jcarter1885

Thats the best advice and all the advice you will need, by SecondSkin dampening FTW!

x2, Sundown SAZ-1000D

Thats the same reason why I get Kicker wire because of the twisted strands, make installing easier.

Either way it wont matter since you will be giving both speakers the same power either way, usually it would matter if you run them at 1 ohm or 2 ohms (since a lower ohm load = equals lower power and less strain on the vehicles voltage) but in this case you will be bridging at its ohm load stability also so I think it will be an even call. It just boils down to personal preference. Sorry jay-cee your incorrect. lower ohm load = a higher strain on your electrical system. you loose efficiency as the ohm load goes down there fore your amplifier requires more amperage. Its solely dependent on the amp if you can run it at .5ohms some can some cant. In my opinion i wouldn't run an amp below rated specs unless your aware of the the harm you can do and willing to live with the out come. For a daily situation you'll be far better off at 1ohm and that would be the best advice i can give you. I meant either way he wired the subs up 1600 x 2 @ 1ohm or 3200 x 1 @ 1ohm it would be the same, I didnt even answer the question about wiring it for .5 ohm load, I only did that too one amp (memphis power reference 1000.1 just to see how long it would last for and it did for almost a year) and I didnt even know thats how I let a local shop do it awhile back. Vowed to never let them do my work again, but I would never recommend anybody to run a amp below its ohm stability unless you wanna kill your amp eventually and cause a lot of strain on your electrical.

yeah I thought it looked like a clash between a standard slot ported enclosure with a t-line enclosure, very impressive. how are those arm rest amp racks working out for ya?

so whats the game plan now?

Either way it wont matter since you will be giving both speakers the same power either way, usually it would matter if you run them at 1 ohm or 2 ohms (since a lower ohm load = equals lower power and less strain on the vehicles voltage) but in this case you will be bridging at its ohm load stability also so I think it will be an even call. It just boils down to personal preference.

haha good lookin out definately don't want to abuse that amp like i do my 250 very good and useful information thats why my Saz-2000d is still boxed up. It's misinformation. yeah in your case running that 2000d at 4ohms and low gains and volume would be ok, but im at 1.3334 ohms all day and dont feel like rewiring three subs, thats why in my case I looked at it as good info considering I only have stock battery, stock alternator and two amps for mids and tweets already.

Yeah it doesnt matter how long it is(the shorter the better), but yeah change it to 1/0 gauge and it will even do your system more justice. Change the ground wire from your alternator to engineblock/cars frame or engine block to cars frame to 1/0 gauge and it will help also. Upgrading your power wire to 1/0 gauge will be the last step and as beneficial also.

yeah we were just joking for your situation (but for some people who dont know that those values must be thrown into the equation when building a ported enclsosure).

haha good lookin out definately don't want to abuse that amp like i do my 250 very good and useful information thats why my Saz-2000d is still boxed up.

It had a huge signifigance on the heat, what else did you do besides switch out the ground for the amp if nothing(then that should answer your own question for ya). As long as the wire is the same size as the power wire in the amp or bigger your cool. What size power wire did you have compared to the ground wire at first and the ground wire you have now?

x2 thats what you should of did from go since they do have the same rms no matter what ohm load and their is no stability at 1 ohm.

do you think that if he turns the sub sonic filter off it will benefit him or no really matter? I am currently running my 3-12" cvx's(1.3333 ohm load) to my profile ap1200 (2 x300 @2ohms, 1x600@4ohms and I know its a bad idea dont really care about those amps since they will be replaced soon) and do not run into that problem no matter how much power I through at them. But the amp does not have SubsonicFilter on it? I also ran a Memphis at .5 ohm load (2-12"' cvx's) and didnt have that problem neither, even while the amp died on me a year later. So could it be some type of technology that JL audio has since I've never ran into this problem myself?

yeah me neither since I never paid attention to them (just ran the cursor over them and it stated vote post up/down).

really? i thought that played a large role. like i thought if it was 90db sensitive and u had 2 it would be 93 and then you double the wattage each time and that increases the db by 3 ... then if u have a hatch it adds around 16db Now I dont know about that one especially gaining 16db's by what car your using (I do know that hatches put up great numbers). If Im wrong and they do then tomorrow I will be buying one and Im pretty sure everyone else would have one too(at least for a competition car).

well its bad that you dont have an adjustable subsonic filter but in your case your good since it is set a few Hz below your box tuning and not at20 or 25Hz like most fixed subsonic filters. whats the actual measurements of your box: outside (d x w x h) port (l x w x h) and is there any bracing inside the box, what size mdf was used? Also turn your subsonic filter off and see if it is still doing the slapping or popping noise at volume 20-22.

voting for your post

even though i know the setup was completely different done by different installers using completely different products. But was the difference in how the system sounded just by turning the subs around (I know you will get less truck rattle that way and more output by facing subs into cabin). I did this process in a room where I had some good speakers in a box where I would place the speakers facing the wall almost 2-4 inches off the wall compared to flipping the box around where they were playing to the open area with no wall blocking. In my opinion the subs hit deeper and harder facing the wall, im guessing since they were bouncing off the wall giving it that extra boost. When I flipped the box around to the open area the bass was much louder and not as deep. I thought that it was only good to flip a box around in a car if your seats had a skihole in them or does he leave his seats down all the time? I was gonna say would the seats block the output but it would block the same output no matter which way the box was turned.

Im guessing cause he has some more tricks up his sleeve, maybe even a bigger customization and install into a bigger car or SUV.

first suggestion, dont run a subwoofer's ohm load under what the amp can handle; your not harming your woofer more than your harming your amp. Take the sub out and examine the wiring (connection) and the tinsel lead (could be slapping). Cover up the port whole and play the system and see if you still here the popping noise. even though I dont think that small amount of power and running the amp passed its ohm load would hurt the sub, dont be alarmed if it does in some way. maybe someone will chime in with better info than me.

maybe if your building your box tall or deep enough you can sit the subs on top of the box and do a crx style box with the port at the back of the box on the bottom. just a suggestion

and the sub woofers displacement also lol and bracing. x2

Go ahead and use a 1/0 or 2 awg wire for the wire leaving the battery and fuse to the distribution block. Use the 4 gauge you took out and put that on your second amp. Keep your non-fused distribution block, you will be ok with a non-fused one just make sure upgrade the fuse that's 8" from the battery with at least a 150ANL.

Upgrading your cars wire to 1/0 gauge will help with the voltage alot especially just by upgrading the two ground wires only(I went from starting at 14.0-14.1volts when my car started to 14.5-14.7v whenever I start my car depending on the temperature outside after just upgrading my ground wires only). I would use around a 150 anl fuse for your power wire, maybe not that big since you will be running the amp at 2 ohms but someone else may chime in if they feel differently about the size of anl fusing. are you sure 150amp? i though after 120 amps 4gauge wire starts to heat up depending on what the wire is! also maybe do the BIG 3 jsut b/c it helps out with everything in your car! I meant if he used a distribution block (one in and one out) by the battery under the hood, thats why I recommended a 150ANL fuse not for each amp seperatly.