Slumpin

getting there. i work 12 hour shifts, 4 and 5 days a week so i only get the chance to work on it a couple days a week. i have most of it done, the holes are cut for the ports and all. everythings countersunk, a few pieces have been glued and siliconed. i tried making a round cut using a pieces of string tied to my router, and needless to say it didnt turn out so well, so i had to scrap that piece, and im changing the box up a bit since i have to redo that piece anyway. want more room for the 12's, i didnt dig the look of them coming right up to the edge the way they did. i think i can still finish it up today or tomorrow and get everything drying. will post pics later on today. havent been posting here because it didnt seem like people were overly interested.

if there is another port though they would all have to be quite a bit longer to keep the same tune right? all the room i have from the front of the box to where the ports would hit the 12's ia about 19-20 inches. wouldnt they need to be longer than that? if i kept them all in the middle, between the 12's, i could maybe add another 10 inches if i angled them downwards, but would that have any effect on the sound?

ok i figured up the space again today, and it looks like im working with 4.35 cubic feet net, counting the woofers and port space. im planning on adding some mdf bracing in the middle for the front and rear sections, but i doubt this will occupy more than maybe a 1/10th of a cubic ft, if even that. is this looking too big? i definitely dont want anything boomy, i'm looking to keep as much of that sealed SQ as i can. again, i'm shooting for a low tune, 28-30hz. sticking the 4 inch 18 inch long ports in as they are now should give me about a 28 hz tune right?

they also told me i would need to have longer ports with 3 to keep the same tuning. im shooting for 30 hz with about 4-4.2 net cubic feet (not counting ports, im not sure how much they displace) that doesnt make much sense to me, i thought ports went by area. wouldnt you want shorter ports to keep the same area as 2 longer ones, or are there other factors im not aware of? this is my first ported box if you can't tell

yes, the most rearward angled section will hold the 12's. the 8 inch tall section that lays on my decklid under the hatch will house the ports, firing forward. a couple people have told me i should use 3 4 inch ports to minimize port noise. thoughts on that?

upwards, angled slightly to the rear.

i asked a friend of mine who is very knowledgable with car audio (but puts a lot of stock in modeling programs, which i dont) to help me with the port designs on my box. i was shooting for a 4 ft^3 @30 hz box, when i asked him about it, this is the reply i got. he recommends 33hz, but i was shooting for 30 because i want this to hit LOW. To be honest with you, I think 4 cubes for those 2 subs is too big. The Qts on these subs is so low, that they really want a smaller box. I found that 1.5 cubes (each) tuned to 33hz gives a nice flat response. With the 1.5 cubes per sub (3 cubes total), you'd need 2 4" ports at 17.4" long each, or 3 3" ports at 15" long each. If you jump up to 2 cubes per sub (4 total) tuned to 30hz, the response thins out between 40 and 70hz, which I feel will hurt your overall bass response. But... at that size, your ports would be 15.5" long for the pair of 4" ports, and 13.37" long for the 3 3" ports. i was thinking 2 ft^3 was perfect for a ported rl-p 12. should i go ahead and do the 4 ft box or take his advice and do only 3? for the ports im using 2 4 inch aeroports. are the lengths he gave me about right? anyone else have any thoughts on this? if i have to, i can build it another inch and gain about another cubic foot, so i can go up to 5 if i have to. also, its goin in a firebird trans am, so the design is quite unorthodox. here is a picture of my current sealed box. im basically going to build the same thing, just with a rectangular section extending about 1 and a half feet up to the backs of the back seats.

ok well i got the 4 inch aeroports, and finalized the design for the box. i had to make it bigger than i thought in the front to accomadate the ports, and angle the woofers towards the back to fit under the hatch towards the rear. however i ended up with a lot more space than i thought, it looks like i have 5.06 cubic feet before the ports and woofers. if i remember correctly the rl-p 12's displace .18 each, so that leaves me with 4.7 before the ports. when i subtract the ports volume from the box, i subtract in entire volume of the inside of the aeroport right? when i first did it it was way too big, so i took away the very bottom section, the real skinny piece at the bottom. if i wanted to, i could build this back in and have enough room for 2 ported 15's (rl-p's of course) i have the 2 4 inch precision ports from parts express. i believe they're 18 inches long before being cut. would that be enough port for a pair of 15's, or wouuld i need a third?

pretty stinkin loud for some 8's for sure. how would you compare it to your old xxx 15 setup? not just in terms of loudness but everyday driveability, transition, etc.

awesome install, looks great. any way you could put up a video?

do what i did, buy massive amp, ask questions later!

yeah the subs are going to be just like they are with this box, with the ports firing straight towards the front of the car. i think i could also fit them in between the woofers, firing straight up, might that sound better, being at the very rear of the car?

where would i find 4.5 inch ports? this is what i was looking at, didnt see any 4.5 inchers there. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=268-352

im not gonna be able to make it, im off saturday, but work sunday to wednesday nights.

how does the basket help a sub be loud, just by its rigidity to support the moving assembly? not being a smartass or anything, asking a serious question, i'm curious.

were there ever production d4 magnums made? if not, is it possible to special order some? i dont understand why they're all d2, thats great for one but what about pairs? i dont want to run my crossfire as .5 ohm daily, or at 4 ohms. are there other wiring configurations im not aware of to get 1 or 2 ohms out of 2 d2 drivers?

my crossfire amp breathed new life into my rl-ps, so im gonna roll with those for a while longer. man are they loud

oh i know 2 15's are gonna be stupid loud in my car. my 12's get plenty loud, and i love the sound quality, but i'm used to the sound level and want more. thought hard about some rl-p 15's, but i think mags will sound as nice and get louder.

i look pretty stupid now, i thought it was either .5 or 4 lol no hope for d4 mags then? im having a hard time deciding between the old xxx 15's and a pair of mag 15's for my ta. what im thinking is the mags will sound a bit better, but the xxx's will get louder, if i give them ~1500 watts apiece. im not planning on buying another amp though, so i was thinking the mags would be louder off ~1000 watts apiece. does this sound about right? im planning on building a ~5 ft^3 sealed box. theres no room for ported 15's in my car or even 12's, probably not even a single 15. how do you all think they'll compare to a pair of rl-p 15's? how much do the mags sell for anyway?

probably not. i doubt you'll get as loud with only 200 for the pair. what amp do you have? MAYBE with a pair of type-r's in a good box, but they aren't going to sound as good as some diamonds. if you want to S L A M, as defined by most people on this forum, you'll need to spend more like 3-400 for the pair and give them 1000-1500 watts rms. if you dont have a lot of power to work with, you probably dont want to upgrade your amp too, and the d3's will sound nice and get fairly loud, but they wont top 3 memphis pr's.

can you still buy the old xxx's from re? i thought they were not selling any xxx's until the new ones come out? i know they have plenty of the old ones and parts for them around, does anyone think i could talk them into selling me a pair of d4 15's?

wonderful weather we're having isnt it?

i might be able to grab a quick nap after work sat. night and hang out for a few hours sunday... anyone know what sort of drive i'd be looking at from martinsburg? i'm right by the maryland border, new to this part of the country though.

IF the weather is nice, and its not between wednesday and saturday (i work those nights 7pm to 7am) i can bring the ta down. if theres snow or even salt on the roads (chrome wheels) then no way.

600 bucks = 2 rl-p 15's