hondakilla98

I ran my power wire today. Here are some pics. I ran my power wire down with the fuel lines past the exhaust. Here is a shot of it coming past the cat and exhaust manifold from underneath. Running to the back zip tied to the fuel line. Going behind the fuel filter. Going up through the hole I drilled. Coming up through the hole I drilled. Here's how it's ran for now.

Any progress?

My tweets are basically the size of a 4" midrange. I'm trying to figure out where to place them. I'm thinking more in line with the pillar, so they block less vision. They won't be as aesthetically pleasing, but should be less of a vision problem for the wife. Mine also need to be on axis, so I'm pretty limited on placement. I know what you mean about driving trucks. I used to drive for a living, so to me. The town car is small.

I wouldn't mess with door panels either. When they were available they cost $900, now they aren't and would probably be a pain to find in good condition in a junk yard. The speakers I have are 7" home audio and should provide decent midbass, they also aren't neo. So the magnet structure is fairly deep. I plan on running large format tweeters up on the pillars like you did. Which should help bring up the sound stage, and make up for the poor aiming of the mids..

For the box I'm thinking about going with 2-4" aero Ports. Now do I just put them in flush with the top of the box firing at the empty 6x9 holes? Or put the box in and try to install the Ports afterwards externally? And if I install them later. Do I cut holes in the deck carpet or fire the ports through, like the 6x9's did?

I have the proximity system in the car, but it says its disabled. I looked in the manual and it sounds like you can turn it off. But it should default back on when you turn off the car and restart it again. Its something that needs addressed. It's something expected when you buy a used car. Somethings will need attention. As far as my presence on the forum, I tend to devote myself to whatever hobby I'm into at the moment. For a while it was shooting and reloading, then my home theater. And now that I have something that isn't an electrical nightmare I'm back to car audio. Hopefully I can run power wire and do the big three tomorrow before it starts raining. I'm excited to try out the active stage I planned, but since I saw you have 8's in the doors I'm tempted to change things up.

Simple. It keeps the wife happy. And it keeps my back bumper pristine when she's driving.

Here I drilled a hole for the camera and license plate light to pass through as well as two holes for the lower screws. Backside of the Alpine license plate ring and camera put together, talk about some tiny ass screws. Marked and drilled a hole for the wires to pass through the license plate. Where the camera wire comes out with the reverse light harness. I zip tied it to the harness all the way down the trunk hinge. And the payoff! A working backup camera. Here's a night shot. And the trunk all back together.

I appreciate it, I'm sure I'll be picking your brain soon enough. I'm just happy to be making some progress with all the stereo stuff I accumulated for my last build. And the weather actually went along today and yesterday. It was sunny and 65 today. Definitely not typical Oregon weather for early march.

Well the sub RCA's are in and so is the backup camera. I'll post pics soon. They are still uploading.

I got lucky on this one, the leather and paint are the colors I wanted, it was well priced and under 100k miles. Something that is hard to find here in the NW. Now I'm wondering where I'm going to run all my wires.

Ok. So running off my measurements, I'd have 3.4 cu ft, - .1 per sub for displacement, -.15 per 4" aero port 18" long, giving me 2.9 cu ft @ 34hz.

very funny. Hopefully I will.

I did some quick measurements and it looks like I have roughly 41" width, 17" depth, and 10.5" height after I remove the stock sub. So I could do a custom box for the SA10's but just barely, since they are 10.5" across.

Some pics of the trunk area I have to work with.

Some pics of the car and deck install.

+1 For a car used occasionally, why put all the extra money in a turbo setup. When N2O will make the car fast for short bursts. It's not a road race car. I like the progress, this is looking amazing.

Looking good Fatty! hopefully this doesn't end up like the CRX. Lol.

Just remember that its 80% diet. So if you are going to focus on one thing, make it your diet. About five years ago I went from 315-255 in about six months. I had a fairly active job, but never worked out. I just ate 5-6 small meals a day, lots of veggies, lean protein and tons of water. If you make a meal plan and have food already prepared it makes it harder to justify cheating on your diet. Because its easier to eat what's already made. Good motivated tell everyone you know what your doing. It keeps you motivated and accouaccountable. The positive feedback from friends as they see results will keep you motivated.

That's how my car is setup. Hid's take too long to warm up. And I usually only use my high beams momentarily, which makes halves a better choice.

Very nice. Especially for a first car.

I have a 96 cadillac eldorado. I put a 240 amp alt kit in a reman alt. it worked fine for about a month. now whenever the engine is running the lights flicker. I get a constant 14.5 volts at the battery. do you have any ideas?

I'm happy to see you didn't buy another RS. Never liked the add on lip kit. Sounds like your well on your way, mod wise. Should be a great toy, fast and loud.

Nice truck. How big a shot are you running?

The lights came out nice. I hope you can save yourself some money on that cable.