AlanHall

well, yeah that makes sense...

how come you want the ports back? Are you worried about making spl numbers? Thats the only advantage ive ever seen with that. I personally dont care for the "punchy" sound with the ports back. I feel like it pounds flowing lows butter all up. But back shows a little gain on the mic.

for burping a spl car yes. . . for a daily set up, i doubt it . The impedance changes alot.

My fluke clamp hasent failed me yet.

Something else to consider when comparing numbers from other cars is for example in a explorer dynamat is worth about 2db...

what ORG are you running ? is this meca or somthing?

For what?

This is a nice write up. But how come you wouldnt use a nice piece of like 12ga speaker wire so it lasts?

what up from the baton rouge area!!

I also think the 4 is enough. If you look at anyone in drag whos been loud with an explorer thats pretty much what most used. I think like most people said your just going to have to shorten those ports up. isnt full length like 18inchs? When we where playing with explorers the 2 door played like i wana 4-5hz higher than the 4 doors. im sure it would work simular in a blazer.

you can measure it with a clamp meter. AC volts divided by AC amps. Port, tunning, and enclosure size can move it around. But its not somthing ive normally seen played with accept in our 100% SPL enclosures when we were tryin to control it higher or lower. What are you tryin to do??

15s are for pu$$ys!!!!!! oh yeah.. i think im putting 6 18s in the astro.. and i got this sweet 200watt jensen amp to run them.

i agree 100% if any of you havent yet. you will learn the enclosure does the talking . It takes an ear envolved in this as much as most of us are to hear the difference from woofer to woofer in the same enclosure. The pure change in sound and depth of the nice ported enclosure will make her think its 100x louder than before. But, then again you might not be able to port 2 15s in that trunk. So forsure a nice single 15 should be nice.

using round wood dowl works good for bracing without jacking up the inside of the enclosure. you can get some pretty good sized stock from home depot. you can even go big with like some handrail stuff its round for the most part.

nonsensical.... Well. if you going to spend your day chasing around "nonsensical" systems and ideas post. You are going to need ALOT of extra time. 99% of the set ups i build,read about and these forum members own seem like they would be "nonsensical" by your outlooks. So, good luck in your ventures to save the car audio world.

1 12 in the trunk with as much power as you can afford. You will miss your back seat once its gone. You guys know how to find me if you would like some help.

Port will be fine. But with the top being 25inches from to back. Wouldnt you have room to face the port up along the back side of the woofers? it wont suck either way. but id do the port on the driver side. How come your doing such a big box for 2 12s? Or did i miss somthing ?

the cactus is going to be the most power out of those 3 .. its 5k in the 1st place, plus it stomps ass on low voltage like in street classes it was built to run in

i would stick with your original post.

Thats about perfect port area IMO. But i come up with 84.78 of port. Which is still great for that enclosure. I was never 100% how to figure port area of a areo port with the flanges and all. But im pretty sure 3 6inch round ports is the 84.78.

This is what I'm leaning towards atm. I just have to figure out how I'm going to get enough port area. all that open room under the woofer near the port can be used for more port area..

Whose farts have more knowledge about sound than you do. The first step to "being loud" is not to build a wall. Im very sure we can bring a few walled cars over and toss them on the meter vs your non walled cars. Funny. A novice with a wall versus anyone with experience and an enclosure will get smoked. Which one is easier to redo when you realize the tuning isn't right or that the sub is choked? First enclosures in any vehicle are never right and you are inferring that you are recommending to a noob that it will be louder if he walls it. Terrible recommendation in my book and I am sure you cannot prove differently. Well. your saying im a noob? Or am i misreading? Im pretty sure my sig alone speaks for my experience with either type of enclosures. Not encluding the work ive done for others. As for your point about retuning . I dont see how the port in either is more of a pain to play with the tunning . And the guy is here asking for help, so if someone helps him with enclosure and port size and tunning, it should be fine. Im sure hes very capable of following instructions. I really think the problem is your such a know it all smart a$$ with your offerings . Besides , was he even asking if should wall it or not? Im pretty sure he was asking how to layout the wall he already had decided on doing .

Whose farts have more knowledge about sound than you do. The first step to "being loud" is not to build a wall. Im very sure we can bring a few walled cars over and toss them on the meter vs your non walled cars.

All of my boxes have rounded edges and I always use screws Just set the bit depth accordingly and have the bit bearing only on sides where you don't have screws. What he said .. Use screws, why waste the time glueing and coming up with ways to not use them just to have the box come apart . I have seen plenty of glued and brad nailed boxes come loose. You should be able to router the edges just fine

How is there no benefit to having a wall? I dont think for music that the port placement is going to matter a whole lot. But if you ever decide to throw it on a meter at a show, the woofers on the passenger side should show a decent gain over the others.