nallav

Made a new thread since this is specifically about a ported box, whereas the other thread is pertaining to the whole system. Things can get ugly and hard to read when there's multiple topic discussed in the same thread. Here's more info, sorry I didn't notice that link earlier. Some points I can only touch on, I've been in Afghanistan for awhile and can't remember much pertinent info about setups I have heard before then. * Subwoofers in question, number of subwoofers & subwoofer size 2 12" Fi Q dual 1 ohm * Amplifier being used, specifically the model number. AudioQue AQ2200D * Fabrication skill level High * Preferred material to be used (i.e. MDF, fibreglass, etc) Wood. Whatever is best. * Vehicle which the subwoofers will be used in 1999 Chevy Tahoe 4 door. Lots of room. * Other products you have heard, but have not owned that you enjoyed & their install particulars. Haven't listened to much that's notable lately, except for a couple JL W7s in ported box, each powered individually with a 750-800W amp (can't recall for sure) which do a pretty good job in his car. * Musical preferences Mostly rock and heavy metal, occasional hip-hop * System goals SQ that gets loud on demand. * Previous subwoofers you have used, and their installation particulars 3 Boston G2s in a sealed box with a Rockford P1000bd amp * List any research you have previously done Not too sure what I'm supposed to put here. I've done lots of research over the past couple months on all kinds of car audio related topics. I know I didn't get everything, however.

I'll check this out as soon as I'm able to and let you know what happens. While it's playing, didn't think to do that. I'll also do that as soon as I'm able.

Looking for suggestions here. I have now 2 12" Qs in a sealed box, with separate chambers. Thinking they might be better off in a ported box. Not sure if they should be in the same chamber or separate. Not too sure what to tune it to, either. I can go as big as I need to for the box, though. Normally I would graph it in WinISD to get an idea how it would turn out, however that's not available to me currently. Any suggestions on this topic? Also, if someone is able to post some WinISD graphs I can look at, that would be very appreciated.

Never done this before. It's as simple as hooking the batter up to the terminals? What size battery, and do I do both voice coils together or separately?

Starting over. Here's my setup: Vehicle: 1999 Chevy Tahoe Head unit: Alping CDA-9886 Door speakers: 2 pairs Boston SL60 Speaker amp: Soundstream TRX4.640 Subs: 2 12" Fi Q (with BP Power option) Sub amp: AudioQue AQ2200D Door speaker and amp are fine. Absolutely no issues there. Sound awesome, even when they play loud. Exactly what I wanted, and better than my expectations. Head unit has 3 RCA outs: Front/Rear/Sub (Front and Rear go to 4 channel amp, Sub goes to bass amp) No LPF on the HU, and HPF is off. Subs are wired to 1 ohm, and verified 1 ohm on the DMM. Set gains with DMM, almost 47VAC (can't remember exact number) and clipping happens at full volume, but is rare. Gains were set with sub level on HU at max, bass knob at max, volume at slightly above 3/4, with a 50Hz tone. LPF on amp is a 90-95Hz (approx) Subsonic filter at 25Hz (approx) With 47VAC and 1ohm, ohms law gives me 2209W. I'm just under 47VAC on the DMM, so by calculations I'm definitely within 50W of that Ohms Law Calculator @ the12volt.com Approx 20 feet 1/0 gauge power wire with 200 amp circuit breaker (which has yet to trip). Ground cable is about 1 foot, same 1/0 wire (is it right to call it wire when it's that damn big?!?) Battery and alternator not yet upgraded, but will be soon, and it seems to provide plenty of power for what's in use currently. Bass knob has a clipping light, no idea how accurate it is though. But it rarely goes off now that gain has been set with DMM. Bass boost is off. Set gains with DMM with bass setting (not sub level) on HU at 0, 2, and 5 (out of 7) with no audible difference when played at the levels it was set with. No ground loop from amp chassis to vehicle. Tested and verified with DMM. Although, can someone verify that the RCA should be grounded to the vehicle? I didn't wire any ground in, but DMM shows continuity from outer ring of RCA to vehicle ground. Just want to verify if this is correct. Subs wires as per this diagram http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_2-ohm_mono.jpg 12 guage speaker wire from the amp to the speaker box. I only was able to get 6 feet of 12 guage, which I put in yesterday. At the same time, I also rewired the box with the 16 guage I had. This included cutting and stripping all ends as new, and inside the box where it's 16 guage I ran 2 wires for each connection to ensure there's enough wire for the signal to get through. This did seem to help slightly. What more info do you need? I'll be happy to provide it. I know a ported box will be louder (+3db compared to -3db if I recall correctly, but I might not be recalling correctly, and I'm not sure how that applies when the subs are in separate chambers), but how much louder would that actually be? It's not much issue for me to build another box, it'll just take time before I can get the material and a work space. Current box is made from 3/4" MDF, 2 layers on top where speakers mount, silicone applied at all joints and areas where it might leak, with sperate 1.2 cu ft chambers. Divider is also 2 layers. This box is extra sturdy. Tested by parking a wheel on it. My truck weighs damn near 5500 pounds when last weighed. I'd be happy to provide video and pictures, just let me know more specifically what this video needs to include and I'll get right on it. Another thought. There's LOTS of space inside a Tahoe. Should I go with 4 subs total? I had 3 before, but I didn't like weird numbers like 1.33ohms. Not much a problem for me to get 2 more subs and another amp. The harder part will be the electrical. I'm sure someone will ask, so my goal is sound quality (though I'm not an audiophile) at ALL volume levels, including loud. I listen to a lot of rock and metal, so control over the woofer is a must. But from time to time I also listen to a select bit of hip-hop, where the bass is crucial. Trying to be as informative and helpful as I can be so we can figure this out. If any more info is needed, or if I'm missing anything or doing something retarded, I'll be happy to correct it or provide the info. It's gonna help me out in the end so there's no point for me to be an arseho about it. Like I said, I have no issue with building a new box if that's what I need to do. I have a fully equipped woodshop (somewhat) readily available to me to make very accurate boxes. Also, if I do need a new box, I'll be looking into better wood than MDF, so feel free to suggest something if that's the case. I don't have access to any other amps anymore, at least not easily. I do however still have my 3 Boston G2 subs if I need them for testing purposes. However, they won't be able to handle the power from this amp. Instead of building a new box, if this is what's needed, could stuffing the box do the trick? There's no carpet on the box yet. Before I put the carpet on, I planned on spraying the box with the spray on truck bed liner, I figure this will not only help it to stay sealed, but help keep it rigid and keep it together (though I really don't have any fear of the box coming apart). Then put the carpet over that. Any thoughts on that? I have a feeling the RCA cables to the bass amp might not be as good as they should be, but I really can't say for certain. Any way to test this? I swapped them out with other sets of cables with no audible (at least on my level) improvement, however. Thank you all for the help that has been given so far, and for the help I'll surely receive in the future. This forum has so far been the most knowledgeable, informative, and ready to assist place that I've found. I only wish there was a better way to repay you all other than a simple thanks.

