maddmatt02

ok, I got my box designed and ready to go, just have one more question I dont think Ive ever gotten the answer to before (no matter which way it goes though I will probably just build it as is) is how you measure port length if it ends the same as the port width from the back wall. I dont know if I measure to the end of the port. or exit the port halfway to the box wall, turn and go to the edge of the port wall. included is another fancy paint drawing to show what I mean. if its the way I think it is, its 1.412 @ 35.8 or if not its 1.373@34.87. hope I can get some work in on the box tomorrow but probably not.

ok, going to build a box for my ID8s. going to angle the back to sit flush to my back seat to help save space instead of making a plain square/rectangle shape. problem comes with the port. I attached a real crude drawing I did in paint, the small diagrams are how I think you are supposed to measure port length when the back wall of the box is plumb just like the front of the box. the large one is the way I am guessing you would measure port length when they arent, if its even doable. red is interior port wall blue is point at which I figure Id measure port length. so, whats the verdict?

how do you get it so low? I might be using winisd wrong or something, just stared using winisdpro alpha, might have to go back to regular winisd beta... I input 900 watts under the signal tab, and for 2ft^3 tuned to 35 I need a port of 14"x8" 114" long to keep port velocity down to around 20...

its in a 94 integra, in the hatch area. port/sub both facing rearwards. only thing separating cargo area from cabin is a thin carpeted shelf probably made of some kind of pressboard like the 1/8" stuff lining the bottom of most trunks over the spare. I will play around with lowering the velocity. or I will just say screw the 8s and use my REX12 and build a ported box for that in there. might as well build it a size that will work good for whatever 12 I want to upgrade to as long as its anywhere close to suitable for the RE.

whats an acceptable amount. I can keep it down to about 72 ft/sec or if the port went to the back wall, up to the top, turned again and came back towards the front I can get it down to about 60 ft/sec

4" round will have port velocity closing in on 100 ft/sec and still be 17.5" long, I'm guessing you measure the same way with a pvc elbow in the port construction, you measure the port down the middle and pull from where the lines intersect in the elbow?

oh, also, I have the 8s from the truck I traded in, I have the amp from another build, figured why not use them and keep as much of my hatch free for hauling crap as possible for now. wouldnt buy 8s for the car as a first choice. eventually looking at a single 12 like a lethal injection, GCON, ICON, something along that price range, or a pair of less expensive 12s like RE SCX, IA I12, etc... enclosed/powered accordingly. but Im going to get these 8s in and do a good front stage first this time. best Ive ever had were some audiobahn components off of about 60 watts, made me happy at the time, then always had cheap coaxs, until I just had a bmw with the logic 7 system for a while and man that sounded pretty good, so I would like something like that this time around.

you guys did read the part I wrote about it being a "crude drawing" and the fact that no dimensions were called out. lol. only question was about port measurements, not enclosure size. its going to be 1.3 ft^3 net @ 33hz port is 1x13.5 ~21 long. max velocity 82 ft/sec port resonance 313hz. would like the port to be a little bigger but Ive read up to 110 ft/sec is acceptable and the first port size I chose keeping it down around 60 was 32" long but thanks, Ill make the port square and not follow the rear wall. should I put the port as far back as I can or should I bring it forward a little bit so the airspace behind the port isnt so tight? if I go right to the back wall the cross section of the dead space behind it will be 13.5H x 0"W1 / 5"W2. havent got the exact dimensions yet but the port will go about 17" across the back of a ~26" inside dimension box. if I kill that dead spot all the way across the box it will only lose .5 ft^3. I would have to only bring the box about 2.5" out but that is almost half the depth of the box at the top so its a decent loss considering I only have 8s to save space so that 2.5" does matter somewhat. heres a better likeness of what Im imagining, once I have the port placement figured out I can start accouting for port/sub displacement in my final calculations. thanks

alright, so then what should I run to my subs 8 gauge, Ill be running about 11x the power through it, so seems Id need much more than 10 gauge if I need 12 gauge for the 75 watts to the comps. or is it because of the length of the speaker wire compared to the length of the run from amp to sub box.?

its not so much that money is an issue, I just dont wanna spend it on wiring I dont need when I could buy a video game or a blu ray or something visually enjoyable with the money, the wire will just sit there. like I said though, if I need to I will buy 0 gauge, but with the mix of responses here, Ill just install the 4 gauge and see how it goes. and then also go for a drive and periodically check the voltage with my dmm, and see how low I can get it and maybe decide to find an alt, hopefully not though

box looks like it could be a 23-24" cube to me, so right theres 5.75-6.6 internal volume before the ports and sub, assuming all sides are 3/4". and how deep are those ports? any reason they arent the full height of the box? seems it would be much more work to build like that. and if it was to keep the port length down because of less port area, a narrower full height port could have been used.

