jcarter1885

where u at when i need you jacob

lol x2 my buddy just blew his sub for the 4th time in a row cuz of this "wonder knob" he finally believed me after his sponsor rep flipped out on him and made him promise to keep it all the way off yeah i have been trying to get my friend to back off of it and just get a more powerful amp, just from previous experience it makes the amp work harder, get hotter and clip easier. why waste money and equipment.

It's July. My fault I meant all of July, glad you said something because i didnt even flip my calender over yet it still was on June.

this sell will last all june or when you decide to stop it. thanks for saving me some money, sax-100.4 will be purchased by next week at the latest. keep up the good prices, great products and excellent customer service.

thats what im talking about Jacob, way to brighten up my holiday with excellent news.

very nice and beefy mids, looks like kicker. whats the model number, oh yeah dont let the 3000d scare you i know its a beast (I bet it makes those subs come to life).

Because I bought all the 8 ohms first and had another idea to add a third amp. With the addition of tweeters, I would have two extra channels so i bought the 4 ohms version to play on two channels and dropped down to 2 ohms. I didnt plan on it but it just happened. I didnt buy it for a three way system and I will be buying some true midbass speakers and they wont be on an amp, the mli-65 will be on my factory speaker wires. I've read what you wrote looked at a manual and even another topic about this earlier in the sundown thread and Im still a little bit confused. 2-Channel Amp Set @ Low Pass (x10 setting turned up to 5,000Hz) Subsonic Filter @ 80 Hz or higher (how will you be able to tell if its at 80 since their is no number on the dial, just about a third of a turn up or a tad bit more) Is this correct? 4-Channel Amp CH 1&2-Tweeters Set @ High Pass (x10 setting turned up to 5,000 Hz) Is this correct? Do I touch sub sonic filter for this setting? CH 3&4-Mid Range Set @ Low Pass (x10 setting turned up to 5,000Hz) Subsonic Filter @ 80 Hz or higher (how will you be able to tell if its at 80 since their is no number on the dial, just about a third of a turn up or a tad bit more) Is this correct? Now what about the the 12db and 24 db setting? Leave those on 12 db? Thanks

bump, level 3's or 4's for direct swap in 6.4FT^3 @ 30 Hz wired at 1.34 ohms on a saz-2000d

electrical updates, wiring updates and any installing accessories you may need. Or just use the money for gas so you can ride around and fine tune your sytem or enjoy it, it should take about that long and that amount of gas.

Wiring a head unit when sitting at a red light. Changing a friends headunit settings to what u like for the short ride. ^^^^X2 Personal Experiences: You always drive your car to the club or out of town when their are already two cars going just so you can hear your system. You get an ebay account cancelled because you committed to buying something but dont buy it because you find something 2 seconds later that you want more. Then open another account after making a second email address with a different email provider to get that account closed also. When you and your install buddy call researching car audio as being in the lab. While working at a movie theatre your cutting holes in your door panels, adjusting amps, rewiring audio equipment or the best of all when your manager goes into the stock room and see's a busted 12" Kicker Cvx sitting their and goes straight to you and ask what is this doing here. Working on my car in Dallas, Texas and Tallahassee, Florida's 100 degree summer days to sweat all over your equipment and now have rust marks on your amp becaause you werent finished in time to wipe it off. When your doors panels and back seat cushion is on top of your car while your inside working on it and you have all doors open so air can get in and nobody can park next to you while you work. Waking up with cuts on your arms, fingers and legs from working on your car the nite before but dont remember how it happened. When you spend everyday out in your car working on it but have nothing to fix, just visulizing future upgrades. When you have been unemployed for over a year and a half and spent every day at least two hours a day on a forum researching about cars, engines, batteries, electrical stuff, etc. to make your system perform better. Blowing a 2 channel amp that can only be bridged to 4 ohms and you have it at 1.34 ohms so you can see how your subs sound before you purchased an amp and still waiting on the amp to get here(january till now) When your car has been at the shop getting fixed for ove 9 months and your their everyday not to bug the mechanic but asking him to let you work on and he fix other cars till your done fixing what you need. Dont talk to people while driving because you want to jam and you dont let others talk on the phone neither. Buy one O2 audio mid-range speaker for $150 and only used it a few weeks.

