altoncustomtech
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45
Posts posted by altoncustomtech
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Excellent guy to buy from.
Thank you sir.
C'mon, you know you want that Audison......
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The JBL GTO1004 and the Diamond D3 subs are SOLD!!
Bump for the rest of the stuff.....
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PM replied, JBL GTO1004 and Diamond Subs are spoken for!
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Thanks brother, I'm hoping someone has a use for this stuff. Most of it has been sitting in the corner of my office at work for a year or more since I bought it, lol.
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I've got some stuff from my hoard of car audio that I'm certain that I'm not going to be using anytime soon and I'm fairly certain that no one I know close to me is going to need it either. So instead of it sitting and going to waste I may as well sell it to someone who can and will use it and put the money to good use elsewhere.
First up:
A used Audison SR2 two channel amplifier. It has all the accessories it came with and looks as though it was very gently used. I wanted to keep it but it probably won't ever get used so out it goes to someone who can use it. All the original mounting screws and the screws for the plastic cover are poked into the styrofoam and no I haven't hooked it up while I've had it.
$100 shipped$90 SHIPPED
Second:
A used Sundown Audio SA-15 sub with D2 coil configuration. I hooked it up to play with my DATS when I first got it, it's not been on an amp or in a box. It still feels tight and doesn't have any coil rub or discoloration to the coil at all. It was shipped to me in the original styrofoam but without the original box, only a bunch of cardboard panels that were taped together and that immediately fell apart when I opened it. I will find a proper box for it to ship in before I ship it out to whomever buys it.
$125 + shipping (this thing is heavy!)$115 + SHIPPING (It's still heavy)
Third:
Here is a pair of BNIB Diamond Audio D3 10" Dual 2 ohm subwoofers. They're brand new, never hooked up, never mounted in an enclosure and only out of the boxes for inspection and pictures. These retailed for ~$140+ each so this should be a great price.
$150 + shippingSOLD
Fourth:
This is a BNIB Blues Audio BA1-1000 monoblock subwoofer amp. It's rated at 500wrms @ 4 ohms and 1,000wrms @ 2 ohms. This hasn't been hooked up or out of the box for anything but pictures. It's a cheap little Chinese built amp but it does have some weight to it and I would imagine it's no worse than any other Chinese amp of similar build and ratings.
$100 shipped$90 SHIPPED
Last but not least:
Another BNIB amplifier, the JBL GTO1004 4 channel amp. It's rated at 100wrms x 4 @ 4ohms, 150wrms x 4 @ 2 ohms and 300wrms x 2 bridged at 4 ohms. This amp hasn't been hooked up at all either and has only been out of the box for pictures.
$140 shippedSOLD
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How about the Massive Audio Nano series??
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/search?keyword=Massive+audio+nano&Submit=
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Gotta love it when things work out that way (ie loving this over the last setup). I am looking forward to seeing how the finished product turns out.
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I LOVE the fleece you're using!! It could be cool if you could see it after everything was done, but then again I'm kind of a nerd that way.
I can't wait to show this build off to some of the local guys. I sure wish I could get them to join the forum, I know they'd enjoy it just for your builds let alone all the rest of the site.
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Yeah I hated taking off and being gone this long but it was definitely necessary.
Yes the local college here has that show every year. I'll get a date for it posted up as soon as I get it. We also have car shows a few times a year put on by the Hoosier Cruisers car club. Although the club focuses mainly on classics they invite anyone with anything to the shows. The next one of their shows is the weekend of August 15th.
Thanks for the compliment on the build.
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Thanks guys. It's gonna feel great to be contributing again. With some of the fabrication work I had to teach myself recently I should be able to contribute in a few more areas as well.
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Thanks man, I really appreciate it.
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And last but least, this weekend I got started on the amp rack. I shaped the front of the rack to match the width of the center console for the front seats to help it look a little more like it belongs there. I placed the Harmony DSP at the front to take the signals in from the HU and distribute them accordingly. I am putting the subwoofer amp in the middle simply to keep the ground and power runs to it as absolutely short as possible. The battery is located behind the passenger seat and under the floor so it's not far away at all to start with but I want the ground as short as possible so that's where it will be at. Finally the four channel amp will be behind the sub amp.
Gotta love flush trim bits!
And here's the basic layout.
That's everything up to now.
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After over a dozen layers of fiberglass the enclosures were finally ready. I dropped the woofers in and tested the strength of the enclosures every so often. With 14 layers of glass on them the fiberglass didn't move at any frequency I played with over 100 watts of power driving them. Between pressure from the wife and being COMPLETELY burned out doing the work on the fiberglass I deemed that test good enough and began to work on getting the enclosures and the speakers put into the truck.
