CrownVic

ok gotcha

Ive never thought about hammering them good idea.

Well Im sorry for the multiple posts but I guess i cant edit my posts after a certain amount of time. Whats happening is now since ive hooked up the antenna the alt noise has quited but is still there getting louder with the volume. Ive heard that i need to redo the H/U ground, but my question is should i ground it somewhere in the dash or run a ground wire somewhere else?

So if the factory ground is shit, where would be a good location to ground the H/U?

Why do people on this board dislike AQ? Im just wondering if theres some big secret about them or something?

I have the same exact problem in my crownvic. Does your noise change pitch when your engine revs up?

Well i would wait for someone else to make sure im right but i think that where your messing up is your not factoring in the length of the port. Heres a Box calc for round port. Speaker Enclosure Volume Calculator

Look at FI's recommended specs

So is the RE calculator not a reliable box calculator?

Yes. I would do the big three first then install a Voltmeter so you can monitor your voltage and that will determine whether or not you need to get a high output alternator.

well now whats happening is on AUX mode the engine noise is present when the ipod is hooked up but not when its unhooked. I really only use the AUX mode so this is annoying as hell. I didn't check the grounds because i thought it was fixed. I cant work on it tonight though after work so it will be tomorrow before i can do anything.

well i thought it was fixed, its not.

I guess i am then because unless your hulk hogan you cant make the wire do that. I got my wire at home depot.

Well i fixed it, I forgot to hookup the antenna and i guess thats what caused the noise but now its fixed.

On another unrelated note, I have done the big 3 and now my voltage is at 14.8 at idle and doesnt dip below 14v with the acc. and lights on with music at full tilt but i still get some very noticable dimming. Is there a way to stop this? Also to increase playing time with the engine off i was thinking about adding a seperate battery in the trunk. I was wondering what all is involved with this would i need a battery isolator or would i just wire it to the battery under the hood? Sorry for the multiple questions but i have no one else that is knowledgable about car audio, and i didn't want to clutter the board with multiple topics.

Well i just got off work. I will check the H/U first. I noticed today that when on AUX mode the whine is signfigantly louder until i hook up my ipod. Also its coming from the alternator because you can hear the pitch change with engine speed. My dad seems to think its not a grounding issue and that i need a RF filter, but hes not a caraudio guy and that option costs money so im gonna try a different ground first for the H/U. And no its not a pioneer. What is a voltage drop test and how do i do it. Also how do i check for minimal resistance. I have a DMM but no O-scope so anything requiring that is out of the question. Thanks for the help.

This is my ground now except there is another wire there also. So start checking grounds at the headunit? Im using the stock ground now if there is a better one someone please share.

My set up is in my sig. I've used both amps for the sub seperately with the same ground without issue.

Well both amps will be an improvement and do rated power. I have used RF amps before and they have worked great. Have never used sundown but hear nothing but good things about there products and customer service.

You could save money and use welding wire, but its not very flexible at all. Also my car has the dimming situation also although ive done the big 3 in 1/0 and my voltage is at 14.8 at idle and never drops below 14 at full tilt so i just leave it alone.

Well I cant help you with a 10" exp. But i do own a 15" 187. I have it in a ported box it sounds great, Im very happy with the output for a $120 sub off of 300 watts. It is also an accurate woofer not very sloppy. And well built ive ran more power to it than rated also it handled it well. I would recommend the ten.

also post the subs for the box.

I might be wrong but to me it sounds like you need a harder hitting midbass driver for the "punch" above the frequency of the sub.

If you just want a design you could PM shizzon. He'll send you the blue prints and measurements for like ten bucks.

x2