kirill007

Hij bedoelt of je een grotere alternator geplaatst hebt of extra batterijen. De Fi BL zal zeker luider zijn in de juiste behuizing. He meant to ask if you had a upgraded alternator or extra batteries.

A bigger alternator will not overcharge the current battery, the alternator only puts out the amount of power the load attached to it needs.

Only the songs that clip originally will have clipping in them, he is very carefull about adding distortion/clipping. (if they are clipping it's only slightly) I have a folder with over 500songs of him, and maybe 10 of those have clipping in them.

I agree on it all, although I wouldn't trust most people to tell them they have to use their ears.I've seen too many people turn up the gain way too high in combination with maxing out the headunit and they couldn't hear anything wrong with that. I think that's the kind of people that should use it. You can't even talk sense into them by saying they should use a smaller amp if they don't want to break anything, because someone has told them/they have seen they can handle XXXX amount of watts. Obviously the better solution would be that someone did it for them, but that isn't always possible (in their eyes). You can't idiot proof it though. That is the whole crux of the scenario. Ok, you can as I described before: turn a 1k amp into a 200w, a 5k into a 1k, etc, but then why even bother? That is what is safe and no DD-1, oscope or anything else will get anyone else there. Teach them to listen and there is a solution.Interesting, so the DD-1 or a scope aren't able to set it closer to a safe setting then your ears, that's the point why you shouldn't use the equipment right? (obviously it's not only your ears, but also smell and your eyes to see if they aren't exceeding mechanical limit)Now I know how to explain people that those tools are pretty much worthless.

I agree on it all, although I wouldn't trust most people to tell them they have to use their ears. I've seen too many people turn up the gain way too high in combination with maxing out the headunit and they couldn't hear anything wrong with that. I think that's the kind of people that should use it. You can't even talk sense into them by saying they should use a smaller amp if they don't want to break anything, because someone has told them/they have seen they can handle XXXX amount of watts. Obviously the better solution would be that someone did it for them, but that isn't always possible (in their eyes).

And if you use your ear why is this a problem? Never said using an ear was a static situation. Exactly the reason why you MUST use it. Gain knob on an amplifier is to adjust for the input level from the source. Reaction to the red first: Exactly it's to adjust the input level from the source, doesn't it seem useful to adjust it with a instrument? (obviously you make sure you still have some headroom on the source so you can adjust it up or down according to the song) With the ear it will take quite a while for most, while with this instrument it should only take a few minutes. (which could be helpful for someone who does a lot of installs) Obviously you shouldn't solely rely on it, but if you set it with the DD-1 it should always be a safe setting unless the amp can provide too much power. (please add a other reason why it wouldn't be a safe setting)This seems to be a use of benefit: Wouldn't it be easier for a shop owner to claim it wasn't his fault when he used a DD-1, as long the person doesn't go over the recommended volume/settings nothing wrong will be able to happen.(again, I could be forgetting a reason why it couldn't be a safe setting) I already did. In this post. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/59562-smd-dd1/?p=1002165 That post doesn't say anything about how setting the gain by ear will help you for it to work on all the songs you listen to. It also doesn't state what the gain is designed to do, which is adjusting input level from the source as Sean(///M5) said. So if the gain is made to adjust the input level from the source, that means it's made to be set once and forget about it, right? (which is exactly what you would do by setting it by ear or by DD-1) Obviously there is no perfect gain setting for music, is what I can see in your post. (which I agree) The DD-1 isn't going to give you the perfect gain setting, but it should be able to give you a safe setting, unless you didn't match the amp to the subwoofer properly. As you said yourself, setting the gain by ear is going to be timeconsuming (or atleast more timeconsuming) then setting it with a simple instrument like the DD-1. Obviously you give yourself some play at the headunit so you can control the music and adjust if it's too quiet .(if you set it in a safe way with the DD-1, you should never turn the volume down because it's too loud.) By the way, I set my gains by ear and won't buy a DD-1

So just to play the devils advocate. The DD-1 isn't usefull because after setting the gain the conditions will never be the same again and because you don't listen to 40Hz tones? Also because you'll have to reset the gain after each song? Isn't that exactly the same thing what you would do if you set it by ear? What is the point of having a gain knob on a amplifier? What is it designed to do? (Can someone answer that question? Sean, Impious, Tirefryr,Shizzon,... ?)

I'm pretty sure they just work every day, they have a lot to do. Fi isn't the only company they produce subwoofers for. So if they get a order it get's qued in line with the others.

