Hell-Razor

Just curious here. Is the knob with the SAX-50.4 a Bass or Gain knob?

Alright. I can step the amp down (to what?). And the battery you recommended is out of stock for all the websites I found. So I may just want to go back to the D3100 battery sense I am going to save money on the amp. Oh an what size fuse should I get with the amp you're recommending? I would like to try and get everything ordered that I need to before you finish the design.

Not saying I want to. Just asking if I should. Or will running wire without fuses to the pos and neg terms be alright for battery to battery?

Alright lets see here. I just measured out the length from the front to the back of my car and its about 15 feet give all the twists and turns and running it under everything. Does this sound right for you guys running a 4 door to the trunk? this would mean I would need roughly 30 feet of 0 gauge wire (expensive!!!!). I figure I would want to fuse both lines (+ and -) but with what fuse? 300a? Also I am looking at getting the 0 gauge amp kit and a SAZ-3500D...should I get a 300a fuse as well with this thing? I think I should but I am to the point where I put in my CC info and it never asked me what fuse I want. And just let me make sure I have it correct. I want to fuse the two wires from the big bat to the main bat, then fuse the wires going to the amps? or seeing as they have built in fuses do I still need to? (should I is what I mean)

nice

Theres a few box designs in the forum

I got a 200 amp alt (from a friend on here) for 300 when it cost 400 originally. I think a good key is ~2$ for every amp the alt is designed to put out.

...what?

I just ordered a 200 amp alt from Excessive Amperage. I know for you you have to tell us more like what kind of engine? Ill post how the alt is holding up whenever I get it installed (sometime next week)

It was a dumb mistake and I like the sound of these speakers. If anything Ill upgrade the front end and throw these in back. My car already has good tweeters so Ill keep the stock ones and toss these in. I have to admit the front end is probably what I know the least about.

five guys burgers own...

What would you recommend then?

Well I have ran into something here and I think I may have gotten lucky on my part.... My friend who is going to help me install my car system here whenever I get everything together. He told me that he has a 5 farad cap and that I could have it from him for a few cases of...beverages. Now I am curious about this seeing as I was told to stay away from caps and just get a battery bank. What questions should I ask him when deciding if I want this or not? He says its pretty new and was only installed into his car system once. Then he took it out due to too many tickets over a week (must have been dumb about it) and never put it back in. Now for the serious question here, should I even bother? or should I just snag the Powermaster D3100 battery like I was going to originally? Now this could help me save about 400$ if I could get away with using this cap and my stock battery with a 200 amp alt. I will be trying to push about 3500 -4k watts total. I could also get a bigger main battery (the biggest that would fit under the hood that is) if you guys think that cap wont handle my system. Also if I get an extra battery for the trunk (saying the cap isn't enough) would I want to put the cap in between the two batteries? after the two? Or just dump it in general and stick with two batteries (one big one stock starting). I have been reading up but haven't been able to find much saying a cap + bat install. All I have found was a list of caps that should be used with XXX wattage system. It says for a 5000+watt system you need a 5 farad cap, I would assume this would be enough for me.

doh. so should I just use them? or return them?

check for my build lost i posted as soon as its approved (it may not have been usually its up by now)

'Alright it has been requested I start a Build Log so that's what I am going to do.... Trunk: 40Wx17.5Hx41D Equipment being used (entire car): Pioneer DEH-P7100BT cdplayer, JL Audio C2-600X speakers (Front two doors), SAX-50.4 (in trunk for front end), 200 amp amp alt by Excessive Amperage, Kolossus Fleks 4 Gauge 4 Channel Amplifier Installation Kit, Kolossus Fleks 0 Gauge Power Kit, Kolossus Fleks 8 Gauge From AMP to SUB, Big 3 with Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Black, Powermaster XS DC3100 Battery chained to my starting battery with 0 gauge wire, Stinger Digital Voltage Gauge [blue] Box Material: Probably some Oak 1 inch thick wood.

So baps = good? hah, alright....

Edit from the post above (I cannot edit it for some reason), I meant to ask if JL sold just their tweeters or will I have to get another brand

[sigh] well I screwed up big time I think. I was pointed to a pair of JL Audio C2 that will fit my car. They sound awesome and everything but I failed to realize these are not with tweeters. Can anybody suggest a pair of tweeters? Or just go look for some. I am good on the high I just need something that will go well with the JL Audio C2-600X. It says on crutchfields website on these speakers that it comes with a tweeter but I didn't get it if there is one...

Alright. I guess I will just wait for our consult in a few days.

Ill have to dial it down then until I hit the comp stage...or just want to show off.

