REVpuggie

as for a daily driver I'd stick to hatchbacks ( golf, A3, 306/307 , focus , magane ) if you want to peak really low go bigger ...an Espace or Vito could be an option .

over here panda / marbella compete in their own db-drag class . I'm working on one ...turning one into an SQ car.... A few pics if you'll allow me to : accomodating space to run wires through a rubber. made space to house a big battery ( stainless steel housing) full custom doorpanels with a kick driver high up in the door ....and yes thats a stainless steel ring holding the 6.5'kick driver finally the rings for the mids , which i think are uber-sexy ! sorry bout that ... this is a topic about panda's right ?

I think you're missing my point ....but yes that is what it was called .

I hate : bring it on ,highschool musical, dirty dancing ! and their sequals even more or any movie that resembles those *edit* exept for that movie there 2 guys decide to go to cheer-summercamp instead of football-camp , that shot when the arrived at cheer-camp I was like I'd recommend : Taken

interested in results ! a piano finish is difficult to paint , hope you are good painter .

this is starting to look good , still a lot of work though !

this calculation aplies too all ports that are flared ... up to the point where port-compressionbecomes an issue . I was referring to the walls of a port , when air flows close to a surface its will always be turbulent because the air tries to stick to that suface which acts like a cushen and thus makes the effective portarea smaller . the higher the speed of the air the thicker that cushen gets . the less surface there is that the air is to cling to the less turbulence there is close to that suface , the smoother that surface the less turbulent also . That is why I'd try to minimize the number of ports difficult for me to type out this stuff because english is not my native language, hope you all get my point

thats the first time I've read or heard anywhere . aside from the fact that a slotted port has portarea losses in the corners because of the extra turbulence and often doesnt have kerfed ends (what actually alows you to keep the port shorter) , I see no reason why an aeroport would require half the surface-area , ofcourse the inner suface of an slotted port needs to be smoothed to minimize air-turbulence in the port and that is what what a lot of people forget to do .... the way I see it : the purpose of an aeroport defeats itself when you need more than 2 of them , inner-port surface area is key , offcourse if you want to do more than 2 for aesthetic reasons or because you're to lazy to smoothen a slotted port , I've got nothing against it ... both works just fine . oh one more note , I've seen tenth's gained by smoothing an aeroport , so those aren't that smooth eighter (tuning practically did not change) .

on how much power are you planning to achieve this , and how much cabingain does your car have ... , looking at my calculations this should be very possible .

I googled the guy , didn't have a clue ! I can asure you my fishing skills are non-existant ,tried it a few times when i was younger (I'm not that old) always came home emptyhanded

Try the stuff I said

could you post up some pictures of how you made your doors ? and how did you cross the 2 way ? have you tried playing with the righthand kick/mid out of phase ? quite possibly you're lacking output because the kick/mids are not playing at full potential .

thrash the box and build a new one , measure the hole in the baffle and/or see if the woofer fits well ....before you glue it to the rest of the box ! once you've done that you'll never make that same mistake again ! don't take half measures it will only make things worse ! thats the best advice i can give you.

Well , I made my choice . first one to be tested is going to be the tangband W3-1401sd . lets hope it will perform good enough in the top end .. if it doesnt work out I'd might try the Markaudio allpair6 gold round or the Tangband W3-1231SN

a soundstage that is high up on the dash will not be achieved by placing a 3-way in a door , the tweeter and mid will simply be placed too low . tweeter on earheigt on- or of-axis a mid as close a possible to it. dome for off-axis (you'll have to try to let the windshield work in your advantage ) or a cone if on-axis or close , this because cones often have a lower fs and therefore can be crossed lower getting getting an even higher staging and possibly cross outside the range of vocals . a dome has a much better off-axis responce (wider dispersion)

read a few posts of mine back . I'll give finding a suitable driver another shot geussing 18khz would be enough . thanx .

I was off by an inch but yes I can make that work .I've made more difficult things this is about the way it ought to be , maybe I can get an inch here and there to align a little better butt this is pretty much how it will be. thanx .

tweeterpods will be made on "ear height" full on-axis ,mids will be mounted aprox 40cm (15 inch) to center below that at the same distance aprox 30degrees off-axis on the leftside and very near to on-axis on the right side as for limitations ,no problem mounting big faceplate tweeters , I can't (wont) cut up my dashboard , for a good reason : its a one piece dash and I have to move my engine (take out) to get to the bolts its mounted with . dont think the build will be a problem , just a series of challanges I know I dont need any kind of passive equalisation therefore dont need to buy them .... I'll post up a drawing shortly to remove all doubt .

I had hoped on a little more feedback , I apriciate oldschools and M5's input allthough it has not yet really helped .Am I lacking in providing info in any way ? wondering what drivers M5 has got up his sleeve ! are the rest of us (10.000+ members) only focussing on the sub-stage ?

A-pillars are yet to be made , you're right about the pioneer . I assume those sets i've been looking at are not your choise of sets ? edit : I've been working on many other peoples installs for more than 3 years ... I pretty much have to start from scratch ....again

kick/mid , I'd say 8inch max , tweeter/mid up to 3inch maybe 4 could work not sure though, I'll make anything fit if needed . T/A , level and x-over on HU and/or amps , no external processor (pioneer deh-p88rs2) only real requirement I have is that it's 2-way ... I've been thinking about a dedicated kick + small wideband tweet/mid idialy x-ing on 200hz or so ... havent found a real option yet , planning to mount the kick/mid fairly high up so that might not even be necesary I've listened an worked on some systems , all were 7channel setups , morel elate , hertz HSK and soforth , listend to a bunch too , best thing I ever heared was a dynaudio 3way setup on genesis DM amps ... never really did anything with 2-way setups

sorry bout that , yes I'm going active , thought that was obvious/clear .

Very nice place to build , jealous also !

acoustical length : how long you say something is (not necesarely actual length and a very common thing for males to impress females) sorry guys , couldn't control myself

the most obvious advantages are very low group-delay and a phase-shift favourable to normal ported enclosures while output is as good as a normal ported enclosure or better. a good flat response , and deadly accurate , disadvantages are a very steep roll-off, below tuning it very quickly has no powerhandling at all and the box is not by any means small. *edit* glad I could take you down memory lane Thumpper