jcarter1885

x2, that will be your best bet.

glad you could join us

A yellowtop will never hurt, have you done the big 3 yet?

Glad you could join us

I think a 15" will suit you better.

x2, she gets me a few times also (I swear she stares me in my eyes then I wake up)

Dont use the cap, it will only hurt your system just buy a good secondary battery for your system. Bp Power - This option adds a machined aluminum compression plug to the pole which helps channel all of the air under the dustcap around the coil for better cooling. To aid with this increased airflow we also add 6 axial cooling channels in the top plate. Along with increased thermal capacity comes the addition of an extra spider and a changed spider pack. All of these features increase power handling from 200-500 Watts depending on the application. 


well why dont you go for 2-12" FI SSD's with BP Power and that RF T1500-1bd, just my .02.

Get a dual 2 ohm subwoofer (variety of amps to choose from if the sub has this option) and wire it parallel down to 1 ohms : http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=1&I=22 (picture of how to wire). Dont get that amp, check into Audioque 2200 (audioque.com) or Sundown SAZ-2000D (www.sundownaudio.com, www.soundsolutionsaudio.com)

Im doubting anyone will kill their SAZ-2000D anytime soon as they have only been out for at least a month, refurbs wont be available for some time (which maybe longer than october to at least get one, you might get lucky and find one by October). Well than get 2 SAZ-3500D's and up your budget for them since your a few hundred short (your just making this harder on yourself, whatever you throw at those XCONS they will perform excellent, no need to throw more than their rms at them.

so would 2 runs of 1/0 be enough ... i am going refurbrished n e way ... do you think u would be able to get me 4 2000s refurbed at 375 each? just buy you a SAZ-4500D and call it a day.

tell him to scrape up some more cash and your willing to take the $170 of his hands as a down payment or layaway, tell him "you will hold the products until he gives you the rest and wont sell to anyone else."

ohhh is 1/0 the same thing as 0 gauge wiring? yeah they are the same thing

The specs you had were off a little bit if you want a box tuned to 33Hz, I did one on a Box Tuning Calculator and here are the results: Sub Displacement = 0.28ft^3 / Port Volume = 0.96ft^3 (External) = 15"H x 36"W x 20"D (Port) = 13.5"H x 3.75"W x 21"L / 50.63in^2 (Port Area Range = 45-60in^2) 3.75ft^3 @ 32.89 Hz 1.875ft^3 per sub

yes they did smell whenever i used them not just when i blasted it, they smelt all the time. and i did get a bl with cooling option now just need an amp is the sub a d1 or d2? the pioneers were d4's wired down to 1 ohm, the bl is a d2 Wire the BL in parallel to drop it to 1 ohms, and get a 1 ohm stable amp. thats what i am planning on doing but im not sure what amp would be better to push it, an audioque 1200d or the saz 1000d. I would buy the saz 1500d but im trying to save some money and stick with the 4 gauge power and ground i have installed and the stock alt. Sundown SAZ-1000D and call it a day.

yes they did smell whenever i used them not just when i blasted it, they smelt all the time. and i did get a bl with cooling option now just need an amp is the sub a d1 or d2? the pioneers were d4's wired down to 1 ohm, the bl is a d2 Wire the BL in parallel to drop it to 1 ohms, and get a 1 ohm stable amp.

get an AGM battery charger and charge the battery on a slow trickle charge to the mid 14's but dont let it exceed 14.9volts during charging.

did the battery(ies) come charged? most places send them out charging around 12.7 or 12.8 so you should check them first before putting them in.

I had a dude at a local shop do a temporary fix where he put one speaker wire on each rca end and plugged them into the back of the radio and attached both speaker wires (one for black/white rca, one for red rca) to the antenea by picking up some of the metal prongs tucking the wire under it before pushing the antanea into its adapter, but that only worked for so long. I finally got rid of my noise by upgrading my battery and engine block to car's chassis factory ground wire with 1/0 awg wire (I even had to sand the paint since Saturn didnt do it). I also put those plastic cover over my wires, all grounds and positive too which all helped (no more engine noise which I been having for almost three years. just some of my tricks I know or learned.

What are the rms of those subs or your wont know till you start testing (are these the monsters, or just another line of subs)? Subs look excellent, hopefully 1-15" will be good enough for my 2000D.

My SAZ-2000D is better than yours, naw im just playing but excellent pictures all your came out better than mine.

they r dual 1 ohm and wired parallel. i have a cda 9886 its 4 volts. and no they did not know anything about them so i told em to look it up lol. as for big jobs im not really sure. i only went there to get my cda and my subs put in. they did an ok job. the finish wasnt great but it sounded awesome so i wasnt complaining. i was eventually going to do something with the finish though bcuz it was bothering me. nothing major im just picky i guess. and to duran, if 3/4 is to high then how high should it be set. or how can i figure out how high it should be set. Is each speaker wired in series or parallel? If they are wired in parallel individually then they had you at .25 ohm load, which I doubt the shop was that dumb to do but you never know. If the coils are wired in series and the subs are wired in parallel like the picture below then your fine since is a 1 ohm load. http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=2&I=12

Thats what the remote control is for (as a gain adjuster, if your gain is at 50% on the amplifier the remote will play it from the maximum level of 50% to the minimum level of 50%). The OP was just talking about the bass boost setting on the amplifier it self.

I honestly dont think they can take no more than 800 rms personally especially with that hard plastic cone, I had a pair on a 2000rms amp also but never came close to blowing them. But anytime I was playing full tilt (where my settings were at before clipping, each sub seeing 750-800rms) or close to it, I could hear the plastic cone thumping and the sub bottoming out plus it would play any louder after a certain volume. I noticed that alot about subs that have a plastic cone, they distort more when you get close or to their rms potential. just my experience with them

ok, I appreciate ya I was on their website and didnt find them anywhere; Im guessing I'll have to email them about them.