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hdrox88

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Posts posted by hdrox88

  1. Posted

    11 hours ago, jcarter1885 said:

    How are you liking them compared to the Seas so far?

    I am very happy with the swap. They(Evils) don't have as much output from 80hz and down as the Seas, but the xcons play so flat that they blend well enough to hide it. 100hz and up and they start to have noticeably more output, especially above ~500hz. Detail and clarity seems to be on par with the Seas.

    5

  3. Posted

    1 hour ago, Billy Jack said:

    Honestly that amp isn't strong enough to blow those subs at any setting but running it wide open can over heat it and mess it up. Most small amps like that I have ever set up at that input voltage where always set at half or 3/4 the way up on gain. Now some of my higher end stuff where i was running more then the rms of the sub with 2-4volt pre-out I always ended up using 1/4-1/2 of the gain. Obviously this is just a rough estimate but I'm just giving you a idea of where it might end up. But the best way is to pick the loudest hardest hitting song you will ever play on your system, yes we all have that one song and use it to adjust your gain like me and a couple of other guys already said "by ear". You will be perfectly fine doing it that way. 

    Have you ever measured signal voltage coming out of a head unit?

    1

  4. Posted

    8 minutes ago, Florida_Audio said:

    M5 or someone else who knows this very well, i just read this from another place on internet. curious if its true, or at least somewhat true, or whats your opinion on it!

    " Mathmatically speaking even a perfect square wave that no amp can even reproduce is only double power under the curve than a sine wave of the same volume. It's 1.414x the voltage so RMS voltage is double as a sine is .707x it's peak voltage to get an average So 750 watts clipped to the point of impossibility (literal impossiblity since you can't make a real square wave) is only going to give you the heat of about a 1500 watt amplifier."

     

    Basically if thats true.... then my amplifer bridged is rated at 250 RMS. My subwoofer is also rated at 250 RMS. and 500 W MAX.

    so then if clipped then its should produce the heat of the 500 W MAX. so then the only issue would be if its like nearly always clipping to 500 W MAX and not allowing my subwoofer to cool down? so then the subwoofer seems to be safe. but then my question is what about the amplifier? is the amplifier safe?

    Yes, that is a very real possibility. It can kill both amp and sub. It also depends on the music you are listening to. If it is a constant heavy bass line then things will heat up quickly. If it is maybe a song with a kick drum being the only real bass signal then it probably wont cause much harm, thermally that is.

    0

  5. Posted

    22 minutes ago, Florida_Audio said:

    yea thanks. i thought turning the gain all the way up was a bad idea. i think ill lower it to around 80% of max? cause the subwoofer seems okay at max gains. but i would then assume its the amplifer that may give out and be damaged? i do want the subwoofer to be louder, but dont want to damage anything.

    ok so thanks. you guys think turning gains to around 80% would be much safer and a good idea?

    also i have this amp kit KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit

    So, would i just be able to hookup a D mono amplifer just for my subwoofer? and then i should be better off? but i am wondering, i forgot how much power can i use from my amplifiers because ill get electrical issues and need to upgrade the battery? i think i remember hearing around 600 watts RMS until i may risk electrical issues?

    So since my 4 channel amp is 100 RMS per channel. or 100 RMS for 2 front channels, and then bridged at 250 for subwoofer. thats around 350 to 400 RMS. But if i disconnect the subwoofer from it, its only 200 RMS. so i should be safe with around a 400 RMS D block mono amplifer?

     

    Just setting the gain at some arbitrary number is the wrong way to go about doing it if you are trying to reset. The gain is used to match the amp to the signal it is seeing from the source(head unit, processor, phone, tablet, etc.)

    Think of it like a garden hose with on of those adjustable squeeze handle nozzles on the end. The spigot the hose is connected to is the source and the nozzle is the amp. You turn on the spigot and go to squeeze the handle and just get a mist(gain is too low). You then adjust the nozzle until you get that perfect pressure stream you are looking for(correct gain setting). Have you ever opened that nozzle all the way? That perfect jet stream turns in to a splattering mess and then too much water is flowing through(clipping/overdriving). It's a very rough and general analogy, but hopefully it helps.

