jcarter1885

true, true......

yeah just get the 12" BL's in Dual 1 ohm (wire each sub in series to 2ohms, when added together they will drop down to a 1 ohm load),now go get the 2000D.

Id say copy and just make yours louder and sound better thant your friends, every car is different.

What will be the price on the SAX100.4 once the sale is over, hopefully I can scrap up some funds today. Why not ending tomorrow?

Sundown SAZ-2000D FTW! Now for my understanding on caps, most people on this forum rule against caps because they dont make power (only store power and can be bad for your electrical system). They would reccomend and me also to get a good starting battery and secondary battery by the amp or wherever you can put it because your trying to power your system and in order to do that you must buy something that makes power. Only batteries make power so they will be your best bet (xs power, deka, kinetik, shuriken, optima, stinger etc.). You probably wont need to upgrade your alternator if you stick with an amp under 2500 rms as long as you have good voltage from your batteries while playing at close to or full tilt. If you let your h/o alternator run do lower than the voltage it is regulated for then thats when your in trouble. There really is know way to over do your electrical, its better to be safe than sorry. if im wrong someone will correct me.

glad you could join us. whats your budget for subs, amp? what else will be in the system (head unit, front stage speakers, electrical wise)?

box is getting their, how was the popeyes.

welcome, show pics of system when you get a chance.

glad you could join us

glad you could join us

If i were to see that on a sub, I would be scared to see what it would to my car or what other huge components the sub will have on it (motor, coils and etc.) appreciate the sharing

purchased another sundown audio piece of great equipment the SAX125.2 a few days before the sale was over. Thanks Jacob

That wont work since you said in your other post that you bought dual 2 ohm subwoofers so you will have them wired in parellel @ 1ohm on each amplifier or in series @ 4 ohms on each amplifier. Just wire one in series to 4 ohms on one amp and the same for the other sub and amp. This will help your electrical out and when you get your alternator all you have to do is hook up the rca to strap the amps and your good to go, no taking subs out and rewiring them or anything.

yeah they make alot of car audio equipment (wondered on their site awhile back somehow) http://adassaaudio.co.uk/home.html

slacking... someone offered to buy the truck complete with stereo... for a decent price... so I'm mulling it over should be picking up the new SPL car tomorrow! man thats great news, not just the the setup but the whole car (very impressive because that lets you know someone admired all your hard work. I would say sell and start over because its not like you cant make another SPL car and hopefully louder than where your at now. good luck on whatever decision you make

you can look at their amps on the ssa's store or sundown audio.com The Sundown Sax 50.4 does 80 x 4 @ 2 ohms (plus some) and the Sundown Sax 100.4 does 160 x 4 @ 2 ohms (plus some).

your first post said that you want sound quality while staying loud, thats exactly what the Xcons will give you (great sound quality while being able to get loud). Im thinking you just want to be loud ass balls like a bright yellow shirt on a sunny day.

Either way it wont matter since you will be giving both speakers the same power either way, usually it would matter if you run them at 1 ohm or 2 ohms (since a lower ohm load = equals lower power and less strain on the vehicles voltage) but in this case you will be bridging at its ohm load stability also so I think it will be an even call. It just boils down to personal preference. Sorry jay-cee your incorrect. lower ohm load = a higher strain on your electrical system. you loose efficiency as the ohm load goes down there fore your amplifier requires more amperage. Its solely dependent on the amp if you can run it at .5ohms some can some cant. In my opinion i wouldn't run an amp below rated specs unless your aware of the the harm you can do and willing to live with the out come. For a daily situation you'll be far better off at 1ohm and that would be the best advice i can give you. I meant either way he wired the subs up 1600 x 2 @ 1ohm or 3200 x 1 @ 1ohm it would be the same, I didnt even answer the question about wiring it for .5 ohm load, I only did that too one amp (memphis power reference 1000.1 just to see how long it would last for and it did for almost a year) and I didnt even know thats how I let a local shop do it awhile back. Vowed to never let them do my work again, but I would never recommend anybody to run a amp below its ohm stability unless you wanna kill your amp eventually and cause a lot of strain on your electrical. That amp is a two channel amp. It can handle 1600 X 2 @ 1ohm, 3200 X 1 @ 2 ohms but not 3200 X 1 @ 1 ohm. your absolutely right, I even read that post three times over before I posted it and couldnt see a mistake since they took my words wrong in the one before it, but yeah thats what I meant.

well in some cases power is power it just really depends on the quality of the amplifier your have to start out with (well hifonics is known to put out power and so many say their underrated so their 400 can be around 320 or a little more). While companies like Sundown will give you real power and rate at 400 rms but give you more than that and add some more sound quality to your overall system also. I will say that you will get upgrades by switching to a better quality amp whether its power or sound qualtiy and most times both. A dude on this forum did a review between a kicker amp and sundown amp that he swtiched out for his midrange and he still got more power and better quality, so in my opinion Sundown Audio FTW!

Whats Up

Do you have enough room to just double baffle the whole box? Unless you dont want to take it back to Home Depot and can only use one layer around the box(except for baffle) then I would just brace it for more support.

either go both sub and port back, port up and sub up, port back and sub up unless you have a skihole in your seats. we cant really suggest the best placement since we dont have your car but if someone who did could chime in otherwise its just a toss up. plus wood is the cheapest thing in an install so building a box wont set you back if you dont like it or it doesnt sound good unless you pay someone to build it for you(local shops that charge $200 or better).

push done on cone and see if their is a nasty sound or does it move freely? do the same test you did with your amp to your sub, take it in the house and wire it a high ohm load and play it on a home stereo at low volume to see if it works; but if the home speaker worked on the amp and the sub doesnt then I think its something going on wit the subwoofer.

a voltmeter will always help you out, it never hurts to know your voltage unless your gonna get out your car and go test your batteries and amps every few minutes. a very small and safe investment. have you looked into h/o alternator for your car.

well if strapping them at 2 ohms is the safest way then i guess that is the way to do it.... how will the subs be wired to the amps? wire them in series to 4 ohms each and when added together they should drop down to a 2 ohm final load.