jcarter1885

on my highs amp, im running the power wire as 8 gauge and the ground wire as 4 gauge(i was told this was ok by a friend and professional installer). im not doubting his credibility, i just wanted to know what are the advantages and disadvantages if there are any to wiring your amps this way

M5, should i place a washer between the ring terminals and the car's frame or should the ring terminals touch the frame itself or it doesnt matter. last question appreciate it.

to reduce wires, i was thinking about running just one battery and wanted to know if one xs powermaster d3100 can push 3000 rms(give or take a little) plus a 105 amp alternator and alarm or should i stick with a d5100 and d2400. appreciate the info xspower

M5, Yeah currently i have no amp for my subs, there just riding with me for the health. i just got done working on the car and still sweating as im typing but drinking plenty of water in the texas heat. right now i have a 4 gauge wire from the positive terminal going to a dual output ditribution block with a 100a fuse on each side with 4 gauge wire going to each amps positive terminal. i just also sanded down the seat bolt and frame, then cleaned it with degreaser. I ran one 4 gauge ground wire from each amps ground/negative terminal to the frame where i placed a washer down the two wire rings held down by a bolt with a washer tightened into the seat bolt frame, is this a sufficient ground????? If im running an epic-160 and kenwood kdc-x492 in my dash and i wanna change the ground up on them from a 18 gague wire, what should i go with. They both have an 18 gauge wire for the ground going into a 16-14 connector or bigger if need be, but whats the biggest size wire i should use on the other end of the connector going to the cars frame or kick panel???? appreciate it the info, your very helpful.

Thanks KU40

i like the new vibe coming from this forum, good job on the new look

M5, If im running an epic-160 and kenwood kdc-x492 in my dash and i wanna change the ground up on them from a 18 gague wire, what should i go with. They both have an 18 gauge wire for the ground going into a 16-14 connector or bigger if need be, but whats the biggest size wire i should use on the other end of the connector going to the cars frame or kick panel. appreciate it the info, your very helpful

the profile ap1040 is the 4 channel amp, its setup: ch. 1 (2 boss audio tweeters @ 2ohms) ch.2 (2 boss audio tweeters @ 2ohms) ch.3 (2 eminence alpha 6c @ 2ohms) ch.4 (2 eminence alpha 6c @ 2 ohms) the profile ap1200 is the 2 channel amp, its setup: ch.1 (4 eminence alpha 6a @ 2ohms) ch.2 (4 eminence alpha 6a @ 2ohms) after i read what ku40 wrote, i went and did some research and the web site said 8 gauge would be good enough with the amount of power im using. the amps biggest power and ground terminals are 4 gauge so does that mean i should upgrade to 4 gauge.

Well in my case I drive a 2003 saturn ion and my main(starting) battery is in the trunk, where i will also placing my secondary battery at. The distance between the two postitive terminals on each battery will be less 2 ft. so would i still have to throw two fuses in between that small distance. appreciate the info

I definantly appreciate ya and will stick with the 8 gauge wire for the ground and power wires. I had the amps wired with both wires as 8 gauge and after i changed the ground wire to a 4 gauge i did notice how tacky it looked.

everyday i hear or see the ups man i just think of him stopping and dropping off my saz-2000d, i cant wait theres just too much anticipation

go to soundsolutionsaudio.com and go to the shop, click on amplifiers and then click on sundown and the rest is history

The tweeters are 4ohms, 50-100 rms, 5-20,000hz. The midranges are 4 ohms, 100 rms, 81-5,500hz. Yeah just those two channels with the combination of mid and tweeter were set at 1,200hz, the other two channels were high passed at 150hz. i switched a pair of tweeters that were wired to my factory speaker wire with those mid-ranges, now the first two channels are a pair of tweeters each (high passed at 1,200hz until i get a better amp with a higher frequency range).i do appreciate the input and the sound quality is completely better, the tweeters could be better but need another amp. now that i got this input, i will have no problem tweaking the 50.4 with my setup. thanks for .02

i will be running 6-eminence alpha-6c's(4ohms,100rms) and 2-boss audio tweeters tw12(4ohms,50-75rms) and im confused as to which 4-channel amp to get considering the 50.4 looks as if it only has the hpf going up tp 3,000hz on two channels only and wondering if im reading it wrong. is the 100.4 the same as well or is their a special way to use the 50.4 in my application. two channels will have two eminence's on them each and the other two channels will have one eminence and boss tweeter each. if i get the 50.4, channel 1&2 will be dedicated to eminence and boss tweeter, while im confused on how to run the two eminence setup on channel 3&4 with the hpf only going to a certain range.

