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altoncustomtech

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Posts posted by altoncustomtech

  3. Posted

    What sub is in the sealed enclosure that you’re referencing?  I’m not sure about this version of the E series but the lack of upper range is a common complaint with several the other Sundown lines as Manzkea mentioned.

    Your thoughts on cabin gain could also be part of the problem although all vehicles have cabin gain.  It could be a combination of what you’re used to hearing from the sealed setup, weaker upper response from the sub and the enclosure tuning/cabin gain adding to the effect.  Have you tried using the EQ to lower the bottom end output to help even out the response?

     

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  5. Posted

    3 hours ago, SS Teacher said:

    It was $200, controlled by Bluetooth, and tiny.  I'd have preferred processing for the sub and 31 bands of EQ but couldn't find anything that didn't need a PC or cost under $400.  If I'd run active in the past and/or had a PC I probably would have gone with a Mini DSP, but this was my first time going active and needed to keep it simple.  I'm kinda bummed that Soundstream and PPI stopped making their $200 processors.

    Don’t be too bummed, I got a couple of the SoundStream Harmony units. They’re better than nothing but they have a number of limitations and bugs that make them a real pain in the ass. 

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  6. Posted · Edited by altoncustomtech

    2 hours ago, Infinite913 said:

    Your intentions are 100 percent in the right place so my vote would be its fine. Thanks Alton.

    Thank you sir.  I’ve read through it a few times and I think it’s great info for getting started tuning an active system with a DSP. As is stated in the tutorial there’s more to do after finishing these steps but this seems to lay a very solid foundation to work from. 

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  7. Posted

    I thought I’d share this here. The writer goes through great length to explain the why’s and how’s of time alignment in a stereo system. He explains comb filtering, phase issues and alignment, crossover settings and so forth. Plus he does it in a manner that pretty much anyone with just a little bit of background or experience on the subject can understand. 

     

    http://www.audiofrog.com/community/tech-tips/time-alignment-part-one/

    http://www.audiofrog.com/community/tech-tips/time-alignment-part-2/

    http://www.audiofrog.com/community/tech-tips/time-alignment-part-three-delays-and-crossovers-for-tweeters-and-mids/

    http://www.audiofrog.com/community/tech-tips/time-alignment-part-4-getting-the-bass-right/

    http://www.audiofrog.com/community/tech-tips/time-alignment-part-5-putting-it-all-together/

     

    Please forgive me if I’m wrong to link out to another manufacturer’s website forum. If so I will go through the trouble of copy/pasting the content. 

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  10. Posted · Edited by altoncustomtech

    I agree with Jared.  

    What are your enclosure limitations??  Do you have room for a 15” or a pair of 12’s?  Sonicelectronix still has a BOGO sale on the NVX XQW 12” subs, you can grab a pair for $200. They’re built by SB Acoustics, a very SQ oriented company, for NVX. Just throwing that out there.

    Don’t get hung up so much on the numbers, such as power handling. It doesn’t determine how loud a driver gets or how good it sounds or anything else of the sort. The enclosure design is the determining factor for a subwoofers performance. 

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  11. Posted

    13 hours ago, j-roadtatts said:

    I have a week of ear play with the Evil tweeters installed and it's been stellar!! First played some Juice Newton, as her voice is angelic. Then Eagles Hotel California, again amazing reproduction.  Then listened to the Darkside of the Moon album and the detail was immaculate!  Beyond that I have not been able to stop listening to jazz on them.  Very open sounding, crystal-clear, no airiness and non fatiguing to the ears!!!!!!

    This is SO awesome to read!  I can’t wait to get to playing with mine!  

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  13. Posted

    I truly enjoy the ported enclosures I built for the Bravox woofers in the 3 way components I installed in my Traverse. They only need a sub for tracks with lots of emphasis <=45hz. That’s with a .5cuft enclosure tuned to 65hz. 

    Youre really gonna love this testing, it’s a blast!!

    Just for reference this is how big the .5cuft enclosures ended up.

     

    6D148126-86F6-47FD-A9B7-C9B1F042CFCC.jpeg

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  14. Posted

    4 hours ago, j-roadtatts said:

    Does anyone have recommendations of upper tier SQ competition cars of any era I can look to for reference? 

    Not without looking hard elsewhere online. The SQ communities are fairly small and hard to find. I swore I’d never recommend going to Facebook instead of this forum but I don’t know of a larger community of SQ folks than the SSQ (Strictly Sound Quality) group. Asking there would probably be a best first shot after the forum here. 

    2

  15. Posted

    20 minutes ago, j-roadtatts said:

    Funny thing is over here on the SQ side, ppl run 3-4 times RMS power to their drivers. BUT to gain a greater dynamic range in frequency response for split bursts, not all out continuous SPL.

