Slumpin

im just curious, did you put a video on realm of excursion? theres a video there of an rl-p 15 playing lil jon, it sounds like from the volume of the highs that its turned up, but the sub barely moves at all. its funny, he zooms in on it, the thing looks like its getting 150 watts.

what kind of psychos are running their components with big ass mono amps?

no but thats a damned good question

probably the 12's if you're talking about the new type-r's and just spl. sq, well i havent heard the type-r's but my rl-p 12's are probably the most accurate, musical subs i've ever heard, and still get really loud. i'd say if you ported that 15 it would probably outslam those 12's if they were sealed.

right now my battery is grounded to the front of the drivers side head (which is aluminum) i get a bit of noise every now and again through the front speakers and probably inaudibly through the woofers. the passenger side head is grounded to the chassis, above the motor. its all 4 gauge. i'll get a better ground by grounding the battery directly to the chassis right? then i just leave the head grounded above the engine the way it is? i know it needs to be bare metal, but can i just ground it anywhere thats metal on the body of my car, or does it need to be directly to the frame?

i think im just going to leave the battery grounded to the motor in 4 gauge the way it is, but run 0/1 or 2 gauge also from the negative terminal straight to the back. i think i might be helping my msd ignition by having the battery grounded to the motor also, but dont want noise from it.

i dont know why it was grounded like that. i could look up the stock location in my gm service manual, but the thing is like 2000 pages long and it would take me forever. not planning on using it anyway. i have aftermarket aluminum heads, dont know why this would make any difference, but there are threaded holes in the front and back of the heads so its not a custom thing. the car is an 87 trans am i think im just going to lead the heads grounded to the chassis at the back the way they are, remove the battery ground and put it on a bare part on the body. hope i dont screw anything up

dont know if thats going to work with 0/1 gauge... might have to step down to 2. ill get all sorts of interference if i run the negative on the side the rca's are on right?

grounding the equipment itself to the battery you mean? i just run the negative wire on the same side of the car as the positive?

i can't find it anywhere, where do you all buy your polyfill?

i got mine in ok, and i'm pretty sure they are airtight, but i was wondering if there is an easier way to cut out a speaker hole? what i did was set the speakers upside down on the box where i wanted them, draw the outline, mark where the screwholes would be, then connected them with lines. at the x in the center, i nailed down a craftsman circle hole guide, and used a craftsman professional scrolling jigsaw. i dont have a compass that will go out that far, so i measured 5.5 inches from the center and marked it every half inch or so to have something to guide me. when i finished, they werent perfect circles, but where close enough i fixed them up with a small dremel drum attachment. surely there is a more accurate way?

my speakers are wired together at 1 ohm, and they've never been hooked up independently. just one of them will pop if i play really heavy bass and turn it up, when it reaches full excursion, but the other one never does. i've been using my deck boost at +5, turned up to 26/35, with the amp up all the way and amp bass boost off. if i was giving them too much power, shouldnt they both be popping? i dont know if it was doing it when i first hooked it up, i hadnt played it at full volume with the hatch open until today. it isnt noticeable if im inside the car, the bass overwhelms it. i've been keeping my deck turned down to 23-25 so that it doesnt do it, but id like to be able to turn them both up the same. does it sound like a need a reconing already? how much does that service run?

not yet, still have to get some terminals for it. audio shops around here are lame and dont have 0/1 gauge terminals, so i had to order some. haven't forgotten about you, just had to get caught up on my credit bills i had from being on disability since march. went back to work about a month ago but just last week got my for 10 week disability check, so i wanted to pay off all the ones with interest, and this week i had to make my car payment. i'll get something your way next thursday. thanks again for the awesome deal and shipping, i think i had it 3 days after paying. i dont think they are underdrive pulleys. my a/c and AIR (emissions) gear has been removed. the crank pulley has 1 v-belt straight to the power steering, and a second, not so wide one that drives the water pump and alternator. both are good and tight. as far as i know, my vacuum is fine. i havent checked it in a few months, but it still idles fine low, and accelerates evenly. but i can give it a check, im off until thursday. believe me, i dont get as good of mileage on the highway. to drive 75ish (not sure because my speedo is set for 3.42 gears so it says 120 instead of 75 lol) the rpms sit right at 24-2500. usually i drive about 65 on the interstate, and still get about 22-2300 rpm. i'd guess cruising at 70 i get maybe 10-12 mpg. i dont want to do anything that might hurt the alternator, going to wait to hear what nathan has to say.

i put in my new 200 amp from the group buy at ca.com forums. when over 950 rpm or so, it is awesome, rarely ever drops from 13.5 volts and when it does, not under 13. (going by my dash gauge anyhow) under 950 though, the voltage will drop almost to the red, to around 9.. red is at 7.5 or 8. having the stereo up drops it almost another half volt. either way, that is way low voltage. i could just turn my idle rpm up to 950 but it would burn more gas, and i like the rumble of a healthy v8 idling around 700 rpm. i do not have my optima yellow top in yet, waiting on terminals. im using an old, cheap, autozone battery, with 4 gauge run to the back split into 2 8 gauge wires. no cap or anything like that, just the big 3 in 4 gauge. will it improve with my optima, if not, will a cap store enough from driving to keep the voltage up at idle? anything else i can do to raise idle output?