maan im definantly going to make a trip to come and listen to the van, a bad ass build. two thumbs way up

well right now on my profile ap1040 amp, i currently run on two channels (one eminence 6.5" and one boss tweeter combination) all ran on the hpf at 1.2k hz cuz thats the highest frequency range on that amp but my tweeters have bass blockers on them. so should i switch that up have on ch. 1 both tweeters and ch. 2 both eminence's, appreciate the help

well right now on my profile ap1040 amp, i currently run on two channels (one eminence 6.5" and one boss tweeter combination) all ran on the hpf at 1.2k hz cuz thats the highest frequency range on that amp but my tweeters have bass blockers on them. so should i switch that up have on ch. 1 both tweeters and ch. 2 both eminence's, appreciate the help

I would love to come and get my system metered on the TL, im waiting to get my sundown saz-2000d. i stay in arlington, plus i wouldnt mind hearing your system also

i was thinking of getting 2-xs power d5100 or a deka battery as my primary and the xs power d2400 as the secondary battery. i also thought of a deka battery as my primary battery and the xs power 5100 as my secondary battery but not sure since it says that it does 3000watts if used as a secondary battery and i was wondering if that would be pushing it since im not familiar to how you guys batteries work in reference to power they are fulfilling.

no problem at all

now that i read that section on xmax and output i have decided to keep my cvx's since i heard them on three different amps and i love the performance. ive heard them on 1200 watts or so in a smaller box(my car audio partners car) and they were doing a low to mid 140 db's and he was scared to crank it. so after i get the sundown i will see how they treat me and go from there, i guess i could upgrade the electrical also(thats a must). appreciate the info and thank everyone who gave their .02

there are no fuses on the amp, you will have to run a 200A fuse in-line from the battery to the amps (12v+) power terminal

I couldnt agree with you more because my kicker cvx's have been underpowered since i had them, they have not seen no more than 700 watts rms and i love the way they sound but from previous experience with kicker i just know that when they do get louder and get the right amount of power they do start to lose their crispness plus i feel its finally time to step away from the mainstream car audio. i went to mtx audio website about a year ago and seen their Vd calculator, where they multiply the x-max and Sd of a sub together. i have been comparing a subs Vd lately when deciding which sub or subs would be louder, is this a good calculation to go by (i do not that every install has it variables and is totally install dependent). i love to get an 18" sub cuz its just something about them but ssa recommends at least 7-8ft^3 for the xcon to shine, so if i can only give it 6.1ft^3 i should either keep my 12" setup or get the two 15" Icons(is 30Hz port tuning good for these subs). How do the Icons compare or contrast with Fi Car Audio Q subs, cuz when i rely on the VD calculator it says the Q's would do better and i do understand that its not true accurate measurement or fact just going with what i have seen. If i am wrong about comparing a subs VD as one chaacteristic of getting a sub then please inform me, i appreciate it. Mark is running his pair of 18's in approx 12 cubes, so 6.1 is fine for a single 18, but we don't suggest going any smaller. If you want to go with the single Xcon 18, go for it. And 30hz tuning is great for all three of our subs. The Icon/Q contrast has been made a bunch of times. What is comes down to is two different ways at reaching a very similar result. The Q will have a slight advantage sealed, and the Icon slight advantage ported (that is not speaking in terms of db numbers on the TermLab, it is in reference to the specs of the drivers themselves). The Q does have the excursion advantage over the Icon, either way Icon or Q, you are getting an excellent sounding sub woofer made here in the USA. You should read Neil's topic in the Advanced Topics section about Xmax and output. i searched for neils topic and couldnt find it, but ill keep looking for it. i see u do combo sales with the xcon and the saz-1500d, in my case would a saz-2000d be to much for the 18" xcon.

I couldnt agree with you more because my kicker cvx's have been underpowered since i had them, they have not seen no more than 700 watts rms and i love the way they sound but from previous experience with kicker i just know that when they do get louder and get the right amount of power they do start to lose their crispness plus i feel its finally time to step away from the mainstream car audio. i went to mtx audio website about a year ago and seen their Vd calculator, where they multiply the x-max and Sd of a sub together. i have been comparing a subs Vd lately when deciding which sub or subs would be louder, is this a good calculation to go by (i do not that every install has it variables and is totally install dependent). i love to get an 18" sub cuz its just something about them but ssa recommends at least 7-8ft^3 for the xcon to shine, so if i can only give it 6.1ft^3 i should either keep my 12" setup or get the two 15" Icons(is 30Hz port tuning good for these subs). How do the Icons compare or contrast with Fi Car Audio Q subs, cuz when i rely on the VD calculator it says the Q's would do better and i do understand that its not true accurate measurement or fact just going with what i have seen. If i am wrong about comparing a subs VD as one chaacteristic of getting a sub then please inform me, i appreciate it.

well i looked at he dc lvl 4xl, and its in the runnings; i also looking at ascendant audio mayhem 18" or sundown nightshade 18. whats the x-max on the nightshade 18"s