    Definitely.  I’m currently running 300wrms to each door of my Traverse with Bravox CS603CF components in it that are rated for 125wrms. Brad (impious) was running 600wrms to each side of his when running the same set. The difference it makes in handling those dynamic bursts is simply incredible.

     It’s so easy to get caught up in all the numbers and power ratings are numbers that people worry so much about but in reality they mean little to nothing as long as a person understands what they’re doing in such a situation. 

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  17. Posted

    2 hours ago, ///M5 said:

    There is no active crossover in the 9903.  I gave up on finding anything that does that.  The unicorn doesn't exist.

    For high frequency fill the Dayton ND20 would save you money and not kill a bunch of what you don't need...depending on the mid mounting and choice.  When you say enclosure how much volume can it have?

    I like the Dayton ND20 recommendation. I’m currently using a pair of them in my sons truck and they are incredible for the price. 

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  18. Posted

    Welcome to the forum!

     

    You’re definitely right about the amount of knowledge available here. Best forum there is and the SSA products are all truly great. I’ve used several of the subs and the mids and have had nothing but positive experiences with all them. They sell quite a number of other quality brands in the store as well. 

    Your budget is a great place to start, though I would HIGHLY recommend leaving or making room for sound deadening treatment. The difference it makes is incomparable to any other upgrade you can perform. Read up on it at the best source for such information, www.sounddeadeningshowdown.com

    SDS has top notch products but even if you decide not to use his products the information he has available there is invaluable. 

    2

  20. Posted

    Here’s a great set of instructions for correctly setting your SSF that was originally posted right here on this forum!

     

    The best way to set your SSF correctly only takes a few minutes and all you need is test tones or a tone generator app to perform the procedure. First thing to do is turn your SSF all the way DOWN to ensure it doesn't interfere with the first step. 

     

    Start off playing a tone/frequency about 10 to 15hz higher than the frequency your enclosure is supposed to be tuned to. Now turn up the volume enough to easily see the sub(s) moving. Now go change the frequency down 1hz at a time, each time watch the movement of the subs. As you go down in frequency you're looking for the sub(s) to be moving the LEAST amount. When you see it/them move the least then start moving more again you've passed the tuning frequency. You'll need to switch frequencies up and down until you're sure at which frequency you see the LEAST movement. 

     

    Note that frequency as it is your ACTUAL tuning frequency. Now pick a frequency that is 3 to 5hz lower than the tuning frequency and turn it up again enough to see the movement of your sub(s) very easily. Turn the SSF up until you see the sub(s) moving right at half as much as as it/they were before you adjusted the SSF up.

     

    Your SSF is now properly adjusted. It takes a little bit of back and forth to get it right but this way you know with certainty it's done right.

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  22. Posted

    11 hours ago, ///M5 said:

    What you forgot is that said guy has a set of ridiculously ballsy but expensive small format tweeters.

    My only concern with anything in response to your needs is that your listening habits are at much higher levels than mine.  Of course I drove home tonight after dropping off a colleague at near full tilt....

     

     

    ...listening to 2 acoustic guitarists

     

    Which 2 acoustic guitarists, I know a few acoustic duo groups....

     

    Brother, my sampling of drivers is pretty small in comparison to the others commenting so I’ve been watching and reading but I think the logic in finding a ballsy low Fs tweeter sounds like a viable solution. I sure wish I could tell you about the Evil 1’s but I am unfortunately awaiting word on another aspect of my build before I can/will install the rest of it. They’ve got an awesome low Fs and it seems like everyone has really liked them so far. 

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  23. Posted

    1 minute ago, Aaron Clinton said:

    3 people have jumped on this little special, hopefully more will before Friday.

    I think you know from past conversations that if I could I’d be buying everything in the SSA brand, lol. I still recommend SSA to everyone I talk car audio with. 

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  24. Posted

    I ran a pair of 10” DCON’s on an Arc XDi2000 at one ohm, 2.5x their rated power in a bad sealed enclosure. Never hurt them thermally but did cause a little trouble mechanically. The prefab sealed enclosure started to come apart. 

    I honestly feel that if the enclosure hadn’t started to leak they would probably have been just fine. Like I said I never hurt them thermally, the coils still look like new. 

    As a result I started designing a ported enclosure around using them on my SAZ-2000 in my Grand Prix. According to the modeling, with 25hz tuning and an enclosure slightly larger than the maximum recommended size they should handle the power mechanically. By manipulating the enclosure size and tuning I managed to put the drivers’ peak impedance right where the xmax peaks allowing them to not exceed their rated xmax even on 2.5x rated power. 

    Of course it’s all theory and modeling so real world results are going to vary to a point but I plan on trying it out at least. My point is that if everything is good with the voltage, clipping, distortion, etc. I wouldn’t be nearly as worried about thermal damage especially if you’re talking a single 8k on the two subs, you’re only 500 watts over with the ratings and that’s never going to even be noticeable. 

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