I applied the CCF foam that I had put behind the door card on the driver's door to the back of the enclosures (so as not to go to waste) to help prevent any possibility of rattles between the wood of the enclosure and the door panel and did so on both enclosures.
Here's how the enclosures turned out looking after the fiberglass was done.
As you can see they're still a good fit in the door card. I also took this opportunity to get the wires ran to all the appropriate locations.
Finally, onto mounting everything to the doors. I couldn't figure out a good way to temporarily attach the enclosure to the door card and I couldn't figure out a better way to make a better way to shape the door for the finishing fiberglass work than expanding foam. Then it kinda hit me, it seemed like the best answer for both. The foam can glue the enclosures into place inside the door card and give me the foundation I need to put finishing layers of fiberglass down to smooth everything out and (hopefully) make it look like the doors could have been made from the factory like this. I put plastic behind the door cards when I put them back on the doors to keep the foam from attaching to the door itself. Then I got to filling all the voids with foam.
After the foam had finished setting up I took a knife and some sandpaper and began to work on removing the excess foam and rough shaping it.
Finally here it is with the Bravox CS603CF 3 way component set installed. It still boggles my mind how large these enclosures ended up, how little space there is between everything, and nothing rubs anywhere. I got so lucky on this that it still makes my mind spin when I look back at how much work has gone into this and how much of that work was simply all I could figure out to do with it given the circumstances I was dealing with.
The speakers sound amazing. I mean absolutely amazing. The bass response is so phenomenal I have to remind myself that the subs aren't installed yet and they're still only on HU power. They do so at every volume level from barely audible to right at the limit of the internal amp in the HU they come across smooth, detailed and balanced. All the work to make this a custom installation seems to have been worth all the time, effort and money to make it happen. I can't wait to get the last of the fiberglass work done (when the insane heat and humidity finally breaks) and hopefully get this thing showed off to some of you at the big shows.
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So, now it's time for the fiberglass. While I have used fiberglass before to repair a few tanks, dock floats, etc. none of them had to look good when they were done and none of them were done like this. I was able to ask around a little before starting what kind of fiberglass products to use and get a few tips and pointers. I feel that information was paramount to the outcome of this project. If it weren't for the fella's who gave me that information this would have undoubtedly been a disaster. I picked up some good stretchy fabric to use for the base and some 435 polyester resin and some 7725 Twill fiberglass cloth from US Composites. While I'm no fiberglass expert I think the products from USC are without a doubt better than anything I could have picked up locally and definitely better than I had used in the past.
I got the stretchy fabric the wife had picked up at Jo-Ann crafts stretched over the enclosures and stapled down tight, or at least I thought it was tight enough. One of those little things you learn from experience is that the fabric has to be SUPER TIGHT to work. Once the weight of the resin was on the fabric it began to droop and I quickly pulled it tight enough to hold straight across the expanse of the enclosure and stapled it back down. That lesson was learned at the expense of my stapler, lol. It didn't work so good after getting resin in the chute where the staples come out. That in turn created a bunch of wrinkles that weren't present before the resin application and therefore I did my best to smooth it out and applied the fiberglass cloth over those spots to keep everything in good shape. It seems to have worked out.
While I was applying layers of fiberglass to the enclosures I was able to work on the exact locations and aiming for the tweeter and the midrange and got those mounting rings glued into place.
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I didn't have much room to work with and with space at a premium in this case I used a high grade 1/2" hardwood plywood to create the backbone/frame of the enclosure. I had to slowly and methodically measure, cut and test fit every piece of every panel of the walls on the enclosure to ensure it would work and fit.
I couldn't miss out on a single cubic inch of available space so I worked out kerfing one of the top panels to follow the curve of the door card.
After getting that far I had to work out the aiming on the woofers. I also wanted to make sure that if I ever had to change the drivers out in the future that the aiming would (very hopefully) be adequate for those drivers as well since this woofer only plays up to 800hz. I aimed the drivers for the middle of the vehicle, directly between the front seat head rests. I did that because if I tried to turn the driver's side woofer up to where it would aim directly at the driver the woofer would not fit up high on the door. It would interfere with the dash and the part of the door card where the window controls and such was also in the way and would had to have been modified and I just couldn't come up with a good way to do that either. I had good luck in the van with the center aiming and with a little testing it seemed to be okay in the Traverse so that's what I went with.