oh yeah just wanted to know what you have your Levels(- or + #) & Frequencies(Hz) @: Bass, Middle & Treble. whenever you get a chance fill me in appreciate ya.

well get the sundown and find some other things you need to complete the setup with the leftover $100. my .02

appreciate ya for all the answers and help that you provided today. I decided to get the two capacitors for my mid-range speakers in the rear deck (up to 3,000Hz), let me know how much you will charge me and we can get this show on the road. I also decided to upgrade all my tweeters to Kicker 08KS25 to have the extra crossover for my protection, plus the ohm load and rms was around what I was looking for. Again thanks B.

everytime I get a chance to see DC subs in action it makes me want some myself. Great rebuild, after watching your video I want a wall now since rebuilding it doesnt look that bad just tear down the front half where the subs are. sell those sundown saz-1500d and get two sundown saz-3500d for more db, naw just playing but keep tweaking the system and it will get better.

yes it does help and im glad u responded so im gonna go change some settings now. the only thing that still kinda confuses me is if i set my bass level at 4 and 40 hz will it damage my mids and tweeters cuz i notice when i adjust it that it controls all speakers. So trying to understand how does each setting on the radio affect each speaker individually (midrange, subs and tweeters).

For an saz-2000d, sax-100.4 and sax-125.2 should I go with option one or two. Option #1- Stock Battery & 2 Deka Intimidators 9A31(or will I just need one 9A31) Option #2- Deka Intimidator 9A34 & Deka Intimidator 9A31 Thankx.

Duran, how do you charge your batteries being their in the spare tire well or do they not need to be charged often (depends on playing time and abuse) and how did you mount them on their sides (what did you use). Because I know their not just sitting their, if so wouldnt speed bumps, potholes or dips in the road cause worrying.

I was planning on getting three to direct swap with my kicker cvx's, so they will be wired at 1.34 ohms. I dont want to get level 4's and underpower them.

This is a very creative and intelligent design, its great to see people go the extra yard for car audio. Doors are lovely, amp rack and box are impressive; but a feature I love most is the opening of the rear window to keep amps & processors cool even if they thought about getting warm.

Could you possibly take a picture and show me how you have your batteries mounted because Im looking for ideas and the only places I came up with is the spare tire well (spare tire gone) but then I was wondering how I would chare them being that my box is on top of the batteries. The other spot is beside the box above the rear tires in the corner by the trunk opening. Should I keep my stock battery and get one or two deka 31's; get rid of stock battery and replace it with a deka 9a34 and get just one deka 9a31, appreciate it Duran? i'm in the same situation as you man it's sketchy (the stock alt and all), only difference being that 2500 watts will be the most i'll be putting in, and like i said i'm keeping my stock alt and will be running 2 optima yellowtops front and rear, the big 3 done in all 0/1, and a stinger 5 farad cap...i know a lot of people say caps are useless but i've done my research and i know it'll help me in my situation.. have you considered optima batteries? theyre not much more expensive than those deka batteries and you can probably find a place near you that sells them rather than paying shipping on a battery.. just my two sense..don't stone me haha yeah i used to have an optima battery but from my understanding price is going up and quality is going down on their products. I vouched to never use their products again since one of their batteries started to leak on me. but i do appreciate the input, plus dekas are cheaper and better numbers oh damn... just like everything else thats once good..quality down price up...i'd probably go with the deka also its just that i'm getting the optimas from a car audio place near me so i might have a little warranty or something and if something was to happen like that my buddy there would probably help me out.. plus i might get them a little less than msrp yeah thats a bet, I would go optima's too; kinda like an allday everyday warranty. I know your probably convinced on getting the capacitor but I do suggest to not get it, but to each its own. After reading that you said you were going to get one I researched on way people have pulled away from these past few years and I can understand. read http://www.isyougeekedup.com/car-audio-capacitors-are-a-waste-of-money/http://www.isyougeekedup.com/car-audio-capacitors-are-a-waste-of-money/ just my .02