Correction. Hearing it.

Done. I knew this multi meter would come in handy for something. Finally I got it to where it sounds good and isn't clipping. Thanks. However, this is still pretty damn quiet. I've heard a single 12" Rockford P1 powered by a 200W amp (sorry can't remember the make/model) louder than this, in my same truck. Surely my setup should be louder. Could the box be limiting it? Would a ported box make that much difference? Will the sub get that much louder as it breaks in? I've heard people talk about how loud these subs can be, but I'm just not seeing it at this point. But it definitely does sound good.

Went out this morning to work on it. After thinking about it, how it's been said that crossover and cables and whatnot could be bad, I decided to unhook everything completely from the amp and speakers, redo all the wire ends, reverify all the cables are good and run correctly, and connect everything new again. At the same time, I reset all the settings on both the HU and amp to start fresh. It's better this time, the bass boost is off and the gain isn't maxed, the HU levels are down and I'm achieving more bass. I didn't get a chance to fine tune it yet and see how it's really doing (too many people around here to turn it up) but so far it's looking better. I think the crossover point on the amp was set too low, but I'm not entirely sure that was the problem, or if it was the only problem. Or even if the problem is solved yet. Perhaps all I needed was a fresh start on it, but we'll see when I'm able to get somewhere less populated and tune it properly.

What do you mean by how is the electrical? It's a 99 Tahoe as already stated. The subs are wired the same as the image here http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_2-ohm_mono.jpg except it's 1 ohm coils instead of 2. By the way, I've created a new thread in a proper forum here

What do you mean by how is the electrical? It's a 99 Tahoe as already stated. The subs are wired the same as the image here http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_2-ohm_mono.jpg except it's 1 ohm coils instead of 2.

The RCAs are good, not only did I use the same ones as I had for the old subs, but I swapped them out elsewhere to test them. There's no HPF inline anywhere from the HU to the sub amp. I have verified the RCAs for the subs are indeed connected to the sub out on the head unit. (3 sets of RCA outs on the HU btw, front, rear, and sub. It's an Alpine CDA-9886)

2 12" Fi Q subs in sealed separate 1.2 cu ft chambers powered by an AudioQue AQ2200 amp. On the amp I've got to turn the gain and bass boost all the way up and on the head unit the subwoofer and bass levels to the max just to hear the subs, and barely at that. Something is wrong here, and I need some help figuring out what it is. I've double checked, redone, and double checked all the wiring, and it is correct. The subs are 1 ohm DVC, and measured at the amp, is exactly a 1 ohm load. The polarity is not reversed anywhere. Tested the DC power at both the battery and the amp to see they are the same. Tested for a ground loop to find none. I'm at a loss as to what to look at next.

The 20Hz was just to see if they would do it. Didn't play them loud then at all, and only for about 10 seconds. I know the box isn't going to be massively loud. But I'm pretty sure I should at least be able to hear the subs without the gain and all the levels turned up to max. As it is now, that's not the case. There's something wrong here that I'm missing.

The build is actually going to take quite awhile to get it completely finished, but the speakers and amps are in now. Boston SL60 components in the doors driven by a Soundstream TRX4.640 amp, an AudioQue AQ2200 powering a pair of 12" Fi Qs. I made up a test/tuning cd and in 1.2 cu ft sealed chambers those subs played the 20Hz tone fine. Or at least it sounded fine to me, I don't go around listening to 20Hz music every day to have much to compare it to That's the lowest tone I made though, I was simply curious if they would do it. Having a bit of an issue with the bass though. It's not loud at all, and the subs will barely even play without the gain and boost all the way up on the amp and all the levels up on the HU, and they aren't much louder even then. Been trying to troubleshoot it, but I've looked at everything I know, more things I don't know, and I can't figure it out. I'll make a new thread about it in due time. I don't need insanely massive bass. I need good sound all around that will play as loud as I want. (Slowly) building a computer and touchscreen setup to go in the truck, but it'll be awhile before that's ready.

Just recently got back from Afghanistan (I'm in the Army) and decided to do a new build in my 99 Tahoe with some of the money I saved up. Pretty sure I'll be able to learn a few good things from here. I'm not new at all to car audio, just new to Fi