At this point I had to start worrying about how I was going to finish the enclosure. I used some of the same grade plywood in 3/4" thickness to top and follow the walls of the enclosure so that I had something to round over and give a smoother finish to the fiberglass. I used some Inifnity Reference One bookshelf speakers I have early on to do a little testing on placements and such as they are the smallest speakers I own in the house, lol. I found then that aiming them with the port firing into the foot area under the dash resulted in an amazing response boost in the lower registers. Without the enclosures already built and any way to test how it would work for these speakers I decided to try it for the Bravox woofers and these enclosures. So I put the port opening directly below the woofer aiming forward into the foot well.
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Wow. Things have came a long way since I made the last post here. At that point the entire install was to be as close to a stealth install as possible. The tweeters were going to go in the factory locations and the midranges were going to go into the sail panels. What was worse was the woofers were going to go into the factory location, albeit with their own strong baffles, but still a tired and old way of doing things sticking them wherever was convenient or easy. Right after this things started to get a little crazy in my life. I couldn't get any work done on anything and it didn't let up through the winter. Eventually early this spring the shit hit the proverbial fan and I had to make some big changes.
Plans changed on the Traverse around that time as well. My wife got tired of waiting for it to get done so we had a good long talk about the plans for it and what the plans entailed. We opted to go a little different route on the doors than the semi-stealth install that was originally settled upon. As a matter of fact, what we decided to do couldn't hardly have been more the opposite of stealth. Custom fiberglass work, custom aiming and mounting locations, real ported enclosures for the woofers and all that jazz is what was decided. As you can see in the pictures below the custom locations are still on the doors.
And so the plan was born... I wanted the speakers close enough that they all played well together and high enough to keep the stage up on the dash. I also wanted the best midbass output I could get from the woofers and after modeling them I found that a .5 cuft ported enclosure tuned to 65hz with a 2" port and with a 50hz @ 24dB slope gave the best response and kept the driver under the best control, the least amount of port noise and the most output under those circumstances. Finding even just .5 cuft of space on these doors was quite a challenge and everything about it took me right out of my comfort zone. I did more testing, test fitting, and rethinking than I have on any other build I've done.
To make room for the enclosure the entire bottom of the door card had to be cut out/off. The top corner of the door card was cut out to make room for midrange and tweeter mounting.
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As the title states, it's great to be back on here. Family, work, and the universe has had my life in quite the uproar the last few months. So much so that I withdrew from online life almost completely so I could concentrate on taking care of the business at hand. Things are still busier and more hectic than usual but it has slowed down enough that I feel I can spend additional time doing some of the more superfluous things I did before such as spending time on the forums.
That being said I've still been active with my hobbies, including audio. When I stopped visiting the forums I had only vague ideas and almost no work done on my wife's Traverse. I can finally say that there's more done on it before I left. I've helped several people get some great work done on their systems here and even had to repair one of the PR's in my Jimmy recently when the adhesive that glued the surround to the cone failed. All these things have taken place during the smallest of lulls in the madness, lol. Even though I've gotten a fair bit of work done on my wife's Traverse it still has a very long way to go.
For anyone who's interested I have stumbled upon a website that I think is pretty neat. It's a site a lot like Cardomain and other sites of the sort but with less clutter and the handy feature of hosting pictures that can be linked to like Photobucket. Here's my CarProfile.io garage for anyone who's interested. All four of my vehicles are in there with all the same pictures as that exist in the build logs on here, except the Traverse. I'll be updating the build log on it here shortly.
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so because the "bridging" is using 1 rail of each channel, each rail will see half of the load. so a 2 ohm sub load being bridged would make each rail see 1ohm.
that is how its being explained.
This is accurate, however that's not saying the LOAD itself is changing, just how the amplifier is seeing the load.
2 ohms is still 2 ohms, 1 ohm is still 1 ohm, but that's why a stereo amp is 2 ohm stable in stereo and 4 ohm stable bridged because when it's bridged each rail is essentially only seeing half the load. The actual load doesn't change, only the way the amp perceives the load.
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The wheels look fantastic!
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theyre sealed right now. i did think about makeing a new at least for the summer which i still may i got the wood aitting there. but i just went to a park n pound sunday heard some similar set ups and thought its nice but i think i want more than that. ive only ever ran 12's before and i had 1 10 before but never 15's.
Nothing wrong with wanting to try something new, but I think you'd be thoroughly surprised at the difference in output from those subs in a good ported enclosure.
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Looking good!
It's definitely hard to get much done during spring break. The kids definitely eat up a lot of time, but it's worth every second!
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For Sale - Audison SR2, Sundown SA15, Blues Audio, Crescendo Audio
in For Sale/Wanted
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I remember you stating so whenever I bought it and posted the pics of it on here.....