pipes

My heart goes out to you and your family. You'll get through this and continue to be thankful that he is in a better place now.

Did you call and ask JBL?

That's the only it can happen since the top plate is still inline with the slugs and bottom plate, that's really hard to do because the motor is held on with epoxy, and there are 6 6-13mm bolts bolting the motor to the basket. It's possible I'm wrong but that's what it looks like. I knew about the epoxy; just assumed that because it had moved the epoxy must have failed. I forgot that there might be bolts that go through the whole assembly. I've never seen a large motor that wasn't bolted, but I'm not positive how SS does theirs. He just told me that when he got the box it was on it's side despite all the arrows pointing upright. I'm not sure what good it will do but I told him to try and file a claim. I shipped it insured obviously, though without obvious signs of damage to the box (which is the only thing my crate seems to have protected) I doubt they'll do anything. I have seen videos / pics online of subs taken apart with bolts through the motor.. I'd hate to think how much sheer force would be needed to snap all the bolts that would be going through there.. I rather believe it's just epoxy and that the epoxy failed. But I'd like to believe santa clause exists, too.

That's the only it can happen since the top plate is still inline with the slugs and bottom plate, that's really hard to do because the motor is held on with epoxy, and there are 6 6-13mm bolts bolting the motor to the basket. It's possible I'm wrong but that's what it looks like. I knew about the epoxy; just assumed that because it had moved the epoxy must have failed. I forgot that there might be bolts that go through the whole assembly.

It didn't cross my mind that there might be snapped bolts in there..

I think you should link to the picture. I'm the guy who sold / shipped the sub. I'm as pissed as werling here that this happened. After seeing the picture of the shifted motor I can only imagine that they shipped it on the truck on it's side despite the numerous markings on the box indicating "this way up". I shipped it cone down, with a sheet of 1/2 inch MDF on top of 2 inches of foam spaces and then 1 inch spacers between the sub and the MDF sheet which the sub was screwed down to using the holes in the frame.. the 1 inch was sufficient to step the surround up and keep the surround / cone from touching the MDF (completely resting on the basket). 2x4s were used in the corners to make sure the make shift crate could not twist and turn in the box. He says the box arrived un damaged so it must not have been a sudden shock, I'm guessing they put it in the truck on the side and the constant pounding of ground shipping shifted the motor (which still shouldn't happen, but it was fully functioning when it left, and he has a video of the cone being locked up) Here's my only idea of how to fix it man. I PMed it to you already but maybe others can chime in and say whether it's worth a try. I was just looking at the picture and I think we can try to push it back. Obviously it's movable as it went that way. The down probably is hoping that it didn't twist the coil or something. I'd do this.. measure the diameter of the motor (the ceramic slugs) Cut part of a circle with that radius out (like 1/3 of a circle or 1/4 of a circle) .. just use the MDF I shipped it with. Stack it up a couple layers high (just cut the circle out and cut that up into 4 or 5 pieces, stack those) Screw these layers together to provide an even pressure surface to the ide of the motor. then, take some time and figure out exactly what axis the motor is shifted on, and give yourself some reference marks on top to line up with a reference mark on our blank MDF cut out. Now, place the MDF cut out against the circumference of the motor , making sure that some of it is on each of the 3 slugs (don't risk pushing 2 slugs and missing the 3rd, make sure the blank is thick enough to touch all 3 slugs) take a hammer and start hitting the MDF blank (gently at first.. don't do it any harder than is needed). It may take several swings to figure out how hard you have to tap it to move it.. then try to move it into place like that. Did this make sense?

Nice install! Nice work on the logo

They're great subs, just pricey. If you get a good deal like that you should jump on it.

Whether they go poof or not is completely up to you and that knob up front methinks

Xcon +1 it's seksah

Where you'd want to put them would depend on where you have your polk speakers and what your level of fabrication is. My first effort would be to put them in the kicks, but if you have the mid and tweeter there then the door.. or vice versa.. more info needed to get you a complete answer

Setting it by ear is what I've always done and I've yet (knock on wood) to blow a speaker. Set your headunit to the maximum volume you plan on turning it to (typically good to stay well below it's max) then slowly turn the gain up until it blends with the rest of your set up or you hear it start to distort.. whichever comes first.

Gut the whole thing and put your own stuff in there.. the gear you've got is way better than what's in there.

You're box shouldn't be vibrating enough to loosen drywall screws in the wood. Reinforce your box and make sure it's properly secured inside the vehicle or the screws loosening may be the least of your worries