hdrox88

Oops, I guess that's what I get for trying to research late at night. Just double checked on the measurements. It would take a lot of work, but I actually might be able to squeeze something like that in. Not sure it would be worth it though. I was playing with test tones of a bunch of freqs when I was testing on the mids. I was playing with each tweet by itself too. I was trying to get the flattest response I could from about 80hz on up. That was when I noticed the tweets falling off up high. Maybe I am deaf to those super high freqs? Maybe the tones I was using were junk? Something to note, these tweets are also that same that were hooked to the RF T400-4 that had major crosstalk issues and they are possibly damaged as I had lost one of them within a few hours of playtime before I realized what was happening.

The Seas mids have become a welcome addition to my front stage. The line between mid-bass ans sub-bass is not easily noticeable anymore. The XS28s I have now seem to get fuzzy and kinda lack detail compared to the new mids. Also, they don't reach anything above 10khz-12khz or so, even on axis. I am considering a tweeter change now and from some quick searches and reading, the Seas 27TDFC looks like a good match if I stick with Seas. If I look to different mids in the future, would this be a versatile tweeter to play with different mid choices in a 2-way system?

Nice! It should be fun getting all those amps in place.

Congrats on the new numbers! Interested to see what the next step has in store.

So, I picked up some new, shorter, RCA cables on the cheap. For the price, I feel their short comings are worth it depending on the install. I snagged two of these: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10218&cs_id=1021814&p_id=2864&seq=1&format=2 I received and installed my new rcas today and have a few things to make note of here. Flexibility is definitely not a strength with these things. It took a little coaxing to get my hu back in the dash but I managed. Making the runs in the console look slick will be a challenge. The outer portion of the connector was super tight, so much so that I was afraid I was going to snap the outputs on the hu trying to make the connection. I had to do a little fine adjusting here to make it work. I now have zero alternator whine compared to the RF cables before. The routing is slightly different so that may also make the difference, not sure here. I know I am probably imagining things, but I swear it sounds better, lol. Here is a size comparison of the monoprice cables to a set of Rockford cables. Flexibility comparison. While the RF cable is easily held in this coil, it is taking quite a bit more strength and concentration to keep the monoprice cable from springing out of my hand. Here is a shot of the monoprice cable in a relaxed position.

Received and installed my new rcas today and have a few things to make note of here. Flexibility is definitely not a strength with these things. It took a little coaxing to get my hu back in the dash but I managed. Making the runs in the console look slick will be a challenge. The outer portion of the connector was super tight, so much so that I was afraid I was going to snap the outputs on the hu trying to make the connection. I had to do a little fine adjusting here to make it work. I now have zero alternator whine compared to the RF cables before. The routing is slightly different so that may also make the difference, not sure here. I know I am probably imagining things, but I swear it sounds better, lol.

Look at the bright side, a lower score gives you lots of room for improvement. At least you are making progress. I'm seriously considering preordering a set of ethos 15s myself.

I've never used another zapco so I can't compare. It seems to be of good build quality and it didn't sound any different from any other amp. I have no complaints about it. The only reason I'm not running it anymore is because I am now running more than double the power.

I have one. Was there anything specific you wanted to know?

I blew up an xcon on the amp mentioned before by trusting a DD1. Maybe I didn't know what I was doing, just saying.

It depends the person setting it up and the one in control of the volume knob. You could blow up the Z on that amp if you didn't know what you were doing. If you pay attention to what you are doing you shouldn't have much issue. HelI, I consider myself a novice and I had a 600rms sub wired to 2 ohms on a brz2400.1d and never had any problems.

Sounds like fun...or a nightmare, depending on your organization skills.

I purchased an optical cable for my home audio from monoprice a while back with good results. Hopefully this turns out the same. I almost got their RG6 cables for the double copper shielding, but I was worried about flexibility.

Going to give the monoprice cables a try. Just ordered two of these: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10218&cs_id=1021814&p_id=2864&seq=1&format=2

I wondered who was going to be the wise guy and link to kimber. Lol As I was reading on other sites, kimber always seemed to come up there as well.

If you will be using the saz 2000 mentioned in your other post I would run battery negative to frame, engine ground to frame, and ground the amp to frame if at all possible. As long as frame, engine, and battery negative are all connected together you can connect however you want. If it were me, I wouldn't want 2k watts running through the chassis/body. It would probably work, just might have voltage issues depending on how well grounded it all is.

You seem to be using frame and chassis as two different things.When you say chassis, are you referring to body panels? You always want to use the frame, not body panels for grounding. It's also best to leave any factory grounding in place and just add to it. Don't remove if you can help it, they put things in place for a reason.

I won't be doing it. I don't want to ruin a perfectly good box just to hear the sound difference of something that has a large chance of failure. Thanks for the input swift.

Right now my box is set up with sub and port firing to the rear. I am considering cutting a hole in the top for the sub and plugging the rear hole to see what it does to the sound while keeping same box size and tuning. Due to box dimensions, the only way to do it would put the sub right at the port opening in the box. It's a typical slot port so it won't be blocking the port. I remember reading somewhere that it's not ideal to have the sub close to the port if you can help it. How big of a deal is it and how much would it affect what I am trying to do? Depending on what the sound difference is will be deciding on how I build my next box.

This is a basic sketch of the box from the top view if I were to do what I am trying to accomplish. From what you are saying, it would probably not be in my best interest to change this current box.

Unless Andrew locked the door on him, why does he reach for the lock at the same time as the handle? The two guys outside applauding the failed escape made me laugh as well.

I appreciate the offer, but that wouldn't quite be long enough for my setup.Thanks for all the input everyone, pretty much confirmed what I had already come up with on my own. Time to shop around.

I had thought about monoprice, but since it will be a little tight under my center console I am looking for good flexibility.

Thanks guys. I always slapped things together in the past, so I'm trying to do a halfway decent job this time around. I got a little more done today, both amps are playing beautifully. I think I can now say that my front stage is on the loud side. Wow, these Seas mids bridged on the P900.4 are pretty powerful for the investment into them. First run video at the end of this post. Don't mind the crappy mic induced distortion. I turn the sub off part way into it and the phone mic still can't handle it! Making a flat surface for the P600.2. In the truck now. All wired up. Toolmaker time.

Made some more progress today. Running 1/0 power and ground for the PPI Phantoms. Convenient spot for drilling the firewall. This is where the P600.2 and P900.4 will be going. Fuse/Distro blocks. P900.4 on 1/2" MDF for a mounting surface. Test fit of the front half of the console.