Could you possibly take a picture and show me how you have your batteries mounted because Im looking for ideas and the only places I came up with is the spare tire well (spare tire gone) but then I was wondering how I would chare them being that my box is on top of the batteries. The other spot is beside the box above the rear tires in the corner by the trunk opening. Should I keep my stock battery and get one or two deka 31's; get rid of stock battery and replace it with a deka 9a34 and get just one deka 9a31, appreciate it Duran? i'm in the same situation as you man it's sketchy (the stock alt and all), only difference being that 2500 watts will be the most i'll be putting in, and like i said i'm keeping my stock alt and will be running 2 optima yellowtops front and rear, the big 3 done in all 0/1, and a stinger 5 farad cap...i know a lot of people say caps are useless but i've done my research and i know it'll help me in my situation.. have you considered optima batteries? theyre not much more expensive than those deka batteries and you can probably find a place near you that sells them rather than paying shipping on a battery.. just my two sense..don't stone me haha yeah i used to have an optima battery but from my understanding price is going up and quality is going down on their products. I vouched to never use their products again since one of their batteries started to leak on me. but i do appreciate the input, plus dekas are cheaper and better numbers

well naw they are not really that expensive considering what you will pay for a kicker, rockford fostgate, cadence or jl audio. just my .02

good video, got me interested in switching my cvx's out for these

I have a stock 90 amp alternator, and battery with 2 Deka 9A31's in the spare tire well running an SAZ-3000D and an SAX-100.4 with NO issues at all Could you possibly take a picture and show me how you have your batteries mounted because Im looking for ideas and the only places I came up with is the spare tire well (spare tire gone) but then I was wondering how I would chare them being that my box is on top of the batteries. The other spot is beside the box above the rear tires in the corner by the trunk opening. Should I keep my stock battery and get one or two deka 31's; get rid of stock battery and replace it with a deka 9a34 and get just one deka 9a31, appreciate it Duran?

I knew the end of June was to good to be true, not complaining at all; they say you have to wait long periods of time before great things come (patience is key my friend). Jacob Im gettting confused on all the batteries gimmicks and wattage claims, I know every install has its variables and after researching for batteries so I will be able to power my setup(close to 3000 Rms, stock 105A alternator for now, Big Three done in 1/0 gauge) I have not went anywhere but in a circle. What do you go by when trying to decide on a car battery for car audio (CCA, CA, AH, Reserve Capacity or just the biggest battery that you can get)? Considering I will be using my system for daily driving and continuos playing at high levels only on the highway or open road where I cant be a disturbance to others. I know CCA, CA dont play a role in car audio applications but from my understanding AH and Reserve Capacity do; if my alternator wont quit on me or I wont be playing my music with my car off alot how will they come in handy for me? Im looking at a lot of options for now and want honesty (price is not an issue but I dont want to break the wallet because of biased opionions). I know XS Power is like the Ferarri or Bentley of batteries but I dont have to have them if there are equally performance products that are comparable. Option 1- Shuriken BT-80 & Shuriken BT-120 Option 2- XS Power D2400 & XS Power D3100 Option 3- Stock Battery & Deka Intimidators 9A31 (2 of them) Option 4- Deka Intimidator 9A31 & 9A34 Option 5- Stock & Kinetik HC3800 Option 6- Xstatic Batcap 2000s (2 of them) Option 7- Stock Battery & Batcap 4000 Please rate these options from best to worst (honesty please everybody and opinions are welcomed), thankx.