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kirill007

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Posts posted by kirill007


  1. Isn't a good thing for customers to have a wide range to choose from?

    I don't mind more products for the same application as that usually results to lower prices.

    There are so many components that are alike, but does that bother the customer? (it doesn't bother me)


  2. yep, here's another twist to that argument too..

     

    There are many high efficient drivers that are rated for low rms and lower efficient drivers rated for high rms.

    Efficiency doesn't correlate to output capabilities either.

    Don't you mean sensitivity/SPL rating (1w/m or 2.83V/m).

    Efficiency does correlate to output, because efficiency=(Usefull energy/Total energy)*100% . (which in this case is acoustic energy divided by energy put in the driver times 100%)


  3. "Everyone says that you will burn muscle if you do not eat, which has never been proven."

    If they mean that you won't burn muscles if you still have fat, then this statement is true.

    If you have no fat left, only then you will start burning muscle.


  4. Looks like it has experienced some overexcursion.

    I would fix the settings on your amp/HU that caused this before putting in a freshly reconed sub.

    You can send it in to Fi if you want to get it reconed, or order a recone and recone it yourself. (or find someone around you who knows how to do it properly and offer him a beer for it :) )


  5. The tweeter problem is totally their fault.  The connectors are too small to fit in the crossover they included with the tweeters.  I had 2 cut the connectors and replace with bigger ones.

     

    Ok amps my fault I shouldve noticed that the p300.2 is like the only punch with no outputs

    But I did not think that would be something I should check for

    As Ive never seen an amp without outputs  (im young)

    Whats even the point of not including outputs?  save a couple dollars? gtfo.

     

    I had 2 buy a longer bit for my drill 2 fit down the amp holes 2 mount (not so bad but grr)

    Why not use a screwdriver so you will be less likely to damage something?

    Did you call RF to tell them the connectors don't fit? (I would be surprised if they didn't help you out.)


  6. Why would someone need 1/0 wire connector for subwoofers?

    How can the thermocouple benefit the user?

    Basic math using ohms law. current = square root of watts/ohms so for 10,000 watts at one ohm you're looking at 100 amps. There are competitiors running 10's of thousands of watts. The maximum AWG current loads can be googled for different wire sizes.

    A thermocouple can be helpfull for people running more than recommended power, i.e. competitors. Heat causes the glues on coils to loosen causing the magnet wire to unwind. If you know the temp of the coil then you will know if it is safely handling the power being put to it.

    But isn't 0 guage wire a little overkill? Just like the guy above me told 4 guage will be more then enough. If you have a dual coil sub with 2 connectors you usually have 2 8guage wires(or in your case 2 0guage wires), so that's about the same as 1 4guage. I like the idea, i just think it's just useless, because a wire can handle a lot more then it's rating for only a small amount of time.

    Does the thermocouple react fast enough in changes in temperature? (i mean if you want people to use it for SPL, it's usually a short 3s burst where temperature skyrockets, i think that change is only measureable quick enough with a IR-thermometer.)

    Or is it for people who cross RMS rating on a daily basis and want to know how much power they can actually add before the subwoofer breaks? (not every coil is perfectly the same and i don't think it's usefull to add a few watts and not hear any difference.)

    I just see it as a great gadget, but i don't see any use.

    The subwoofer itself looks promising, nice thinking about the design and these type of features.


  7. Would it be too much of a blanket statement to say "If you're using a capacitor, you shouldn't strap your amps"?

    Yes it would. Using a capacitor says nothing about what the person knows about audio.

    Using a capacitor wrong does.

    Four BL's should handle those amps strapped, just make sure you have the electrical to back the amps up or else they will be gone.


  8. Well if you want to keep running it for hours adn will upgrade in the future i don't see why you would get the biggest alternator a company offers.

    Which is 350-400A.(although it would probably be lower for your car.)

    It's cheaper to buy the correct alternator from the first time instead of buying 2.

    Xs power is a good choice in my opinion.


  9. What is your budget to begin with? Singer, Mechman, Ohio Gen, DC power all make great alternators... Personally when it comes to alternators go the absolute biggest you can afford. In the long run you will have more power on tap and not have to keep on upgrading. The only thing I can think of when it comes to your car I've heard of some issues where there are not enough engine RPMs to actually drive a large alt, so you may be out of luck. I would look into the ones listed above to see what they can do for you.

    You can just ask for a bigger pulley and it will have enough RPM if that actually is a problem.

    For 3000W i would suggest a 250amp alternator at least, because it seems normal to me that you'll have a other 2 or 4channel amp for your mids and highs.

    Here are a few questions for you to answer

    -Do you want to be able to run it for hours or only for a short demo?

    -Do you want to upgrade later?

    -How much are you willing to spend?

    -How many batteries do you have or will you have? (i see 2, but which ones?)


  10. I wouldn't choose those klipsch over PA speakers if you want loudness.

    I've had the klipsch RF82, which maybe aren't made for loudness, but im sure they are louder then the ones you listed and even cheap PA systems are louder.

    If you want loud you can look at cerwin vega or JBL.(although i don't know pricing .)

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