Lucky 76

Ya lol. Thanks guys.

I understand that the 100.4 is 4 ohm stable when bridging. My question is, say I were to bridge the amplifier at 2 ohm putting out the same power as if it were at 4 ohm. So 320 x 2 at 2 ohm instead of 320 x 2 at 4 ohm. Would this still be unstable? The speakers are rated at 320 watts rms as well. The reason I am asking is I can get the same speaker in a 2 ohm version at half the price of the 4 ohm version. Thanks guys!

I have not put to much though into this but I was just wondering if this would be a great charging system for car audio. The way a hybrid vehicle works is it runs off battery power at low speeds and at idle. The only way gas is used is when the voltage drops past a certain level to charge the batteries. This would be ideal for competition use as the charging system is geared toward the idle to low rpm range. There are multiple batteries in a hybrid setup and I am sure that the charging system would have to be pretty beefed up to charge a hybrid vehicle. A regulator could be used to change the voltage at which the charging system kicks in. If you were to have a high powered setup for competition use, would a hybrid vehicle be a good choice or only to a certain extent?

This is true. I never really factored current draw into the situation. Hopefully Jacob will chime in and give me some good news. I don't want to have to buy 2 100.4s lol.

Simply backing my statement that there are different ways of going about doing things. I also know that SMD is in no comparison to this forum. I posted on there because some people have different ideas and SMD is more SPL based in which I am after.

I don't see why people keep downrating your comments, your just telling the truth. Thanks for the help man. Becuase he is giving horrible recommendations without stating any kinds of facts or info to show how throwing this amount of power at those speakers will work with no problems. Definitely deserved negative marks for those. RE Tech support themselves have told me they have personally done this in an active setup. They also told me that this would void the warranty. I was using this statement to back the fact that 250 watts is achievable through these drivers in an active setup if crossed over correctly and properly eq'd. Is it beneficial? Probably not. This was the easiest way to show how durable these speakers are. I am not here to argue, and I am stating facts. I am getting sick of this fucking forum and the people calling others out over nothing. I have received false information from many people, including a couple of you, and am not calling them out. You make an unpleasant atmosphere for people here that are trying to get information. On SMD I have posted the same topic and received a completely different view and perspective on what to do with my front stage. Just an example. There is more than one point of view on things. Please don't respond back with an argument to this. It's pointless and I will not respond back.

x2 and I was not recommending throwing that much power to them. If you read my previous comment before I went in explaining what happened when I threw 250 watts at them. I would recommend putting the 150 watts to them as specified by RE.

So I was at a car show the other day and heard a setup with 4 sets of components in the doors. I was astonished by the loudness and clarity. I want to do something similar. I am on a budget and am looking to spend around $600 as far as speakers go. So yes (8) total midbasses and (8) total tweeters. I have looked on parts express and it is possible. I just don't know what to get and what would best suit my needs. I am looking for loudness and clarity. Obviously sound quality or staging is not of importance. I am trying to keep up with my 4 18s and this seems to be the best way to do it. I listen to a lot of techno and hip hop. I would like to cross over around 60 hz as far as the midbasses go. I don't have room to go over 6 1/2 " midbasses. I have had the id horns and id 69. I was not impressed as far as loudness was concerned.

...... I have horns.

People have thrown 400 to them in active chief. Just gotta know how to do it.

I am using the 360.2 for my processing. I am running 225 watts to my x69 mids and 25-30 to my cd1e horns and they just can't keep up with the 4 18s. As far as mids go I can't upgrade more than that. The cd1e can be upgraded to the ultras but I am pretty sure the ultras are like 400 for the compression drivers alone ahha.

What I was thinking about doing was actually keeping my horns and upgrading to the ultras. They are much more sensitive and can handle a hell of a lot more power. I would then buy the midbasses to keep up with them. I would need (4) 6 1/2" drivers to keep up with the ultras I think. I cannot fit more than 2 8s in the car or a single 10 or 12 if I am lucky. Do you know how much the ultra compression driver itself costs without the horn body?

I want for of them in each door lol. I have looked and there are definitely some options. I just don't know how to go about matching a tweeter to them.

They were a great set of components. They blew up because my rockford amp at the time went nuts and shot out dc at them. I liked the way they sounded. They can handle a lot more than recommended rms. If you plan on doing this please go active. I used the xover and threw like 250 watts at them and the crossover caught on fire lol.

I liked the way this guys car sounded. He had 4 sets of components mounted in the doors. That is what I am after.

As soon as I figure out what I am doing I will let you know. I actually just got a new set of cd1e's and x69s in.

A huge pile of shit as far as sound quality goes. I am not after that. I want this to just be loud and clear.

There are mounted correctly. The cd1e's I guess are not 107db effieciency. They are 97 I believe. They also only handle 25-35 watts rms.

Forgot to mention that this will be an active setup.

VERY frequency dependent as with all tweeters. Not sure why you were having troubles getting them loud as ear curdling is rather easy with them. Ya I believe the high highs did me in. It seems as if the driver was bottoming out at those frequencies occasionally. I will know better next time. I am also still wondering why they were not getting as loud as I expected. It could be due to the fact that the 18s are just throwing me off but I don't know. Could this also be a problem? They do not seem as if they are playing directly in front of me but a tad bit low. I dont know if this is an installation error or if I just need to rise the stage through eqing.

Apparently the tweeters are recommended for 35-40 watts rms. Found this out way too late. Burnt out the left one at 60 watts rms =(

Can a mod please delete this topic. I just realized how pointless it was ahahaa.

So my fraternity wants me to build a sound system for our basement when we have parties. The basement can easily fit over 300 people. It is 4 appartment's basements that connect into one (I will post pictures when I get back from spring break). What they told me they want is "We want this to be as loud as humanly possible and incredibly bassy." I am not a pro audio kind of guy and do not know much about it. Is there anywhere I can find beginner information on how to have everything set up? This is going to be set up more like a club and I do not know where to find information on that. Anything will be helpful. Thanks, Chris

Apparently these handle 75-100 rms no prob. I will up the power without a doubt lol.

Ya man I am going to give that a try. I am just afraid because I do not want to burn them out.