I was checking out this amp. I remember hearing nothing but good things about their stuff years ago, nothing recently. but I hadnt heard of SSA, sundown, Fi, or... either seen it usually for 260 and up, ikesound has it for 199. Ive seen ratings listed anywhere from 990-1150 watts RMS into 1 ohm. their website as a link to there amps but is loading a blank page for me right now, so I also cant find out if it has a SSF? they any good? put out true ratings? underrated?

oh, I see that you updated the sig, I know the other day it still said BTL, and I forgot what amp you had listed. thanks

didnt read it and instantly replied talking about subs.....

is that an xterminator to each sub? what were you pushing the BTL with?

how would you compare one of those to the BTL you had? obviously its louder now, are they cleaner than the BTL? those are the HDC3's right?

how much was the 50.4 before it went on sale? how much cheaper is the sae75.4? it will make my decision about wether to buy a cheap 4 channel now and replace it with the sae later, or just get a decent 4 channel elsewhere and stick with that.

so far, aside from one install, Ive always had the amp right on the box, never had a problem, but also never had a box thats gonna wanna bust like this one should. I was planning on making a carpeted peice of mdf to fit the seat back and mount my sub amp there. also, was checking the for sale section and had questions about 2 products. a pair of sundown SA12's I can get for 320 shipped, and a fusion 2000.1 for 210 shipped that ive never heard of before. either one something I should jump on while I can get em for these prices?

ok, I am going to be getting some equipment for christmas, as well as some money I bet to spend on it myself. I figured I should start my research to see what I should ask for. Im looking at getting a sundown sae1200D, audioque AQ1200D or maybe saving some money and getting an autotek or hifonics 15/1600 watt amp. looking at others, but whatever I get, I should at least end up with at least 1200 true watts. my main question is how many subs to look at before I really do my research to pick one. I dont want to spend any more than about 300 bucks on the sub/subs. Im looking at 3 10's or 12's sealed, 2 12's or 15's ported, or one badass 12 or 15 ported. so like 3 - IA 187 10's sealed vs 1 - 12 or 15 flatlyne or death row. 3 AQ SDC2.5 10's sealed (really pushing price) vs 1 HDC315 a single Mach5Audio IXL-15.2.2 ported 2- eD e3.12's ported vs a single 13Av.2 ported (Im sure noone would recommend eD, never had a sub but loved my amps) a single RL-p 12 or 15 ported 2 - 12" DCON's ported vs 1 - icon 15" ported 3 - RE SRX 10's sealed vs 1 - SX/SEX/SXX 12/15 2- IDQ12's vs 1 IDMAX (if I can get one) 1 - Orion HCCA 12 2 - Fi SSD 12's vs a single BL 15 or Q 15. of course, cheaper is better for me and I saw some 15's around 2-225 that would be even better than a 300+ sub, but thats the road ill go down if I decide to go with a single sub. alright, I know some are more for SQ, some for SPL, and not all will give me my optimal 1 ohm load. I just want to know what is the better route to go, more cone area or less cone area with alot more excursion? I will be able to devote probably 4-5 ft^3 of airspace for the box, so after sub and port I might only end up with 3-3.5, maybe not enough to satisfy some of those drivers, but Ill measure and get a more accurate number tomorrow. and I basically ONLY listen to rap/hip hop, sometimes I might drop in some old foghat or zepplin or something, but not very often. my main concern is SPL, not SQ, but I dont want it to sound like crap when loud. but Ive had audiobahn AW1200x's that were in huge high tuned boxes that sounded good enough to me, and the type r's I had once was more SQ than Id ever need to have.

alright, got some wiring and RCA's coming to install my small 2 channel under the passenger seat, Im just watching used 2 channels on ebay because I dont wanna spend a bunch on a new one for the comps. hopefully Ill be buying my sub before I fly home so its here when I get back. Ill at least have the deck, bridged 2 ch., wiring, and sub so when I get back I can install a system into a car thats worth less than the stereo... how serious is the sundowns problems regarding vibration in the v1's? I havent read of failures, but thats one of the claims about the v2.

yeah, the 7105 has a couple better features than the 903 like the fact that it plays MP3's and from what I read 3 sets of preouts, but the 903 has 5V/60ohm preouts vs 2.5V/200ohm preouts but the rear is switchable to sub, 2 sets instead of 3. and the 903 doesnt have the cd text display, but like I said, that 702 or 703, (I know it was 7 something and 3 numbers) was all I think Id want, and the 9 must be at least as good. if I ever get sick of it Ill sell it or move it to another vehicle (have 2 with stock cassette decks)

well, just ordered myself an older panasonic CQ-DF903U. Ive had a older 6000 model I think it was and a 702 or something and really liked em both, can only imagine that the 903 is better than both of those. anyone have any experience with this on? wht did you think of it. monday I leave for new jersey to work for 3 weeks and have a free place to stay, free food, no utilities, so when I get back Ill have all the money left and should be getting my amp and sub then. amps looking like a SA SAE1200D to power a HDC312 or a Fi BL12. man I cant wait to get it all and get it installed. just a stock 93 accord, wonder how it will handle the current draw. Ill do the big 3 for sure, but I wonder if Ill need an alt or not.

what would a BTL do off of 200 watts? I got my cd player coming, and was going to get a cheap 2 channel amp. I would use that to power my fronts for a while, get the sub, and wire the coils in series for 4 ohms, and run it off the amp bridged for only about 200 watts, and then when I get the big amp put the 2 channel back on the fronts. because if I buy the BTL it might delay the amp purchase a little while, and would rather have it pounding a little instead of nothing while waiting for my amp. as for amps, how are the MB quarts discus series? theres a 1500 watt mono amp that I can get for just under 200 bucks. also, is the SAE1200D being completely replaced by the v2 anytime soon? I know the preorder ends in november, but any chance the first series will sell out long before that? Id like to get in on one for 260 right now, but dont have the spare cash yet. Im leaving the state to work for a while, so I wont really have bills to pay because I wont have rent to pay, and will only be paying the utilities back home, so a good chance I can get some of my equipment when I get back in october

nice car, the 300 is on of my favorites. do they sell big brake kits for the 300's? those rims make those rotors look tiny. lol how do you like those AQ's? just loud or do they sound good too?

Ive also found it since for under 200