hdrox88
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Posts posted by hdrox88
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He just wants loud and clear(minimal break-up), without a major emphasis on FR.
There will be 12 of these...
...in this!
Power for subs will be ~4k. Front stage is yet to be nailed down.
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For two subs, you would want dual 1 ohm version. Wire the coils of each sub in series, then wire the subs together in parallel. That would get you to a final 1 ohm load. I would encourage some reading to learn some of the basics like this so you have less of a chance of ruining some nice new equipment.
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You don't bridge a mono amp. It would depend on if the subs are dual or single coil.
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Day 1 - ...and so it begins!
Conveniently, the Bose amp and sub are in the center console so removing them made plenty of room to mount my amps in there again.
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Is that 13.1v at the alt or the amp? See what the difference is between those two points and go from there.
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Too late to call by the time I got off work. I managed to find a couple instances where this is actually intentional. The plastic dot as it was called, is there to help with dispersion and FR. I just hope it's some good adhesive as it gets quite hot in vehicles here in the valley of the sun, don't need it coming loose.
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I did the best I could to show what I am talking about. It appears to be stuck to the inside of the grill.
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The tweeters came in yesterday and upon visual inspection I noticed something I've never seen before in a tweeter. There is, what looks like, a clear plastic/film disc slightly smaller in diameter than the aluminum dome that is sandwiched between the grill and the dome. It's centered and it's in both tweeters. I'm not sure if it's supposed to be there or not. I did some searching and can't seem to find anything about it.
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It was late and I was tired, not sure what I was looking at last night. After more research today, it seems there is an overwhelming preference for the Metra/Axxess units.
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I used drywall screws on my zcon when mounted on the top of the box with no problems. Threaded inserts and machine screws would be more secure for your mounting orientation.
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That is what I'm looking at(for the Metra/Axxess parts). I am finding it for slightly more than that, but it's keeping the steering wheel controls working that jacks the price up an extra $50. Unless I missed something?
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This is my first time messing with the GM Data system as my older tahoe didn't have it. I don't care about keeping satellite radio, onstar, or the bose system. I DO want to retain warning chimes, retained accessory power, and steering wheel controls. I'm installing aftermarket head unit, amps, etc.
I am looking at either the PAC RP3-GM11 and PAC SWI-RC(~$120), or Metra BX-GM1 and Metra ASWC-1(~$90). Of course saving money is nice, but I don't want to have any integration issues. Just hoping someone has used one or the other, or both, and knows if there are any known issues.
Edit: I suppose I should mention I am working on a 2005 silverado.
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I would measure voltage drop front to back(on a demanding song, of course). That would be the easiest way to see if it's needed and you would know for sure, instead of just hearsay.
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Will let you guys know when I get it playing. I need to work on treating the doors before I start putting things in place. Hopefully it's not much longer. This factory Blose setup is wearing on me.
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My first point of attack would be a more powerful alternator. Of course, that also depends on how you listen. I'm going to go out on a limb and say you are looking to get the most output out of the sp4 that you can. Hifonics is a good bang for the buck amp, I'd make sure your voltage is rock solid before spending money on a new amp.
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Well, I pulled the trigger on the LPG 26NA.
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So you are using the RCA connections instead of the speaker wires coming out of the unit? First thing I'd check was wiring and make sure the loose speaker wires were protected and not touching eachother or other metal in the dash. Also, I'd check the troubleshooting section of the manual. There's bound to be a description of what the error code could mean.
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For that many to keep popping, I would suspect incorrect wiring or tuning somewhere. Does it happen to both sides, one tweeter at a time? Is it both sides at the same time? Only one side that keeps going out? How exactly are they wired?
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Dang, I really liked the color of that wrap. Pretty amazing what can be done with plasti-dip now. Kinda makes me wonder if the gloss finish will ever get to a mirror finish like a good clear coat paint job.
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Haha, "...I hate tweeters that are designed like shit..." Thanks for the early morning laugh.
Unfortunately I don't have the ID tweeters anymore. I do somewhat remember how it sounded when I was tuning and listening to one driver at a time. Kinda weird to listen like that. The mids of a two way set up definitely hold the most important part. Now I think it's kinda funny when people take a stock stereo and add subs and extra tweeters(crappy ones at that) to it.
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I was going to see about the used market, but I can't seem to find anyone selling used diy tweeters in the US. Buying from someone in another country(overseas) kinda defeats the cost savings aspect. After you mentioned dome material not being as big a deal as I thought, I dug a little deeper on the 26na and am seriously considering it after reading some of the stuff I found. Of course, their ears are not my ears. Man this stuff gets frustrating, lol. I feel like I am going around in circles.
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I think we may be thinking of two different Seas tweeters. The one I mentioned was a large format. Not sure if that makes much difference though. The $200 is more along the lines for something that happens to be the ideal driver(pipe dream, I know). I never even considered used, though that is a cheap way to start.
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So, it just dawned on me that I was mucking up my build log just talking about tweeters and thought I'd make a dedicated thread. I have been doing quite a bit of searching and I'm at the point that everything is just kinda starting to blur together. I tend to over think things and it is getting the best of me right now. I am looking for something to mate with my Seas CA18RNX. I liked the ID xs28s I had, though I don't have a lot to go off of either. I didn't have much to complain about them, but when I switched the ID mids for the Seas mids I was surprised by the improvement. If I can get that kind if improvement in the tweeters as well, I'd be a happy camper. I am fairly certain a metal dome isn't for me as I didn't care for either of the two setups I heard with them. Again, my lack of knowledge or experience could be misleading me here. Off axis performance is important as they will be going in the factory door location in my 05 silverado. I listen to lots of different music genre, with the main emphasis on rock and at elevated output levels as well. Large format is ok and I'd like to keep price under $200 for the set.
I have seen lots of praise for Seas, LPG, Vifa, Morel, and Dayton. Unfortunately I can only seem to find the metal LPG tweet available. My current list of interest is as follows, in no particular order.
Seas 27TDFC
Seas T25CF-001
Vifa XT19
Morel MDT30S
Morel CAT308
Dayton RS28F
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I have been finding some Morel tweeters with excellent off axis response. Never really considered Morel before, any reason not to?
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2005 Silverado crew cab
in Build Logs
Posted
I bought the LPG 26NA.