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brandonf

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Posts posted by brandonf


  1. Wow... I'm definitely jumping on this one.. 12" xcon d2 order on the way! :)

    I'm having a problem placing my order. I was able to apply the discount code (~$75 off an xcon!), but when I click Submit on the Order Confirmation page, it brings me back to the Step 1: Account Details without creating my account. I selected the paypal option to pay with, if that helps troubleshoot.


  2. Whats your budget on sub, what amp do you have for these? Your not a Q buyer, look at FI BL; those Sundown SA-12's will be a good option but we need more information than what you gave us. Why not go for 1-15" instead of 1-12" subwoofer.

    And BL's are on sale for black friday, free cooling + flatwind option ($60 value) :drink40:


  3. my mind keeps changing ever day while i'm trying to save on what amp to get. i know its going to be a sundown. but which one? i was leaning toward the 4500. but the used 3000's looked nice. now the 3500 seem to be offering a little more. so after looking, the 3500's do not have any fuses. i really dont like fuses because when i did, it kept blowing (it was a low amp like maybe 50 or so for the whole system, 3 1000w amps and a yellow top, after the stock battery). so i upgraded it to a 250amp monster fuse, worked perfect. i have seemed to have lost my fuse so someone said "Get a circuit breaker instead". just wondering whats your ideas on Fuses and on Circuit breakers.

    http://www.bcae1.com/cirbrakr.htm (love this site):

    Circuit Breaker:

    A circuit breaker's function is, like a fuse, to break a circuit path when a predetermined amount of current is passed. In my opinion, circuit breakers should never be used to protect electronic devices such as radios, amplifiers or crossovers. Most common circuit breakers (thermal snap action) take far too long to open the circuit path. This does not mean that they are not useful. When they are properly selected they do a good job of protecting wiring and devices such as electric motors. Some breakers are self resetting. Others require manual resetting. I strongly recommend using a manual reset type. This will allow you to watch for any problems when the circuit path is restored.

    You may also want to check out proper fusing. I'll be running ~1500-2k watts over 1/0 gauge using a 250amp anl fuse.


  4. okay, i swear it ain't my fault, well i don't think it is anyway.

    i was attemting to hand Alex his bottle and bumped the key board or the mouse noy sure, but the dam screen is all super small now.

    not like it is reduced, it still takes up all 22 inches , it is like i zoomed out on mapquest or something, i can't hardly see you guys. lol.

    the tab was highlighted in a green color instead of the normal blue aol tab color.

    i know i hit some stuff, so okay, it is my fault, but i canot undo it... ftl,

    it had some thing to do with the center button on the mouse that is used for scrolling. once i seen it was goofed up i pressed reload but it did not change, just the grren tab went back to blue.

    help me out here fellas, before the wife get's home!

    thanks chop

    Hah, easy fix: Hold control and scroll the middle mouse wheel up/down to zoom in/out

    ^^ Sized so he can see it


  5. Sundown Team,

    I am looking at the forum about this but I can't seem to find any article discussion the difference between the two good sub aside from its RMS.

    Thanks

    Nightshade v.2 = 2000-watt RMS model

    * ETA is mid 2010 (maybe sooner)

    Only thing I could find: very large voice coil with more mass , higher power handling, stiffer suspension than zv2's (built to order, can go with a softer suspension)

    Oops, a bit too late.


  6. No their AQs on a SD 3000D. My question now though was if I had another 12 inch sub to make a total of 3, it'll be a final load of about .67 ohms before rise. So will this damage my amp for daily

    Read the responses, derrick already answered that:

    From derrick: 'Three dual 1ohm subs wired in a series/parallel configuration will result in a 0.67ohm nominal impedance. DCR should be 0.4-0.5ohm. We've had great success running Sundown amps there daily but keep in mind that when wiring below 1ohm current draw goes up. A solid electrical is a must have. If it was me personally I wouldn't hesitate to run any of my Sundown amps @ 0.67 daily.'


  7. In a car, 113 in my 96 volvo 850 glt..

    Fastest (outside a vehicle): 160-180'ish.. skydiving, pretty close to vertical.. what a rush! woot.gif

    A human being's terminal velocity is ~120mph Doh.gif By no means, am I saying it wasn't crazy. It's on my to-do list.