    1

  6. Posted

    Just turning the gain all the way up is generally not a good idea, unless you have really poor signal voltage to the amp. Use your ears, and sometimes your nose. If you can smell your sub, that's a sign you're getting careless. If you turn the volume up and up then the sound starts to change, that's a sign of distortion(not necessarily clipping). When we are new at this, it is harder to detect distortion.

     

    Best way I can think of to try and hear the difference would be as follows. Listen to a familiar song multiple times at a moderate volume level with everything balanced out(not bass heavy, etc.). Just loud enough so you get the full spectrum of the song. Then, once you feel you can listen to the song and predict the little nuances and details start turning it up slowly. Once you start to hear things change(lose small details, tones change, lose clarity) it's time to back off a tad. If you start getting too crazy you end up hearing screeching, buzzing, rattling, etc. from the speakers themselves when you hit their mechanical limits and break things for sure.

    1

  13. Posted · Edited by hdrox88

    10 hours ago, Florida_Audio said:

    I did not disconnect anything when playing test tones. But i thought a test tone of 1000hz or 2500 hz shoud both only be played out of tweeters? And a test tone of 100hz should only be mid bass and not tweeter? So i assumed they should not interfere. And i dont think i heard the mid bass play the 1000hz tone at all. I may try only the midbass to see how they sound but i think its quite difficult to disconnect the midbass speakers because of where the crossover and connections are for it. 

    I'm not 100% sure about the crossovers in your exact set, but there is a very good chance the mid was playing 1000hz and 2500hz. 1000hz may actually play better out of the mid than the tweeter. It may be difficult to get to, but treat each component set as if it were two separate speakers. Listening to each one individually really does tell you a lot. I didn't understand this until I tried it myself.

    I spent hours researching tweeters one week as I was sure I needed new ones. Come to find out, after listening to each speaker individually, the sound I didn't like was actually a peak in the frequency response on my mids. A little eq and it was gone. We all have to start somewhere, sometimes diving in is the best way to learn. 

    4

  14. Posted

    3 hours ago, Billy Jack said:

    ...you can only give 20 a day... 

    The fact that you know that is pathetic!

     

    Florida_Audio, when you were playing those test tones, were you playing one driver at a time? Just one tweeter by itself, not just left tweet and mid vs right tweet and mid. Can't seem to remember with all the bantering. If you haven't already done that, I'd take that route as having different things playing together can mask what you are tracking down. 

    1

  17. Posted

    17 hours ago, ///M5 said:

    Baffle on my 02 was 1" and fit under it.  Some trimming required though.

    That's about the sweet spot. I went 1.25" and the cone would contact the speaker grill on some of the lower notes.

    0

  18. Posted

    2 hours ago, Randal Johnson said:

    Those MDF rings can't go behind the door panels ?? Or it there metal directly behind the panel ??

    The door panel on these trucks slides into place. You could only use about 1/2" thick baffle and get the panel on with a speaker without any trimming.

    0

  22. Posted

    There was a little hiccup with one of the drivers, sent an email off to see about getting it straightened out.

    Got some side by side with the Seas.

    IMG_20160718_174146231%20377853_zpsn3stt

    IMG_20160718_174131165%20377852_zpsidi0s

    The push terminals fit 12awg wire perfectly.

    IMG_20160718_174300687%20377926_zpso6s0k

    On a side note, the coils of the Seas still look brand new. Running them bridged on the P900.4

    IMG_20160718_174209764%20377927_zpsqgqjl

    2

  24. Posted · Edited by hdrox88

    Ignorance is bliss...

     

    It looks like you are interpreting what everyone is saying into "JL sucks." JL makes decent-really good products, though they are not some holy-grail-brand as you make them out to be. They just have their marketing act together and can sell their stuff for premium prices. I have a couple JL amps myself, unfortunately one of them has turned itself into a really expensive paper weight. I am currently running two of those cheap taiwan PPI thumping hiss machines you talk about. Guess what! No hiss or thump, imagine that!

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