jcarter1885
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Posts posted by jcarter1885
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I run NorthStar and Odyssey AGM batteries at the moment. There are a lot of good brands out there to choose from.
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Cleaning up the wire a little bit and finally using my heavy duty Jims Machine Worx 4 In and Out 1/0 fuse block.
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More pictures of the enclosure being made by my box guy; same who built my enclosure for my SSA Icon 15" about 5 year ago. Same box from my avatar picture of my profile; setup was in my last car the 1997 Acura RL.
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I'm going going, back back to two 12"s. Today was a sad day
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On 3/17/2021 at 7:00 PM, Tirefryr said:How do you like the "pro-style" mids? I've heard most of them have no response below 100Hz.
I personally love the pro style mids for their dynamics but to find the right one is kinda tricky. The more notable brands like B&C, Beyma, 18Sound, Ciare all make drivers that play below 100hz even Eric Stevens new mids play low.. not component or midbass low but lower then most other pro style mids. A lot of them do sound hollow; or just lacking in overall acoustics. Then there are some that have depth and that full warm sound to them with some extra details.
Most PA speakers are only meant to do their damage in the upper frequency ranges and that's why the sensitivity numbers are skewed and people think they are better drivers vs car audio speakers. But honestly most of those drivers don't have good accuracy or tonality. You'll see specs like 120-15,000hz frequency range for a mid; you know to stay away from these drivers.
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Sneak Peak of new enclosure
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New Mids Alert!
Crescendo UN6.5
I also treated my door panels with the leftover second skin mat.
Passenger door was done here. I will finish the Driver door and install Crescendo mids in the am.
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You can do the 8 gauge but to safe I would do the 4 gauge from battery to rear distro block then 8 gauge to amp. Just depends on budget, wire on hand and preference really.
Just me but if you did do the 4 gauge run I would add a ground block as well. 8 gauge wire from amp to block and 4 gauge from block to a nice sanded piece of metal in your trunk.
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On 3/6/2021 at 10:29 PM, Tirefryr said:That horn body is MASSIVE! Let me know how you like your new amp.
I ended up not installing the amp. Makes no sense to buy two amps when the end goal is a 6 channel amplifier. I tried to install it and the 4 gauge wasnt big enough for my oversized Knu wire. I didn't want to trim the wire and didn't have ferrules at the moment; plus I didn't want to be without music. So I put the SSA amp back in for now.
D'Amore amp is up for sale.
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I had to cut the horn bodies down to make them fit under the dash and since I had one in there to measure; I gave them a listen. Wow just wow just wow; can't believe I talked myself out these for years but I did learn a lot by auditioning different tweeters to see what I liked. These HLCDs are a completely different animal. With just one speaker playing and not mounted corectly it overpowered my whole front stage. It's giving me a reason to upgrade my mids
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Since all that is gone and we have 60s today I upgraded my trunk battery ground from one 2/0 welding cable to two cables.
Wiring is still temporary. I finally decided to keep this subwoofer and just upgrade to a new box. Even with a smaller custom battery box my port is too close without the proper breathing room. The new enclosure will be sub up but port to the back. Once that is built and installed I will focus on better wire management.
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What we been dealing with this past week.
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Amp porn Thursday since I have been having problems with my SSA amp and havent heard from SSA in over a week, no bueno.
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Next few steps not in order are alarm, h/o alternator, new enclosure (sub up and port back), another 2/0 welding cable ground for rear battery, rims and paint will be last (just the same color but a fresh new coat). Ive already been replacing panels and worn weather stripping from the previous owner.
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6 hours ago, nigel said:Glad you were able to figure out what was wrong. Too bad you spent so much time trying to find the issue somewhere it wasn't, but I get trying to look at everything first before dropping more money.
Thanks man and even though time was lost, I would have hated to spend more money if I didnt need to. But in the long run this unit will pay itself off considering my next car I wont be able to swap out decks, all the factory deck features and summing this unit has is a win win.
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Im nowhere near done with the wiring, all equipment positioning is permanent but wiring will be tidied up more later in.
On 1/27/2021 at 10:56 PM, Tirefryr said:That AC piece is $$$$. At least it works though!
Yes it was some money but getting rid of the noise was a huge plus. I haven't been able to enjoy my SSA amp in 9 months since I installed it because of the noise the Dayton DSP408 put out, my gains have been all the way down since day one. Yesterday was the first time I got to enjoy my front stage in its full glory. Too finally have some piece of mind was worth all the money. I literally bought 5 different rcas, rewired my head unit and amps, pulled out my sub and redid all ground wires. Took my dash apart countless times and center console where my rca's are ran etc. All that just to chase a noise that was consistent with 3 different units from Dayton in my car. Im not bashing them as I loved the Dayton and the learning experience of going full active. There are people who run the unit flawlessly and some who had the same problems as me. The wierd thing is there are people who have the same issues with the AC unit, the Helix unit and etc. So im guessing they are install dependent or vehicle dependent or all the above. I thought about the JL TWK88 but seen this unit was more factory integration friendly for future cars where radio's arent removable and I plan to upgrade my front stage amp to the 6 channel AC amplifier in the future.
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Lots of changes coming over the next week or so. Just upgrades, nothing major at the moment. Trying to tidy things up and tie loose ends before I make some bigger moves later this year.
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Man this AudioControl unit is dope. Easy to use and lots of features over my Dayton. All the white noise I had with the Dayton is gone, system sounds so much cleaner. I think with the Daytons low input voltage I was also clipping my equipment at certain volumes. The AC DSP has clip lights for every output while hooking it up using the software. I havent had time to clean up the install, but I will soon and Ill take pictures as well.
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New DSP alert, Dayton will be gone once I receive two pairs of RCAs from NVX. The Dayton was nice and I learned a lot just couldn't get rid of the white noise no matter what. I have changed all my grounds, reran RCAs etc. Spent days of wiring and unwiring with no end it sight, after my third one from Dayton. First one had other issues besides the white noise as well.
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Decided to clean my trunk and wiring up some, bought a new amp board since ill be removing my amp from being mounted to the enclosure. I like the shorter board, makes it almost look like its floating.
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Jims Machine Worx does some bad ass machine work, this 4 Input and Output 1/0 Fuse Distribution Block is dope. I will attach this to my battery box in my trunk for a cleaner wiring job.
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My factory USB outlet was always an issue when I first received the car and looking into Hyundai Forums, I wasnt the only one with this issue so I had to fix it. When I first installed my radio I did temp install with usb extension cord that came with my Pioneer radio. In the first picture in between my leg and gear shifter, there is the USB cord just laying there loosely. This time I did a permanent install, removed the factory connection and ran a 3.0 USB cable through the factory opening.
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2015 Hyundai Sonata Sport/Limited
in Build Logs
Posted
Slowly working on this rear battery wiring, it's still not complete but it's more eye appealing than before.