Hell-Razor

they have a 2000 passat. Ill just wait until I can find an accurate diagram. Not worth it to screw that up.

good idea!

No idea. Ill find out for you though when I start putting all this in.

Also when people get 3500rms amps they (most of the time) are you using all of that power. I have a 3500D to a single 15" dc level 5 and it will be able to handle the power just fine. Even though I will probably only be giving it 2500 until I go to comps.

Well I am not sure what I want here. The level 5 15" woofer can come with several different type of coils -- d.7 d1 d1.4 or d2. If I get d2 then I can wire it to 1 ohm, but then why not just get the d1? Or could I not wire that to 1ohm and it would be pushed to .5 ohms (which I would not prefer doing seeing as SAZ are unstable below .9 ohms I believe). Oh and I am using a SAZ-3500D on a single level 5 15"

.

FINALLY! I have an update -- Alternator and batteries and cd player and front end speakers going in this week sometime. Woofer being shipped hopefully by friday.

I was told from the guy at Excessive Amperage that the alts will not charge unless it needs to. Even if the belt is running it will not be charging if your battery(s) are full. I don't know how it does this but I would take the owners word for it.

Alright. Somebody just posted earlier on that power wire or the wake up wire running next to rca cables may cause the "buzzing" noise whenever you turn the car on or push on the gas peddle. Somebody else also said that this is a rumor. I had this buzzing in my other car as well whenever pushed on the gas... So I figure it was run too close together but it looks like it may be another problem.

I got cheaper 0 gauge wire so I would think its not meant to be outside in the cold. It gets to -40 here in the winter and one drop of water in that line = bye bye electronics

Yeah I like this gear. I hope it will be as good as I am expecting....Well I am asking some advice here. I know absolutly nothing about cars sooo how do I tell somebody that works professionally on cars that he is mistaken about the alternator? Also I told him you should be able to run the cabling inside the car and he says its way too big. Anybody else have some advice on how I can take out the floor panel by the door to see if 2x zero gauge wires will fit? Id love to see somebody post some pictures of their wiring coming out of their dash even if theyre hidden. I am just looking for some help here cause this is what I was told. Also the mechanic is a good friend of my parents. He does work for super super cheap. I think my dad got new breaks and a muffler installed for 50$ and a case of beer. I know he konws what he is doing but not 100% sure on it and I think thats the problem. And he is also worried about frying everything. I will email the owner of excessive amperage just to double check (not like I dont believe you guys, but more people saying installing the alt to a stock bat and then doing + to + and - to - will be alright will hel[p me out). Well I think thats enough for now... Oh -- what could cause noise? I want to run the wake up wire with the power then RCA's elsewhere, correct? (If I remember correctly its the wake up cable and the RCA's that cause engine noise)

Ran into a few issues here. For one I was talking with my mechanic. He told me that he is going to have to modify the alternator because it wont connect like it would normally. He thinks the needs to run the zero gauge wire from the alternator to the second battery instead of how its connected now because its too much power for any one battery to handle. Is this true? He kept on telling me that " I think this alt is made for a two battery setup. So it may be too much power to just give a single battery and expect the computer in the car to be alright". The modifcation will be to the output section so its charging both batteries at the same time. Will he have to do this? Also he is afraid of tossing in the alternator right away because its over 2.5x more amps than my old stock alt without having some kind of draw on it (ie amps). It also looks like he is going to have to run the wire outside the car along the frame. This worries me a LOT. A little water gets inside that cord and zap, there goes all the electronics. I was told to get the cheaper knu kable because I didn't need anything more expensive... All I have to say after I talked with a few install guys around my area and it looks like its a good long day project for most of them. For me this means probably a week + if I were to tear out everything. The cheapest and certified people I could find were around 400$ and they said they could get it done in a day if I got it there around 8am and I could pick it up around 9pm. My two friends that were supposed to help me out with this totally ditched on me. So I ask that if anybody's around the Wisconsin area and wouldn't mind helping out a nublet like myself, you should send me a pm. Ill supply all the beer you can drink and pay for gas money and some gratitude for helping me out. The only thing I dont have right now that I need is some way of tieing the battery down, the woofer (on back order) and one more pair of "keys" to take out my cd player.

I have two batterys (a starter and a huge one in the trunk) and a 200amp alt. I dont think I could handle .5 ohms

Check out excessive amperage. They have great alts. I have a 200amper with a SAX-50.4 and a SAZ-3500D and it works pretty well.

lol tkd... old timer fighting when you dont even fight.

What kind of longboard do you have? I have two longboards -- a 60" supercharger and a 40" dropdeck for my sliding. Well I use both for sliding I just prefer the dropdeck because you can turn better and sharper. My hobbies besides skating are: Gaming - mmm WoW andcounterstrike Muay Thai - Blackbelt JuJitsu - Blue bel Firefighting, UFC... Rugby

Well I just got my battery from somebody on here that was selling them and I have to say I am pretty sure its no longer usable. The terminals are pushed in a good two inches and the plastic housing around them is pretty badly cracked. I can see the stuff inside of it as well. Top Picture: Right Terminal: http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/4719/batteryrightterm.jpg Left Terminal: http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/9920/batteryleftterm.jpg

Yup. Ill give him until noon tomorrow to at least email me back. Then im going to all the sites he posted me to to give him bad feedback. I wonder if its possible to get somebody banned from forums because of bad selling...

Well he STILL has not sent me my battery yet. He promised several times so far to get it sent out. He said it would be shipped Saturday and its now Monday. DO NOT buy from this guy. He will pack items poorly and then not bother sending you another one. He seems nice and everything but a very poor seller.

Id go with the SAZ-4500D if youre not on a time crunch. I am putting a single 15" level 5 DC on a 3500D

It took about ten minutes to take it out and five to put it back cause i was doing a few things at once... wasnt too bad. My mom was just shaking her head.

A little late but heres the picture of most of my stuff (no bat or woofer yet)

Is there a way to wake up both amps and have them power on instead of having to wire both with the (don't remember name) "wake up wire" ? I looked on the back of my cd player and it doesn't look like there's a spot to put it. But there is a slot for "sub out:" on it hat looks like its just a rca cable connection....hrmmm

only problem is this box is only 2 inches shorter than the last one. this will barley fit in my trunk with the amps and battery

haha, Yes the remote wire. I have two amps so would I run two different wires from my headunit?