Spencerk

Yeah if your only going to use it for round the house and the car that would be a good one to get.

lWhat kinda of DMM should i buy? I looked at some today and they all had different power rating. 200-750volts sound good? to check an amp you will need a dmm rated for 200 vac or more ( that should be plenty of head room to test ) and one that also has a amp clamp that can do 100 amps ac would be nice but you wont NEED it but it can save you lots-o-time doing all the math.

now all I need is the gears shirt and I will own every piece of clothing that FI sells......does that mean that I have a problem ???

Any 12 volt batt will rest at 12 to 12.8 volts normally. If you want to "run off your batt and not your alt " and still do that at 13 volts or more you will need to get 14 or 16 volts batts. IF you want to run off your batts and not go the 16 volt route you will need a batt with a high reserve capacity, and that will depend on how long you want to run with the car off.

if you don't care about numbers then go sealed, that would be the best way to do a hair trick. ported box will always have an opposing force against the air. sealed box+ lots-o-surface area+ small cabin= MESSED UP HAIR

Their would be NO advantage to doing this.....The ONLY thing you will gain is maybe 2-5 watts of output, by way of .03 or so ohms less resistance

Cool. Just noticed you are into SHO's. I've had 3 including a Vadim built to the hilt car. yep I have a 93 Gen II. I've done the 3.2 swap Big Bore Secondary butterfly, ported heads, extrusion honed intakes (both 1st and 2nd intakes) and full 1 off 2.5 inch exaust from the block to the back bumper. Other than that shes all stock its fun to pick on Z28's, transam's and C4 vetts. They never see you coming in and old 1993 ford Taurus. How much did you have wraped up in your built up SHO and what gen was it? Previous owner spent $26k on it. One of the first 92's Vadim went nuts on. Springs, shocks, sways, crossover, exhaust, displacement bored to 3.4L, stage II cam, injectors, ported heads, extrude honed intake, custom tune, quaiffe diff, and I know I am forgetting something. The car was retired in 1998 when the engine finally went, had it towed to a shop and the tow truck totaled it in the process. Convenient timing as their insurance paid for it and I was able to part it out. Still have the Powerdyne in my basement though just waiting for another project car. Amusingly I bought it for $10k a month after it was built, the guy who had it done couldn't get his valet's to start it as if she didn't fire on the first revolution she'd flood. All you had to do was step to the floor and it would roar to life, but they couldn't figure that out. Considering he was paying $800 a month to park it living in Chicago it wasn't like the money mattered to him. Thing was fast as hell and when not traction limited would stick with anything on the Chicago freeways. Yeah if half of these high school punks knew anything about cars besides what they see in the movies, they would know better than to mess with a SHO at 50mph or faster

Cool. Just noticed you are into SHO's. I've had 3 including a Vadim built to the hilt car. yep I have a 93 Gen II. I've done the 3.2 swap Big Bore Secondary butterfly, ported heads, extrusion honed intakes (both 1st and 2nd intakes) and full 1 off 2.5 inch exaust from the block to the back bumper. Other than that shes all stock its fun to pick on Z28's, transam's and C4 vetts. They never see you coming in and old 1993 ford Taurus. How much did you have wraped up in your built up SHO and what gen was it?

I work for a automotive parts manufacture, we are on the cutting edge of light weight automotive die casting, we are currently testing making entire doors and hatches for 2013 vehicles, we also make brackets of all sorts, seat brackets,mirror brackets, dash boards, rad supports you name it and I've casted it . I am a electrical controls specialist, Basically I program all the machines and robots for manufacturing / set up the new machines when buy them. I work on Buhler prince 3000 and 4500 TON die cast machines,they weight 120,000 to 500,000 tons and cost 12.5 million give or take a few million.

Hmmm weird because AGM batts contain no liquid, they are a dry cell seal chemical reaction. A gel cell or standard lead acid battery contains a sulfuric acid electrolyte in an immobilized gelignite electrolyte, which is the cause for their main down fall ( they fail at low temps) As with most everything in the world of electron transfer when you lower the nominal temp of the transferring material the resistance lowers. I would expect nothing less if you told us you had a lead acid or gel cell, but with a glass mat style battery Im kinda out of ideas for you solution. The only way you could tell if it wad the car or the battery would be to take the battery out of the car and check the voltage and load test it. then let it sit outside for one night and check again.

160 amp.....wow you have a nice stock alt I thought I was hot shit with a 130 stocker......yeah you should be fine with that, your amp will need about 130 amps at full power, so if you have ANY other acc.(winch, lights, rocket boosters, etc) you might want to think about a AMG batt

WOW ok well I think thats my sign i need to get some sleep. Thx man...she HATES that I have it up their, I think that half the reason I wont take it down

more importantly do you have the goods to back up a 1000 watt amp ( you would be surprised at what it takes to run one)

no if you have a 350 watt amp you will need 30 amps for that alone.....PLUS that 50 amps is probably what the alt makes at max power, and you have to figure in what the car will need to run. you could probably get a good amg cell bat and a smaller pully for that alt and you will should be ok, or go with a ho unit.

Garmin nuvi 260W and I F-ing hated that thing....I have updated and even gone out and bought new maps for it and it still it sucks. Most notability when I drive in grand rapids MI around 28th street it will make me take 3 left turns when I could just make one right. Once I have done that it takes so long to " recalculate my route" that I have missed the next turn, so naturally it will "recalculate my route" again taking forever to do that.....Bottom line I threw it out the window on 28th street and Division st , and got a ticket for littering. So now I have a broken Garmin and 75 less dollars in my possession.

not to get off topic, but what kind of car did you do that in Julian??

Why do you want to know if I may ask ( if you are building a system lets us know you goals, and we could help much more easily)

Well I have a BL and as the name suggests i have done 144.1 46htz on in the back of a explorer on an Zapco 9.0x burped it at 26xx watts

ummm... this is very hard to answer bc every car will be different and on top of that every install is different, and are we talking loud to the ear or loud on the TL...... WAY to many variables to take into consideration

yes its like 30 days last i checked on the btls and with the holidays the shipping could be way backed up.....I know you are pumped about getting it, just be cool man, they are a reputable company and they wont screw you at all they are lagit and upstanding. Trust me the wait will be totaly worth it

both amps would be a good choice I would get whatever one you could get for less. As for the batt unless you are going to get an isolator you need to just replace the once under the hood and with those amps you should be fine with a good amg dry cell

well I would try and move the ground but if the sub amp isnt doing ti then I would think the same location would not be cause for concern. what kind of amp is it. I could be the amp internally or the out put from the deck could be bad.

22xx watts rms on 4G wire will even if this thing was 100% efficient (imposable) that wire would still be too small....I would not take the chance. proly wont do real numbers

All of the above are great engines but the Yamaha 3.0 that came from the SHO, 16K rpm on 100% stock internals....come on, and with 900 bucks you can make a 390hp at the wheels on 91 oct pump gas JAP POWER BABY

Your car wont blow up or enter a warp or tear in space time but you will run into a bottle neck of current.....I'll keep it simple, your cars batt is one big loop, your power flows from the Negative terminal out to your source (amp) out the Pos and into the Pos post of the batt. So when you have any one part of that loop smaller than than the rest you will have a back up. Now a back up (or high opposition to current flow) your will create heat and if you have enough heat thats when "bad things can happen" bottom line just go ground crazy their is no such thing as too many grounds