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altoncustomtech

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Posts posted by altoncustomtech

  2. Posted

    Some good time back a topic was started that had a few really good background images posted up but nothing else was ever really added. 

    Is there a possibility of starting another one and getting some new up to date images posted up and perhaps some for mobile devices as well??

     I do love the image of the ZCONs I've been using for awhile but it would be great to have some nice new ones to shuffle through, especially on my phone. 

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  3. Posted

    34 minutes ago, NM^3 said:

    I found SSA by searching for answers on google, just random questions and a lot of times I can find the answers on SSA so I decided to join.

    That's awesome!  I've been a member for quite a few years now. When I joined here I was a member of several other forums as well but it didn't take long to realize that this one was far better than the others. I kept my accounts on the others but focused my time and attention here. 

    I hope you find it as great a place as I have!!

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  10. Posted

    My brother in law is using my IA6.4 on his Peerless HDS miss and XT25 tweeters ran active by his Clarion CZ702. It's got more than enough power for the job, is super clean and clear, and sounds very transparent. Definitely a top quality amp and well worth the price. It's really hard to tap the amp out, the mids typically start complaining well before the amp seems as though it's running out of steam. 

    I have listened to a couple of the US Acoustics Barbara Ann's as well and they seemed like great amps too. 

    Really anything from a reputable company that fits your budget and space/size requirements will serve you well. No need to get hung up on names, models or the numbers.

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  12. Posted

    Fi built the passive radiators I'm using in my Jimmy to match my XCON after getting Aaron and Marks blessing. I'm certain they could build some for you but it will definitely take a lot more time and probably cost more as well. If you can get the PSI's faster and for a reasonable price I would. 

    I beat myself up trying to figure the weight needed to get the tuning I wanted as well. The problem was that I didn't have any known T/S or any data at all for the PR's to do any useful calculations. I ended up mounting them backwards and tuning them. The subwoofer cone movement works the same with PR's as it does with a standard ported enclosure. The sub moves the least amount at the tuning frequency. I added weight and adjusted until it was tuned ever so slightly lower than my target frequency. Then I used a little bit of silicone to help ensure the bolt wouldn't back out then mounted them correctly. 

    They're still running great about 3 years later and the tuning frequency is still right where I had adjusted it to (30hz). I wish you were closer so I could demo it for you. I absolutely LOVE the way it sounds as does everyone I have given a demo to. 

    I'm not certain that how I did it is perfectly correct but it worked fine for me. 

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  13. Posted

    What they said ^^^.

     

    Also, that time is typically only an approximation. They generally take about that long, every once in a great while it will be a little quicker but don't be the least bit surprised if it takes a little longer. Also remember that the approximate time is "Business Days", that's based on a five day week. These are built completely by hand, the motor is machined from a block of steel AFTER you place your order. It takes time to build it from scratch as they're done. Patience is key. Use the time to make sure everything else is ready for it so that all you should have to do is mount it and go!

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  14. Posted

    Looking down into the gap with a flashlight of some sort and sliding something flat and long enough to reach the bottom to feel for and help remove the crud is about the only way it can be done.  Plus an air compressor or similar to help blow the little bits out. 

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  15. Posted

    My wife locked a pair of Hifonics Brutus subs so bad that to this day they've still not broke loose. Even after messing with them occasionally over the last 7 or 8 years. I've not torn them apart yet but I would imagine that they would have to have the coils picked out in pieces as well.

    Good luck with them though. 

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  18. Posted

    22 minutes ago, Billy Jack said:

    The fuse has nothing to do with how hard your alternator runs, that's the job of the voltage regulator in older cars, and the pcm in newer cars. Basically the alt does what the regulator, or pcm,tells it to do. If the pcm see's low voltage, it will demand more out of the alt, and when it see's a resting 14.4volts, it will make it run just enough to keep a steady voltage. All fuses are for, is a safe guard against shorts, or voltage spikes, so nothing catches fire, they don't restrict, or control anything except braking the chain of juice, if to much is traveling through them. 

    Shorts definitely, voltage spikes not so much. The fuse cares less about the voltage applied but it is affected by the current flowing through it. 

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  19. Posted

    I'm hoping they get them back soon myself!!  I've used the DCON's in several different builds over the years, a couple very recently, and I absolutely love them. Very very solid performing subs with outstanding good sound and output to match. I have another build or two they would be perfect for. 

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  21. Posted

    Basically, yeah. I didn't hold anything back on my 10" XCON and it's been going strong now for over three years. :D

    As far as how long it can take, sometimes it's quicker and sometimes it's not but I would guess you'll be getting them before much longer. You have to remember that these are built to order, from blank steel, and assembled from scratch. When the build house is busy it can take awhile and you placed your order right around world finals so they're probably working hard to catch up from that. 

    Believe me it's worth the wait. 

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  23. Posted

    When you measure resistance with your meter that's exactly what you're measuring D.C. resistance. D.C. current resistance is not the same as AC impedance. Impedance changes with the frequency of AC being being applied and depending on the speaker system can rise 3 to 4 times (or more) of the rated impedance or the measured D.C. Resistance. 

    If you use ohms law and take the voltage and current that was measured to calculate the power that was applied and calculate the resistance you'll probably find it a fair bit higher than 2.2 ohms. 

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  25. Posted

    People also generally just do not understand that matching RMS ratings, wiring below the rated impedance of the amp, or replacing their 2000 watt amp with a 3000 watt is simply not really gaining them much, if anything at all. And yes I used to believe it too. 

    Doubling power only gains a theoretical 3db of output, barely any real audible difference. Often times the gain is not even close to that much.  Using more power to try to make gains in output is the most expensive and least efficient way to do so.  Generally when it comes to output cone area is king followed by proper and/or efficient enclosure design and construction. 

    I know you weren't asking about it in this particular aspect but I still felt it was worth mentioning. 

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