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kirill007

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Posts posted by kirill007

  3. Posted

    4 hours ago, Billy Jack said:

    Well seeing as most of these company's now just use the same off the shelf parts to build most subwoofers it probably want matter. Their is probably what 10 different motors, 10 different cones, spyders, and voice coils used to build dozens of the same woofer with a different company's logo stuck on it.  Same with amps. It's not a coincidence most of these woofers look like cookie cutter versions. Now honestly tell me I'm wrong and fi ain't the same subs as ssa or soundquebed and just a copy of a DD or a number of amps like DC, ampere, and several more ain't the same board with a new case and logo. 

    :lol2:

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  4. Posted

    19 hours ago, Kylar96 said:

    Sorry for your troubles, ive had nothing but a great experiance with Mikes CS. Talk to him almost daily. Ive had around 9 singer alts in the past. None gave me a issue. All bolted right in. He helped over the phone get my dual's up and running, then, at 3am (the morning of a comp) i called him for support on gettin the quad set up running. He answered on the 3rd ring. Ive placed probably 30 alts to him for sale for others, and all of them have loved the product, and support. Sorry your experiance has not been the same.  I wont run any other alt. May try a USAlts here for fun, but, Mike is legit in everyway imho. 

    Then get off the phone, no wonder he doesn't have time left to answer other people. :huh:

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  9. Posted

    If you're on a budget the Moto G is a pretty nice phone for the price ~180 and is probably the best budget friendly unlocked phone out there. If you wanted used, try looking on Swappa.com I've bought 4-5 phones on there with great luck and at great prices.

    That's only if you are tied down to andriod.

    Windows phones are usually faster at the same pricepoint.

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  10. Posted · Edited by kirill007

     

     

    Setting up this sa 12 in my brothers car its in a 2.25 ported box tuned to 34hz. It's in a eclipse . if we get the crossover past 60hz the sub sounds horrible. Should the sa be able to play naturally past that say up to 80 or 90hz?

    Yes, the problem is probably in the gain setting. What amp are you using?
    its a Sundown saz 1500 running @ 2ohm

     

    That's quite a bit of amp for that box and subwoofer, try turning down the gain a bit and then turn the crossover up.

     

    Though I agree with SSH, crossover above 50-60Hz is too high for my taste, it's a SUBwoofer.

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  11. Posted

    Setting up this sa 12 in my brothers car its in a 2.25 ported box tuned to 34hz. It's in a eclipse . if we get the crossover past 60hz the sub sounds horrible. Should the sa be able to play naturally past that say up to 80 or 90hz?

    Yes, the problem is probably in the gain setting. What amp are you using?

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  13. Posted

    If i were you i would just look and ask questions and if you see something you like go home and order it online. You will save a ton of money and have some sort of idea what your actually getting.

    No wonder the good shops are closing down/closed down.

    They pay for the rent, and having things in stock, you ask for their advice and then order it off the internet...

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  16. Posted

     

     

    SoundQubed's box recommendations are so generic they are almost useless. It's up to you to decide what frequency response you desire, but in my opinion the 27 Hz tuning looks much more preferable to the 40 Hz one. I would then size your port to be whatever it needs to to keep port velocities under 320 m/sec.

    20 m/s would be more preferable.
    Of course. The problem I suspect the OP will run into is the balancing act between port area, port length, and tuning. With a low tuning and large port area the port could end up being a mile long, which creates its own problems. Just about every design is compromised in some way. Having a slightly smaller port area will only have a negative effect at max output, which will only be a limited amount of time. If the OP raises the tuning to try to keep the port length reasonable that will effect output at all volume levels.

    The OP's goals for their system will have to determine just where compromises should be made.

     

    True, but if you just make the enclosure larger that makes up for a better you end you can tune higher (and use a few tricks to lower the tuning without increasing the physical length of the port).

    I've built a enclosure recently for my two ten inch JL W6v2, and moddeled it to have a peak air velocity of 21.17m/s around 30Hz at peak power and I noticed while testing that it had port noise at peak power.(not audible from the front seat, but audible from the trunk and that means the port won't behave as predicted, and so the frequency response won't be as predicted)

    From what I understand, and what I've seen with inexperienced box tuners (and those that buy pre-packaged driver/box combos at Best Buy etc), what you run into is a situation where the air resistance or lack of resistance combines with the phase delay of the port's exiting air to create a "vacuum" inside the box during specific points of excursion, increasing the stress on the driver's softparts where at the peak of excursion the driver is "sucked" back into the box with the velocity of air exiting the box.  When the exit velocity is too high, the momentum (mass x velocity) of the mass of air currently exiting the box at the time the driver's cone is extending out creates a high vacuum behind the driver and snaps it back with more force than the driver's cone can handle (like having a sealed box that's too small, but far more intense).  When the exit velocity is too low (port too large), the driver doesn't have enough damping and hits massive over-excursion spikes when the mass of air is accelerating back INTO the box and pushes the driver outwards and there's not enough vacuum behind the cone to prevent over-excursion.  Depending on the tuning, this "spike" in excursion can occur at, above, or below the tuning point of the box and driver depending on how the phase delay responds to the tuning.  Long story short, think of a ported box as an interference engine: air interacting with physical driver just like air/fuel and pistons.  Too much velocity might be perfectly safe for a driver in some cases, or might violently rip the cone from the surround in other cases, since the cone is where the vacuum pressure is being exerted.  Most cases of cone separation you hear about arise from this situation....

    No, what you are noticing isn't actually happening, the inertia of the air is negligible.

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  17. Posted

    SoundQubed's box recommendations are so generic they are almost useless. It's up to you to decide what frequency response you desire, but in my opinion the 27 Hz tuning looks much more preferable to the 40 Hz one. I would then size your port to be whatever it needs to to keep port velocities under 320 m/sec.

    20 m/s would be more preferable.

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  20. Posted

    This thread is like this analogy:

    Customer: I want a Ferrari FXX, is it a good daily driver? Can I put my kids in it?

    Answer: Yes, you could but why not try a Nissan GTR or a BMW M6 or a mercedes CLS63?

    Customer: I don't want any of those brands, I want a Ferrari.

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  22. Posted

     

     

    The recommended specs are there as a range option.  The pre-designed are there for ease for the end user.  The Xcon and Icon will work well in each others suggested enclosure sizing.  Really the one thing you will need to worry about is port area for the Xcon is going to need to be greater than the Icon.  Sorry for any unintended confusion.

     

    ok thanks so then what would kind of numbers would i be looking at for port area for my xcon 10?

     

     

    For the Xcon, I suggest 15.25 sq. inches of port per cube of internal volume.

     

    Per Cube? :(

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