    "The terminal velocity of a falling human being with arms and legs outstretched is about 120 miles per hour (192 km per hour)

    "However, by diving or "standing up"in free fall, any experienced skydiver can learn to reach speeds of over 160-180MPH. Speeds of over 200MPH require significant practice to achieve. The record free fall speed, done without any special equipment, is 321MPH. Obviously, it is desirable to slow back down to 110MPH before parachute opening."

    Quoted from http://hypertextbook.com/facts/JianHuang.shtml ^^


  8. I'm in Virginia Beach, VA.. got a little bit of rain out here..

    Yesterday alone, I saw a restaurant fall into the bay along with a SUV, a boat get chopped in half (at my buddies house), and then a barge get washed up on shore down by my house. A couple more of these storms and I'll have waterfront property! :drink40:


  9. - Computers - programming while at work (perl)

    gaming when at home (borderlands/wow/cstrike)

    Linux > windows.

    - Collecting/building laser pointers (mostly burning lasers.. a few red/green/purple, one blue/infared at the moment)

    - Xbox 360 (mostly halo 3/cod4)

    - Keeping up saltwater fish tank (60 gal reef tank)

    - Drinkin/partying

    - Riding my motorcycle (08 kung fu 250.. yeah.. srsly, first bike)

    - Reading forums (ssa) and idling in the ssa chat room


  10. *Removed quote with link*

    Not spam, but Gumblar exploit. OP, thanks, I needed a good example of this for testing. : )

    Gumblar exploit: Uses a vulnerability in Adobe software products like Acrobat Reader or Flash Player to capture your FTP information and send it out on the internet.


  11. lol no I don't plan on running them at 16-18 volts, and I'm really not sure about being AGM that makes not handle the voltage, as kinetik makes a 16 volt batt that is AGM, as does batcap. but I don't really understand what the difference is between the two batteries. only reason I wanted to charge my batts to 15 volts was because I know some guys in competition that said they did and had greater success holding voltage.

    I've read the same thing several times now, charging them to 15v does hold voltage better..

    Assumption, feel free to correct me:

    If the alternator only charges the batteries when they get low, it should take longer for the battery to drop to the charging point, thus less strain on the alternator. If you have an alternator putting out 16v, it will kill a 12v battery due to the constant overcharging. If you put a 16v battery into a car with a 12v alternator, the alternator will never fully charge the battery.


  12. hope I am allowed to ask this here. he put a 60A fuse coming off the battery terminal, my jbl amp pushing subs has 2X20A fuse and my memphis audio amp has a 40A fuse. I am thinking he should have put 80A fuse coming off the battery and this would explain why my subs are not pushing like they were previously?

    You should always put a fuse before/after any battery, close to the battery, even with the fuses on the amp. And no, that isn't the problem. If the fuse was too small the fuse would blow, and it shouldn't be blown if you hear output from the radio.


  13. does anybody have an kinetik 1800-2400 they want to sell. and has anyone seen an ho 200 amp alternator for a volvo 960??

    i have a volvo 850 glt, and have been looking at these two companies. I've heard wonderful things about iraggi, not much about pb.

    iraggi alt: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/220-AMP-Alternator-1994-Volvo-960-Series-2-9L-94_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3356360eedQQitemZ220489715437QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

    powerbastard: http://powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Fitzall-220


  14. I have read around quite a bit on the forums before posting, checked tons of profiles for current setups, read every thread I could find on the 1500d... but the amount of weird facts about car audio over the past several years has me questioning everything.

    1500d does ~1500w at 1 ohm... icons are rated at 1k rms, I would want an amp that does ~2k rms to fully power those subs, correct?

    In my head, please correct if I'm wrong.. but the sa-12's rated at 600w rms would blare off the 1500d more than the icons would.. meaning louder/lower..

    In terms of power handling, I'm assuming the SA-12's would be a better choice. I personally want the Icons, I just think the SA-12's have the ability to go louder/lower on the saz 1500d. <--- Again, please correct if wrong. :)

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