doug118

I'm buying a pair of FI N3's and can't find any info on them as far as enclosure size or any specs in general. Can't search since it's 4 letter minimum search so any info on them will be greatly appreciated. I'm undecided on wether they will be built into 15's or 18's, depending on how much box volume they require. Thanks guys

If the original recone exists, why go elsewhere ? I would't use a non Fi recone for a Fi sub. You only have to order, no mesurements needed ! They took 3 weeks to build my N2 recone. That is fair. I'm using non FI softparts now and the subs are awesome. I just need to rebuild them into 18's. I've seen them take over 3 months with no response on paid recones Do you know these stories are true? Go with Fi and get it done right the first time. Why don't you contact Fi and see how long it would be? Yes I know these stories are true because a friend of mine is a die hard FI guy and has waited anywhere from 2 weeks to 2 months for a recone

With all the horror stories I've heard about FI turn around times, I'd rather spend a little more money elsewhere

I have more than enough room for 18's. I have them playing in my truck now as 15's in 4 cubes each and hate them. I'm going to build a 6 cube box and see what that gets me. If they still suck, I'll cut them up and turn them into 18's but I can't find anyone to build me recones since I don't have the exact gap measurements

link from Jacob at Sundown

is anyone on here using them? I was looking through their website and found a diagram that shows pretty much exactly what I will be running so I figured I would just copy what they suggest. here's a picture of the diagram can someone fill me in on the pros/cons to running something like that? I know 1 pro would be a much greater tuning capability but not sure on the cons any input/advice is helpful edit: heres a link for the 6xs http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/5251/18487/Car-Audio-Electronic-Crossovers/6XS-6-Channel-Electronic-Crossover.html and the link for the crossover http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/5250/14149/In--Dash-Car-Audio-Processors/Three1-In--Dash-Car-Audio-Equalizer-and-Crossover.html

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-KJi47TPlPGC/p_130AVHP410/Pioneer-AVH-P4100DVD.html obviously doesn't cost $400 through them but I found a few sites that sell it for $400-450

i meant plenty of control for me. I am running a fairly simple setup. tweeters off 1 amp, front mids off a 2nd amp, rear highs off a 3rd amp, and the sub off the 4th

my plan is to have a really nice sounded front stage to keep up with some music in the mid 140s (crosses fingers) and have plenty of control on how everything sounds also, the 6xs can be mounted in the glove box and the three.1 will be mounted in the dash below the headunit

First off I just discovered this site and it's great! I've read through 10 pages in this section alone for some answers and got some good ones but some were unanswered so I'm going to through a bunch of questions out there and hopefully some of you can help me out heres a quick rundown of what my plans are 15" btl sundown saz3000 2x sundown 125.2 big 3 150 or 280 amp alt (will explain) ok so I am unsure on the battery situation. I want to keep my voltage as close to 14v as possible for extended periods of time. I drive around the country so 8-10 hour trips aren't unusual. the largest alt I could find without breaking the bank is 150amps BUT someone told me they had a custom 280amp alt built in his stock casing so I'm waiting to see if he can get the same done for me 1) I plan to upgrade the front battery and am curious as to if something along the lines of a single powermaster d3100 or would running 2 d2400 be necessary? 2) wiring: how many "runs" would be sufficient? and that has confused me.. would you run say all 3 + wires to the + on 1 of the rear batteries and then link that battery to the 3rd with just 1 1/0? are there any pictures or diagrams showing how this is done properly? 3) could I get away with running 1 large fuse for each run close to the front battery and thats it? I plan on running a 200amp relay just from reading things in other posts about them and figured why not? I know I'm forgetting a few question but will just add them as I remember thanks in advance!

ok cool. I'm going to buy like 75ft of 2/0 so running the negatives from front to back wouldnt be a problem. also those fuses look okay to use? and what about the amps question, should I run all 3 off of 1 battery?

no one likes my cool drawing?

all I can do at this point is laugh the black lines are power wire, orange is ground, and the fuses are these http://www.vteworld.com/content/electromech/fuse/html/anl/anb753.php now will that work or did I fudge up on something? also, should I run all 3 amps off of the 2nd battery or run the 2 mid/highs amps off of 1 battery and the 3000 off of another?

will these work? http://www.vteworld.com/content/electromech/fuse/html/anl/anlfuse.php if not, any links would be cool

what kind of fuse holders do you guys use for wire over 1/0?

duran I sent you a message

I plan to run my setup very similar to this one does that short wire to the amp still need to be fused? and my original plan was to do 2 12's but the largest I could make the box is 4.5 cubes and that would be pushing it so I figured 1 15 would be better in the small space since 2 12's would require 3.5-6 cubes. oh and my spare tire well is filled with air ride stuff. I would like to have it like that picture as far as batteries and large amp go, then air tank on the left side of the box and the mid/high amps in back of the box

2 3100's wouldn't be overkill for just 1 3000 watt amp? not to mention thats a ton of weight and money. I forgot to mention this is going into a honda civic so I would like to keep the weight down as much as possible. I would be really happy if I could get away with just 1 3100 the 280 amp alt I mentioned earlier was built for $250 so I'm really hoping to get that. if not I will probably just fork over close to double that for one from DC. on weldingsupply.com they only show the ultraflex available in 2/0 but I'd imagine thats plenty big enough. how does that stuff compare to the knuconceptz Kolossus Fleks? the welding cable 2/0 is only $7 more for a 50ft roll and say for 2 runs, I would run both off the front battery, both get a fuse, and both get a relay. do they both NEED another fuse at the back battery? also should I run the ground from the front to the rear in the same fashion as the positive? again, thanks for the help guys!

any updates on this? I'm in the process of building a 98 civic coupe