A.SMALL

If you’re burning alternators up in 45 minutes and the alt wasn’t on it’s last legs then I’m pretty sure it was because of your install and user error. Did you have a volt meter installed? Running that much power without an H/O alternator and a good battery reserve is not something I would recommend to you. I had an AP3000 in my 2006 Galant, Stock 120 alt, Duralast Gold up front, Big 3 done in 4 gauge, and one run of 0 gauge kicker hyperflex ran to the back. On the regular I ran the amp bridged at 4 ohms and had voltage drop into the low 12’s . Of course I could get it to drop lower if I turned up the gain and bass boost but I knew better than that. I have also ran it bridged at 2ohms for about a month on the same electrical and of course voltage drop was hideous IF I RAN IT FULL TILT, but I KNEW ENOUGH to not let it drop too low. I installed another AP3000 in my cousins jeep Cherokee almost 3 years ago and he finally upgraded subs that can take all of the power (Kicker CVX’s) in April. Stock Alt, Durlast Battery up front, and 1 positive run of 0 gauge kicker hyperflex to a Kinetic HC2400 in the rear. We set the gains by ear while keeping an eye on voltage drop and he never drops below 12 volts. If you don't want to pay for a h/o alt and everything else needed to properly support that amp then don't try to run it at full power. Instead use one channel and wire down to 1 ohm, that'll give you 1500 which is plenty for daily. When you get into running larger amps you need to really understand how the whole system works together and it’s limitations or you will damage your equipment and possibly your vehicle. The AP3K is not a bad choice when compared to two 1500's. 9 times out of 10 if someone is having problems with "stability" or "overheating" it isn't the amp at fault but the user and their install. I've had two AP3K's for about 4 years and they have been nothing short of "Reliable" , "Stable not Unstable", "Cool Running not Overheating", "Together no Broken", except for when my cousin rolled his truck and broke the legs off of one of them but it still works flawlessly. Every amplifier as well as other equipment has it's limits and just because you or others try to surpass those limits or are ignorant to what they are don't blame the amp.

And i am not a competitor so i can't speak on using them in competition only from a daily standpoint. From what I have read on other forums it looks like most guys that are competitors frown upon using Audiopipe in daily setups let alone in the lanes lol, but hey to each his own i guess.

I haven't had any experience with the APSM seris but have had plenty of experience with nearly every mono amp in the AP series in the past 4 years so i can only vouch for them. Never had a problem with reliability or amps blowing up in my face like so many people seem to have happen. I've had two AP3000's and a AP1500, no issues except for one DOA i got back in 09 but that was switched out with a new amp no charge through the place i ordered it. I also installed a AP1800, 2 AP1500's, and a AP1000 in friends cars and they all are running fine to this day. One of my AP3000's that i sold to my cousin has been through hell and back (Nearly full tilt for long drives, low voltage, tossed around in a accident when he rolled his jeep in the snow) and still performs like the day i bought it. From what people are saying the APSM's are somewhat better/stronger than the AP's and i love my AP's

This GCON in the top right corner of my screen is beautiful ....

Im pretty sure most old amps wouldn't complain about a solid 14.4 either lol

OK lol i just wanted to be sure i didnt have something messed up somewhere and it wasnt just my amp. So basically, i need another amp to kill/reduce the heat is what im getting? Looks like its time to start saving for the endo i want... Like others said first make sure your install is up to par proper power wire, solid battery and fuse connections at all terminals, good clean ground, and amp settings. Then you can probably draw the conclusion that it’s just the amps nature to run hot like I have from installing and using these amps. You said you never drop below 12 but that is still enough voltage drop to heat an amp like that up with ease. I have the 600.2 and when bridged at 4ohms, with my electrical it never drops below 13.8 from a 14volt start and it still gets a good bit warm after about a half hour of heavy beating, but that’s to be expected. I have wired it down to 1ohm before (its not 1ohm stable of course) and it only takes a couple minutes of high volume bass heavy songs to make the heat sink hot enough to “cook eggs” before it protects, even with very low voltage drop. One difference I believe between a cheap quality and good quality amp is that the designers of the lower quality amps seem to try and squeeze the most power they can out of the already cheap parts used in the amp, pushing them to their limit to do close to rated power. This is how you end up with a cheap amp running very hot and failing quicker than a better quality amp overtime. Most quality amps use internal components that can make the rated power without putting that much stress on the components used, making them able to run cooler and last longer than cheaper amps. I’m not downing our amps in anyway because they serve their purpose when you have realistic expectations of them, but there is much better to be had out there.