its no good at all to run my amps hard on low voltage right? just hit att. everytime i stop?

i think i'd notice it, 93 octane goes for 2.59 a gallon right now, and my car gets about 15-16 mpg in town, probably less on the highway with 4.10 gears. besides, i like the way the engine sounds idling low, lot of cam, sounds nasty through the 3 inch hooker headers and catback. i'll email nate about it and see what he says

i would love to get one, was eyeballing them yesterday actually, but i think 2 nine.1's would be almost as powerful thing is, i like the looks of the nine.1, and i want to be able to hide my amp/s. the 2500 is huge, isnt the thing like 2 feet long? i dont want some massive ass amp that takes up my whole deck behind the seats and screams steal me right underneath my back hatch glass. i can't think of anywhere else to mount them other than the back seats, which fold down but are splits, 2 pieces that fold down. also i dont really know how to securely mount an amp in a seat so that it wont fall out or start a fire. the nine.1 can be stacked, so it looks like sort of like just 1 amp, if you're peeking through dark tinted glass. im getting a compustar 900fm alarm put in tuesday, but i can't stop thinking how it would only take a couple of seconds to bash out my rear window, unscrew my amps and make off with them. the subs, hell if you can get that box out of the car, even after you rip open the entire hatch to do it, you've more than earned it i know you're going to say build an amp rack, and i play on it, but i think a 2500d would take up most of the space. there is 41 inches from one side to the other of my hatch, minus 1.5 inches for mdf, and i'm working with 39.5 inches long, maybe 15-20 inches front to back, and i still have to fit a smaller amp to run my highs in there. i was planning on making a flip up, lockable top for it, with some nice cabinet hinges or something, attaching it to the speaker box, and carpeting the whole thing. i'd have major problems with the amps overheating if i put them in a sealed, carpeted mdf enclosure right, even if i drill vent holes?

i'm thinking of getting a second eD nine.1. they're 900 watts stable at 2 ohm, and 1200 at 1 ohm. if possible i'd like to run them both at one ohm, im pretty sure i have the electrical system for it. question is, if i wire a dual 4 ohm voice coil sub by itself to the amp its either at 4 or 2 ohms right? no way to get 1 ohm load from a single d4 woofer? could someone maybe give me a crash course in wiring? i think i would need d2 woofers to get 1 ohm from 1 speaker right?

not noticably different. but the same one still starts bottoming out before the other one, when its really pounding some low bass. today i turned up the sub output on my deck to +8 and turned the amp down to between 3/5 and 3/4. sounds nice, good and loud and doesnt bottom out. the amp came with a remote gain switch so i can play with it as im driving, going to try +10 and a little lower tomorrow. i think i'll probably end up with it at +7 and the amp a little higher though, doesnt seem right having a crappy charging system and battery, 4 gauge wire split into 8 gauge to the amp, with an amp rated a 1200 watts 3/4 of the way up, and pounding the hell out of 2 750 watt 12's.

think i might have found the problem i was watching my subs play with the hatch open earlier, and noticed they were actually popping on the high bass notes. i check the crossover on my nine.1 on its set at probably 130. my deck was set to 80 hz under eq/sub and i just assumed the deck cut off everything over 80 so i turn it down, and play the song i noticed it the most on, and now it sounds fine. probably crossed over at 80-85ish now. bloody non labeled ed dials still the same question though, why one speaker and not the other? minor manufacturing differences where one can take more punishment than another? right now i've been playing it at 25 and 26 out of 35 with the sub control on the deck at +4. the amp gain is just slightly under full and the bass boost is off. did i do serious damage to the woofer by playing that stuff through it loud, and will it just come back if i keep playing under 80 hz loud? commense flamage

i thought eD's were underrated? like a lot? what does it cost for a reconing?

what do you mean by wired in phase? i've got all the positives and negatives where they need to be if thats what you mean.

i set up the gains with the dmm and the sub bass at +5. says in the tutorial to max your head unit sub level, mines at 5 out of 10. said i shouldnt clip if i take the square root of my rms power, and dont exceed that. it shouldnt clip no matter how my gains and boosts are set up as long as it doesnt exceed the voltage right? i did 1200 squared and came up with i think 34.6 or 34.8, it rarely passes 33.5 and never passes 34.6. that was on a 45 hz test tone, but ive done it with a few music cd's too. i have both negatives and both positives wired to their respective terminals on the other voice coils, with one of the positives and one of the negatives joined to the other woofer. the + and - from the amp wire, i have the + going to one + terminal on one speaker, and the - going to the negative on the other one. i just followed a fosgate diagram i saw on here, for 1 ohm, and its the same other than in the picture the + and - from the amp were both hooked up to one speaker. can someone tell me what this wiring is called? parallel series?

i did set it up using the dmm method. and its a sealed box, common chamber, not ported. its a 1200 watt amp on 2 subs that are known to take more than 1000 watts each, and love it.

i've got 2 rl-p's with 1.3 ft^3 each, maybe a few hundredths of a foot less. i put in about 30 or 35 oz of polyfill. i just kind of stuffed it in there whole. am i supposed to tear off smaller pieces before packing it? is 30-35 oz about the right amount? thats net volume, speakers factored in. might be as little as 1.2 net, i never worked the exact numbers for the final dimensions i went with.