wutang512
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Posts posted by wutang512
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Yeah definantly stay away from those flee market amps
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you could go to madisound and look at some drivers and tweeters on there. Thats what i did
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just please make them a yr from now. I just bought my BL a month a ago.
I remember when I was about to by Q then bam! No more Q's cause the new ones were being tested and wouldnt be available for almost 3 months
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need BTL, will SOMEONE at fi reply my email pls ???
waiting for reply since 16 jun
Never heard anything back from you after I emailed you the shipping cost as you decided that you wanted a BTL if I recall correctly.
We don't have any BTL's as the magnets are on backorder again until the end of July...we sell them faster then we can get them.
Just off the BTL'S alone ya'll must be rollin in dough
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Really isn't worth getting a BL with that amp...
I'm honestly surprised you haven't had issues with burning things up on the SSD. We've had a number of people have issues with those amplifiers and frying things.
really?? because at times i can get the sub pretty warm and stinky. this is when i beat the hell out of it. whats the deal with the pdx amps? i have it because i have a standard cab truck.
the first generation versions have noise issues. Especially the 4-channel ones. at least thats what the guys over at diymobile were complaining about
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Good job jake. Imma about to get my system rollin in the next 2 weeks. Ill have to stop by your house once everything is installed
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damn is that from those san antonio pot holes?
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You'll have to get a better or flatter response speaker that'll handle a fuller range
And what would you reccomend in a $200 budget for both tweeters and midbasses
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Ok let me get this straight since im going active pretty soon with a 9887 and 100.4D Sundown
For mid bass i would High pass on the Deck 80hz and up
and then from my amp i should low pass 500hz and below
thats basically bandpass correct?
then for my tweeters just 3.5khz and up HighPass
Am i doing this right?
Depends on the frequency response on your tweeter snd your midbass driver If your using a dedicated 8 I wouldn't go higher than neccessary the higher you go the more directional the speaker becomes thats why door speakers generally handle midbass so it's placed in the stereo image, front, rear, left, right so the listener is unable to dicern direction
thats basically what a bandpass does I have recording Eq's that'll bandpass with one unit I never done it in a car though but you could use a bass blocker at like 60 Hz and set your LP at your desired frequency
I guess ill get a lil more specific then....
these peerless midbasses crossed from 80hz to about 400hz
Peerless 830946 SLS 6.5" Woofer - 4 ohm from Madisound
then these seas prestige tweet crossed at 3khz
SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G (H1396) 1" Textile Dome Tweeter from Madisound
what speaker is filling in the gap between 400 Hz and 3 kHZ?
and thats the problem that comes into play I dont wanna have to cut my doors some more to add a midrange so what should i do?
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Ok let me get this straight since im going active pretty soon with a 9887 and 100.4D Sundown
For mid bass i would High pass on the Deck 80hz and up
and then from my amp i should low pass 500hz and below
thats basically bandpass correct?
then for my tweeters just 3.5khz and up HighPass
Am i doing this right?
Depends on the frequency response on your tweeter snd your midbass driver If your using a dedicated 8 I wouldn't go higher than neccessary the higher you go the more directional the speaker becomes thats why door speakers generally handle midbass so it's placed in the stereo image, front, rear, left, right so the listener is unable to dicern direction
thats basically what a bandpass does I have recording Eq's that'll bandpass with one unit I never done it in a car though but you could use a bass blocker at like 60 Hz and set your LP at your desired frequency
I guess ill get a lil more specific then....
these peerless midbasses crossed from 80hz to about 400hz
Peerless 830946 SLS 6.5" Woofer - 4 ohm from Madisound
then these seas prestige tweet crossed at 3khz
SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G (H1396) 1" Textile Dome Tweeter from Madisound
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chillin
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Ok let me get this straight since im going active pretty soon with a 9887 and 100.4D Sundown
For mid bass i would High pass on the Deck 80hz and up
and then from my amp i should low pass 500hz and below
thats basically bandpass correct?
then for my tweeters just 3.5khz and up HighPass
Am i doing this right?