There must be something wrong if you don't stay in the 13's with that alternator and those amps. Can you measure the voltage at the alternator? Then measure the voltage at the battery and see how much of a difference there is. It's also pretty weird that there is no voltage difference at all from the front to the back.(did you measure with the system on?)

the closest car audio shop is nothing but salesman and ive never been 2 a car audio comp or heard a real system noone around me knows much everything i know ive read on forums online mostly smd You didn't learn anything from smd, I can tell you that. (I guess that's why you got banned, or because you liked to troll.)

Nope. Box tuning is a world of trade-offs. No secret magic that can make you hit those 45-50hz like your old box and also destroy the 30-38hz range. This statement is correct. Except you should tune at wherever you want. But a larger box makes the speaker reach it's mechanical limits with less power than a smaller box. Wherever you want to go. If it was me I would go for 33hz. But that's just my preference. But no matter what, this isn't going to happen. It just isn't. It's the equivalent of saying "I want a car as fast as a Ferrari that I can also use as a moving van that triples as a vehicle to tow my motor home with." If you can't build a box that plays flat to the ear from 30-50 hertz, you are doing something wrong. A bandwith of only 20hz is easy to achieve, the only "trade-off" is that it won't be as peaky which results in a lower peak volume. @ncc74656. Since you seem to like to listen to normal music, and no slowed music, 33hz will be a little low. Eventhough you probably will barely hear any difference with the box tuned to 37hz, I suggest tuning to 37-38Hz. (you get quite a bit of cabin gain on the low end if you are in a car) 100sq inches of port area as swift suggested, is a good one. Since you have a 2.5kW amp, making the box about 6.5cubes big should give you good results. If you can't input the T/S parameters of the SP4, that means you are doing something wrong. (read the manual on how to enter a new driver)

Wake up bigjon, he's using a AP 1500. Your amp would perform even worse at 0.5ohm then at 1 ohm, although I don't know what you mean by perform. (it won't take abuse like this)

So you are giving them 500W combined? How did you get to the conclusion, what math did you use? How big is the box? is it the 4.2cu ft in your sig? (that's a little too much, but even that should make any problems with 500W) Did you double check your wiring? (did you measure it with a DMM to see if it actually is around 4 ohm?) It shouldn't be a gain problem, I don't understand why so many people think that is the problem. (if you set it correctly with the DD1 you should never have problems unless the amp will put out more power then it's rating.) The subwoofers should be able to handle 900W RMS, 1.8kW combined, in a sealed enclosure they should be able to handle 1kW, let alone 500W. I'm pretty sure you are hearing the sub bottoming out, not the dustcap if it's louder than the bass. (can you fit something between the dustcap and the cone? check this properly)

Your explanation was useless, it only works in this scenario. As Shizzon has said, 2 10's with your explanation should have more cone area then 1 18, eventhough that is far from the truth. I don't understand what you get out of calling people math nerds. Some very good advice for you would be to stop typing, untill you know how to talk to people. (it's not because this is the internet that you shouldn't behave properly.)

Too technical? Why, because they know how to do basic math? (finding the surface area of a circle.) Or because he suggested using the sd which is making your life even simpler because you just have to multiply it by the amount of drivers you have.

So why did you start this thread again? Why did you want people to give you advice? I don't know if it's just me, but I only see advice AGAINST the stetsom. See you in 3 weeks asking where the amp is, and 2 months later you ask us why it doesn't sound as loud or why it went up in smoke..

This program does not fix clipping at all

Where are the Sundown and Rockford amp grounded to? Did you change this?

Then get some michelin road 2 or 3 tires, grip in every condition, even in rainy cold conditions. (or any other sporttouring tire) Never had any slips in the dry with temperature to -5°C, unless going crazy in the first corner. What type of "summer" rubber do you have?

I cannot wait until motorcycle season here finally comes. The fact that the motoGP season started last week isn't helping either. Is it snowing in your area? If not I don't see a reason why not to ride.

Please call it a supersport or SS, I always think crotch rocket is a douchebag word. @Dem beats I'm pretty sure he means supersport, it's probably the kawasaki ninja 250 that he's talking about.

How low is low to you? Usually 33hz is too low for a DD9500 to sound good. I wouldn't trust a guy on caraudio.com to design my box, I hope it wasn't cvx 412 or something like that. Has that DD9500 gotten a recone from PSI?

You do have to know that the bass lines are a lot louder then most songs. (coming pretty close to 0 / -1dB.)

He makes sure there is no clipping present in any of his songs. (it is possible that there are a few songs out of hundreds that are clipped but that's only because he couldn't find a non-clipped original version of the song, but even then he tries to 'clean' up the song)