Cheap crunch class A/B amp in a hot trunk, ran at 1ohm getting hot enough to burn flesh is normal lol...I have a 600.2 and does the same thing if I beat on it hard.

Had no idea , background on my screen is white and everyone's post have been in black font.

1. If you have dual 2’s your wiring options are .5, 2, or 8 ohms. It would be a lot safer to wire them to 2ohms. 2. Generally speaking larger enclosures tend to be more efficient meaning they usually yield more output around tuning on the same power when all other enclosure aspects are kept equal. 3. Relatively cheap is a relative term. What’s relatively cheap to me might not be relatively cheap to you so stating a specific dollar value or range will help with suggestions for an amp. Regarding the port size you make the port based on the amount of port area your specific woofers need and the desired tuning frequency you want to have.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/47700-options-explained/

Have to agree with Shizzz as far as the KonFused terminals being a PITA. Used a pair on a Kinetic HC2400. Fitting the wire into the compression terminals wasn't fun and the positive terminal would not secure to the battery post at all. Sent it back, got another one, same problem. I personally would choose regular ring terminals over the compression ones but to each his own.

Thanks jj, I'm not sure if those t/s parameters are correct either. According to Dave at MMATS the t/s parameters left their building YEARS ago. But he suggested 4.5 net with 50 square inches of port @ 18 inches long. Im assuming he got the 15 mixed up with the 12 , but either way they are the same enclosure recommendations as the current line. When i asked about the power handling I was told it should be good up to about 1000 watts so those could be correct. Having the correct t/s parameters is not a major concern but would be nice to have. I'm just trying to find as much information about this driver so i know what it is i have in front of me. Anyone know the production run of these models? I found this review from back in 1999 of the 15" Juggernaut by Car Sound & Performance : http://www.carsound....bs/juggrnt.html Im no expert but isn't a bl of 8.9 pretty low for a driver with a "loud" reputation?

Browsing around at a pawn shop around town and i came across this sub hidden in a corner. Owner wanted $90 for it talked him down to $70 lol. So now i'm trying to find any specs or t/s parameters on it just out of curiosity. I have already emailed MMATS. Anyone have any experience with this sub? Im assuming it's rather old by the looks of it.

Only thing i could notice was a small amount of tinsel lead slap while in the sealed enclosure. After removing it and looking it over i saw that two of the leads were somewhat flimsy and kind of flopped around when i free-aired it. Also there are two very small tears on the spider surface where it looks like the two more loose leads had been rubbing against it. I built a 2.3 cubic ft ported enclosure for it tuned to 34Hz with 2 4 inch round ports and it sounds decent. Won't know how good of a condition it is in until i can put real power to it, hopefully i'll be able to hook it up to my cousins AP3000 in the next week or so and see how it performs.

Yea, i tested it in the sealed enclosure it came in on my little crunch 600.2 and it worked. I was suprised at how much excursion i was seeing off that small amount of power, maybe due to the fact that it's old and the suspension is wearing or just because it isn't meant to be sealed? The suspension feels pretty stiff when pressing down on the center of the cone so maybe it's not as worn as i think.

I'm pretty sure they didn't know what they had, the sub was mounted in a small sealed pre-fab enclosure and im sure the shop owners never bothered to take it out and inspect it. I thought it would have dawned on him when he almost broke his back trying to lift the enclosure off the floor! lol

Yea, I see that the newer 12 spoke versions run near $600 new so i figured it had to be a steal for under $100.

Build is crazy mayne, The box came out real nice. If you're in Durham i have to hear this!

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