Slumpin

man, honestly. will yall let me in on this big secret as to whats wrong with eD amps?

well the nine.1 does get pretty hot, but both amps shut down at the same time, so i doubt it.

i know, upgrading to 0/1 gauge and a 4 gauge block this week, just have it that way because the 4 gauge was already run from the battery to back.

geez i didnt realize how expensive these things were... im probably going to try and get in on that group buy if they can accept a credit card. with an optimus battery, will i be alright with a 180 or should i go 200?

so whats a good alternator manufacturer? dont want to just get some autozone crap. how about a good place to score a cheap one? was looking on summitracing.com but im sure there are cheaper places.

how big of an alternator am i going to need, 200ish? planning on eventually replacing the rl-p's with either brahma or eclipse titanium 12's and running a 2nd nine.1 so want head room. better off replacing the alternator before the battery im guessing?

its an elemental designs nine.1 at 1 ohm and an OLD SCHOOL kenwood 35x4, not sure the year but i'd guess 94 or 95. couple other things i noticed while driving earlier. after they stop playing, sometimes my subs still do a little thump thump thing. isnt very loud, like they're barely playing, and its not the music i was listening to. when i shut off my deck and turn it back on, it plays the music like normal again.. i know im gonna have to probably replace alt and battery, but can a weak charging system cause those noises?

i was thinking it was probably something to do with my charging system, havent done the big 3 yet, probably do that tomorrow. i seem to have a bit of a voltage problem lol. i have an msd distributor and 6al controller, and when my bass hits it drops my rpms hard, like from 2k to 1100 or so, car jerks. hoping i dont need a new alternator but thinking i will.

when running 2 dual 4 ohm woofers to a 1 ohm load, do you have to connect the wires that go to the amp both to the same woofer? or can you put the positive on one speaker and the negative on the other?

yeah i know how to wire them up, what im asking is in the diagram there, it shows the + and - from the amp being hooked onto one speaker. since the negatives for both woofers are tied together anyhow, it makes no difference it i hook the positive wire to amp to one speaker, and the negative to the other speaker right?

muchas gracias

mucho denero...

i posted it under another post, asking if the acceleration might rip the screws out of the wood if i had the woofers inverted. WITHOUT SYSTEM it runs 12.6 on street tires, on the motor only. best time was 11.3 on spray and slicks. its also my daily driver lol. im thinking it will run 12.8ish on street tires and motor with the extra 110 lbs or so with the system in. probably get better traction off the line though with all that at the very back of my car might look a little goofy though, sitting lower in the back gonna have to try and find somewhere that will sell me a 2-2.5 inch drop in the front and 1-1.5 in the back to get it to look right

bummer... oh well... doubt my system will be very loud then (sarcasm)

even with a badass deck like mine? having 5 volt preamp outs, i kind of wonder if you dont have to give it +10 to get all its got, i wouldnt see a 600 dollar deck (if you let crutchfield rape you anyway, scored mine brand new for 330 off ebay ) distorting bad no matter what you do to it. but this is my first serious system in about 4 years so what do i know

i have read it, dont have it memorized or anything, going to read it again tomorrow. pretty sure it said no amp bass boost and not to use bass boost on the deck, but i remember seeing somewhere else that with very high end decks you can turn them up all the way and use the boost without distorition or clipping. should i post over at kenwoods forums or something and ask them about it?

i'm coming up with a lot more airspace than i thought i would out of my ta. basically i can make the box anywhere from 2.5 to 3, possibly 3.2 cubic feet, net. (this is sealed) i like deep, low bass as opposed to tight punchy. amp is an elemental designs nine.1. mike told me the sweet spot would be 1.25 to 1.35 net feet, per sub, but i asked the question thinking that i would barely be able to manage 1.25 per sub. so now that i have more options, what do you all think?

2 questions. what the hell is a soloX? and what the hell is wrong with eD amps

my car is fairly quick, runs a mid 12 second quarter mile, hits 60 in about 4 and a half seconds, and runs low 11's if i spray it... do i need to worry about the screws tearing out of the mdf having it inverted? the acceleration can be a bit violent, and i like getting after it. what do you all think?

do i need to take off the rubber surround that goes around the screwholes and flip it the other way if im going to invert them? i notice there are sort of lightning strike things on the outside of this rubber piece, looks like it sticks out enough it would let air by.

you serious? never seen a setup like that. what sort of sound would that give me, or what sort of sound would i get from inverting both?

yeah common chamber.

well the box is almost finished. once i started building it, i ended up having to make it smaller and smaller to get it to fit just right in the well of my car. right now im looking at 1.22 feet per sub, net. i think i could maybe squeeze 1.3 each out of it, without having to buy more wood, but it'll be more of a pita. do you think i'd even notice the difference in 8 hundreds of a foot, or should i just finish it at 1.22, throw in some polyfill and call it a day?

does that mean i'd be able to reach full excursion with less power? i think even all the way up my nine.1 will only give me 650 or 700 watts a piece.

i just started building my first mdf box. im using 2 1/2 inch drywall screws and the proper drill bit. everytime i try to put them in, i split the wood. are these screws to long? not drilling fast enough or what? done it 4 times so far, and i dont want to keep wasting wood.