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hdrox88

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Posts posted by hdrox88

  4. Posted

    Well, I attended my first audio competition yesterday, though I did not compete. I was there just to take it all in and watch how things went, visit with fellow enthusiasts, and have fun. It was a small MECA event. There were a few breaking the 50 mark with a VW bug that hit a 53.5 at around 50hz or so(don't remember exact). I had fun and now I am curious to see where it goes from here, lol.

     

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  5. Posted

    If you are saying that you found some fault in the wiring, that may very well be what the problem was. Clipping from the low pass filter is doubtful. Unless you had a severely clipped signal to start with and the lpf was adjusted in such a way that it allowed it to reach the sub. Most music these days has clipping in it, it's when something gets pushed too far somewhere that more clipping will be introduced and cause failure if something isn't done about it. Setting your low pass filter above the subs listed "max frequency" isn't going to kill it. Listed frequency response of a sub is not a very useful number as the enclosure you have the sub in will have the largest impact on the response of you sub.

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  8. Posted

    Funny the last post said piss and moan, but NO one gave an answer, only criticism. You guys are usually passive aggressive pussies, if I was talking to someone who is inexperienced I wouldn't taunt them, I would teach them. Get that wierdo shit out of here.... Oh and to the "dude" who said 5+ ofc, if you weren't such a pucking moron you would be able to act like you know car audio and just answer the pucking question, because you know what the fuck I was talking about. Anyways, If I was mislead why didn't you pucking tell me how I was mislead? Some real alpha male shit going on here. I did say what type of subs and amp they were. My other SUB view the other day while I had a different amp hooked up to it, it didn't blow because of me not knowing how to set it up (when I didn't switch my amp to the new one) it was perfectly fine and I set the gains by myself. I don't need to space my god damn sentences to make it seem like i'm smarter or wittier then someone who was obviously asking questions in his last comment. If anyone wants to help me, "decipher" what I said in the last in the last two comments(sarcasm)....  Thank you to someone who can pay attention, I never pucking acted like I knew everything, but I acted like I know what the fuck I HAVE and HAD IN my car. anyone who wants to answer can, but fuck the rest of the people who came here to bash someone because they knew their pucking gains weren't too high. I know how what the fuck my sub sounds like you dumb ass, I had those subs until the one sub blew because of WINTER! I bought the new Hiphonics amp because I thought it was my amp, but it was because I had the two Pioneers in series.... I have the new NONE shitty subs on their way, I'm getting new pucking 0 gauge wiring to run to the encased battery I got. I have to rewire my Car grounds and power (big 3) and that's about it for now, I will get the h/o alternator when I feel like it. Fuck off chumps I been setting up systems since a kid and nothing ever has happened. I have NEVER smelled a pucking burning sub because I have NEVER fucked up an install, you dickheads. I bought a used amp and was trying to figure out if it was that. I can set my gains by ear because I have unusual hearing, I can hear  clipping even at low levels, if that's hard to "believe" oh well. Amp is just too powerful for the shitty 50 dollar sub at 2 ohms.  Just because I DON'T know how to do some things doesn't mean I can't set a whole pucking system up. How retarded do people with no common sense sound. Answer the question, shit the fuck up. Oh and the sub is a SVC if those who can be respectful care. You don't talk to people like that if you don't want to fight, don't come at me aggressively unless I did first.

    You pretty much just made my point. I don't know if I should try to clarify what I meant, as it may just get crapped on all over again. If you truly want help, you will clean up the mess you just made and compose yourself. The title of your thread does say "help" after all. Telling us what you know, and what we don't know is not going to get you anywhere.

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  9. Posted

    I just read this and am not quite sure what to say without sounding like a dick. Lee put it pretty well in his first post. I am going to go out on a limb and say you had a pair of 12" subs, now only one in working condition. If this is accurate, a single 12 is not going to be heard "a block away" so don't try to push it that far.

    You know what that smell means? Turn it down. Is is not the equipments fault that it failed, majority of car audio failure is user error or inexperience.

    Lots of what you are saying is showing that you have been mislead somewhere along the way. If you are willing to actually learn, and not piss and moan when someone tells you that you are mistaken, this is going to be the best place to find the correct information. You will have to put in a little effort though, as this is not the group to spoon feed you. Most here will try to help, if you let them.

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  10. Posted

    When balance and fade are at zero/center all output is equal to each channel. Let's say you fade to the rear to increase bass response in your setup. It will actually cut the front channels creating a louder perceived bass response.

    But then can I turn the volume up from there?
    As M5 said, you want to have your gains set with balance and fade zeroed out. Say with song X you can turn your volume knob to 23 before audible distortion sets in. Then you fade to rear a little bit to get a heavier low end sound to the song. If you are already at 23 volume and you turn it up louder then your sub stage will more than likely be over driven since it never got cut back like the front did.
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  12. Posted

    Even option B will be risky. I have a battery under the hood, a second battery in the rear by the amp, 130 amp stock alt, big 3, and a Crescendo 3500. I am wired at 2ohm and drop down to 13.4v on heavy bass tracks. With your primary battery in the rear, you might have a chance of being ok if you are a casual listener with the occasional burst here and there. With heavy emphasis on the "might" in that sentence.

     

    The 3500D is 86% efficient at 4ohm. At 2ohm, maybe 75% roughly. At 14.4v and 1750 watts that is about 162 amps. Obviously that isn't all the time as music is dynamic. But hopefully it will help you better grasp the amount of power you are trying to run, if you don't know already.

     

    My .02, if your stock alt really is 180 amps, a second battery is HIGHLY recommended.

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  21. Posted

    So far with the new box it seems to get louder the lower the note, this thing is loving the mid 20s. 25-26hz is pretty wild considering what I have, My SSF is at 23hz. The top end seems to roll off  in the 50s. Adding in the extra filler to drop the net volume down a bit seems to have helped the xcon keep its composure, but it didn't seem to make any difference in freq response.

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