Alright hopefully this will help you guys better narrow down what I want and help me out: I have done tons of research on what sub I should pick and it seems to me that my best bet is the BTL. What I do not know about though is if I will have enough air in the trunk so I do not starve the subs. I originally though about getting the 18" but I need more air than than my trunk has. So after talking which Shizzzon I was talked down to four 10's. But if I want to run competitions (would like to) this would be a disadvantage. So we decided to go with as much cone space as possible and we picked two 12"s. The only problem is is that we did not decide on what speakers to get and this is what I have been trying to figure out sense. One thing I don't understand is he said the last time we talked something along the lines of "you're right but with as much power as you plan on runnin, subs back and port back with the required box volume would be insanely too large for your trunk." Could somebody explain this? Is he trying to say that if I reduce the power I plan on running I will be ok? Or am I not running enough power?... I was told that the more power you put at a sub usually means the smaller box (within the recommendations) you can have. With his statement and what I have read I think this may be false. EDIT: I think I just realized what he meant by sealing off the trunk. Does he mean something like Trevor Komants box where no air can move back into the trunk, but the port is still in the trunk. So you kind of turn the cabin of the car into the "box". Also I mean the one with four subs in it that looks like it was fiberglassed. Not his first angled one. Now for the past systems I have heard, it has been a lot of the mass produced woofers. I have heard a lot of MTX's stuff and they were alright (mainly the thunder line). They seemed to lack the lows a little bit but got nice and loud. I currently have a single MTX Thunder 8500 10" in my old car (Oldsmobeal Alero 2003) and liked it for being how cheap it was. Again, the lows could use some improvement but it did nice for the range. It did sound kind of boomy to me. Like it was just pumping out as much bass as it could and wasn't trying to keep it tight. This could be a car / box / sound deadening problem though. I do not know the exact dimensions but they were the recommended ones. It was also in a ported box. I know I have heard some old school JL woofers (3 10") and those sounded pretty nice. Seemed to be able to keep the bass less boomy but was even louder and hit harder than my single 10". The guy also did not have any sound deadening installed and this was in his Honda. I know it was a sealed box with all three facing towards the trunk. Besides those two examples, I have heard things mainly in audio shops. One of the company's around here were showing me their JL W7's and W0's and I didn't like them. They seemed over hyped, and for the price out of line. They sounded very boomy and off a little bit like they were holding the low notes a little too long, kind of sloppy is another way to explain it. I also heard some of their square kicker subs that they said were "bran new". I am not sure what they were though besides "the new ones". Those sounded better to me than the W0 JL's and sounded much more tight to the song and when the bass line ended, so did the sub. It didn't seem to hold onto a note any longer than need be. The lows matched what they were in the song (we were listening to Ice Cream Paint Job) when it seemed the W0 didnt. It was like I had on a nice pair of Sannheiser headphones. Everything sounded clean with the kicker sub and that's what my main goal is is to have the music sound clean and clear and loud. For my music preferences, I like a little bit of everything. I would prefer my highs to stand out just as well as the mids. I have picked some very nice c2 JL speakers I heard and they seem to be able to get the job done. I was listening to them with a W0 at pretty high volume behind me (inside the shop though, not a car) and they seemed to be able to blend in but not lose anything quite well. I enjoy bands such as Pendulum, Pantera, Pink Floyd, Mudvayne, Disturbed, Dirtyphonics, Dream Theater and the list goes on. I am not a huge fan of rap unless it has a great bass line underneath everything. Something like Dorroughs' "Trunk Bang" has a great beat or "Ice Cream Paint Job". I also enjoy electronic type of music (dubstep, dropstep, drum and bass) where they require the bass to kind of over power everything. I plan to be installing this into the trunk of my 2002 VW Passat and would like to have all this look stock. I will be adding a high output alternator by Excessive Amperage (200 amps vs my 120 amp alt) which should be able to keep up with my system. On top of that I am getting a D3100 battery and am also tossing in the Big 3 with zero gauge wiring and plan on linking the two batteries together with the same zero gauge. I will be putting the big battery into the trunk and then running smaller sections of zero gauge to one of the amps with a 4 gauge going to my smaller amp. Right now my budget is 3500$. I have spent money on my deck, my alt, my smaller wiring kit, my smaller amp and some little things. Right now I have about 2400 left to pick out subs and a amp to power them, a big wiring kit (zero gauge), the battery and wires. Now back to the BTL, two may be overkill for my needs. With no front end in my old car and the 8500, all I could hear was the bass line and I do not want that. But with these new front end speakers and the amplifier I have (SAX 50.4) they should be able to keep up pretty well with minimal gain lowerage on the bass. It may be best for me to only pick a single BTL because if I understand Shizzzons concern correctly, I am putting too much power in the trunk. With picking a single one it may sound less "boomy" and I would still be able to compete in a easier class for competitions. As far as installing this, my friend will be helping me out. He has all the tools need be but I have zero, absolutely zero knowledge on how to wire all of this. I do know people that do so installing it shouldn't be a problem. If anything it will just take a while. My system goals would be for me to be able to hear the layers of music well and to not overpower anything. I also want to be able to go to competitions. I am told that any woofer can be used for this because it has to do with boxes. This just may be bad advice though due to my inexperience. As I said before my installation experience is minimal so I would like to keep modifying (but still making it look stock) at a minimal. Like my friend may not be available forever so ripping all the door panels off and adding sound deadening may be tough. I am a quick learner though and if I have other resources as in picture / video / phone calls I should be able to figure it out. I have a bunch of the foam they use now in sound recording rooms. I don't know how well this will work for a car but at this point, it will be better than nothing.

Not going to quote everything but sweet, thanks cross

expanding foam is expensive...

Well I sat down tonight thinking I have most things ordered, I may want to double check my trunk space. I re measured and I was off a few inches on the height. My trunk space is 40W by 42depth by 18 high. This will give me about 14.07 cubic feet of total area. Now if I were to build a box and have it exactly 6 cubic feet with an external port to save room this would leave me with 8 cubic feet remaining. I have a feeling I may not have enough air flow to keep a 18 BTL in the trunk ($^%@). I do (i think) have enough room to store one but I would be starving it for air. I measured one of the seats and its about 2.5 feet by about 4 feet in height. I could lower the back to allow it more airflow, but I would eventually need the room to help move drunk asses (but not all the time). What would you guys recommend? I am having a hard time figuring out if I turned an 18" sideways (45 degrees) if I would have the room to clear it and have enough room for excursion... I dug up my camera and ofund out its dead (crap). Pictures will be posted tomorrow or late this morning and ill edit them to show depth and length. Also the back five or six inches of the trunk space is flaired a little bit. It goes out about 6 inches more than the rest (on each side) and are about 8 inches long (again, on each side). I could go to a single 15" and I know I would have more than enough room for one of those. I am all for the one woofer style, just to me looks nicer... And plus if I could manage a 18" back there it would look way cooler than a 15".