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If you didnt know 6th ave electronics is selling the Alpine 9887 for about $230
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I'm going to take a guess that there isn't anything...
with all that? hell naw unless you wanna get one from japan. I know pioneer carrozzeria , kenwood japan, and alpine would have all them features but not for no $450. More like $2000 or more. Your not gonna find anything like that in america cause majority of us are too cheap.
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Right the first time isn't going to happen. There is no rule of thumb that will work.
Generically speaking you want to bandpass your mid with a HP that allows it to play as low as possible for the listening levels and music you listen to. If it ever sounds stressed you need to raise it. The LP on the mid is a bit trickier as underlap, overlap, or the same cross point can all work depending on your installation locations and personal preferences.
Typically as a rule of thumb you want to figure out how low your tweeter can play the same as with the mid, but you have to be much more careful as it is very easy to blow the tweeter.
Once you have those ranges then you have to figure out when/where they mix the best. This could take many, many hours.
Time alignment generically is used to compensate for path length differences. How to use it will depend on where your speakers are mounted, but usually you take the furthest away and adjust the rest to match.
And Bandpass does require a 4 channel amp with a Subsonic filter Correct?
Bandpassing your mids will be done completely in the 9887.
The SSF is ONLY for your subwoofer, but with the LP of the headunit and the SSF your sub will be bandpassed as well.
When I get the amp and deck Ill come back to this thread and ask how to set it up correctly. Im trying to work a crazy amount of overtime
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yeah i definantly want the D revision then
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theres one used on here for $260 i believe
I think i seen that one its the C revision.
whats the difference between the C and D revisions
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you dont think sundown will revise the 100.4D Any time soon?
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The Sundown SAX-100.4D is a great amplifier for the money with a 2 way electronic crossover network along with line outs. 12 or 24db per octave selectable slopes, variable frequency adjustment, x10 switch to multiply the frequency higher to run tweeters.
A little out of your price range.
I seen DB-r has them for $290 Refurb
and When I think about it ill only be paying $100 for it since i sold my inifinity amp for $130 and opened a chase account with a coupon which they gave me a extra $100.
Might as well get it. Ive seen everybody else around here with sundown products and have heard no complaints
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Bandpass can actually be accomplished with a 2 channel with variable low pass and a SSF.
Hmmm.... Explain more please
Ive been searching for about the past hr a 4-channel amp 100watts or more at 4 ohms
with a subsonic filter without going over $250 used or brand new
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Right the first time isn't going to happen. There is no rule of thumb that will work.
Generically speaking you want to bandpass your mid with a HP that allows it to play as low as possible for the listening levels and music you listen to. If it ever sounds stressed you need to raise it. The LP on the mid is a bit trickier as underlap, overlap, or the same cross point can all work depending on your installation locations and personal preferences.
Typically as a rule of thumb you want to figure out how low your tweeter can play the same as with the mid, but you have to be much more careful as it is very easy to blow the tweeter.
Once you have those ranges then you have to figure out when/where they mix the best. This could take many, many hours.
Time alignment generically is used to compensate for path length differences. How to use it will depend on where your speakers are mounted, but usually you take the furthest away and adjust the rest to match.
And Bandpass does require a 4 channel amp with a Subsonic filter Correct?
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Can anybody explain to me what each of these does and how can it benefit the sound I'll be reproducing in my system.
The deck I will be using will be the Alpine CDA-9887
Also do i have to or need to measure anything when I do time alignment
I wanna be able to do this right the first time and for the last time in my vehicle.
Any suggestions welcomed
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got damn.
well now i know what to do
2 pieces of MLV and 4 pieces of ccf
1MLV in each door sandwiched betweeen 2 pieces of CCF .
Ill definantly will be buying from you man thanks
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Hey don would it be best to use the ccf and MLV in combination?
Like the CCF on the plastic door panel and the MLV on top of the Outside metal door panel.
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Lanzar amp
in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
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Yeah definantly stay away from those flee market amps