Test 1, 2, 3...

the big 3? explain...

But at least the generic response could be that they were supposed to read it.

I like the list, but agree with Jim. Perhaps we can summarize in post 1 and then add a detailed "how to get an even better response" in a second post right underneath it.

doyou ever plan on messanging me back on either email or myspace or ssa?

spam.

Only part of the roof that flexes is the sunroof, thas it

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lol, you don't recommend the 2400s but you tell him to listen to what i say and i say it's fine... He is really gonna be confused now, lol. 2 HC2400s are fine. If you are a Kinetik fan, that model number is what you want, 2 of them. If you are Powermaster fan, go with 2 XS D3100s... The Powermaster's are generally $30 more than the Kinetik's and i am biased to say that's what i'd use simply because their companies support forum is on this site if you have any questions. Haha Gotcha and ok Im just gonna go with the PowerMasters, you use them and you recommend them so there's no reason they should work for me.

ern...........................

The un-named proto has been sold. More items coming soon.

Space is tight , what is minimum about of airspace on btl18"? Plan B wall it.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=26179

then just use the jigsaw, just make sure to take your time and it will turn out quite nice

I have never had any experience with extra batteries or alt's so I can't help there but, I could tell you how to wire it from ur battery under the hood to ur amp: I have a 4 gauge EFX amplifier Wiring Kit which I ran through to the battery under the carpet next to the brake and then screwed it onto the top of the battery and attached the ring to the battery's cell connector...from there it all depends on ur amp and sub(s) for how u coonect the wires in the back...

That's very helpful and educational. You see, the horizontal section of the trunk cage is slightly more than 7.75" above the floor. As I would prefer a downfiring enclosure - mostly due to aesthetics - 3/4" doesn't leave me much room to work with. The drivers are 4.5" deep. As far as audio, I'd much rather go for 3/4" with a double baffle and structural reinforcement, and I will do just that for another project. In this case, the car is the focus; the system is secondary in importance, so I'll most likely opt for 5/8. That'll leave me ~1.5", or just a little more, between the floor and the box. As you mentioned, the ~4lb difference in material isn't enough to lose sleep o…

Kryptonwhite has some more WIN worthy content for you M5.

But then we run into more problems. We just brought on Hybrid, and those new guys that joined certainly are not NooBs.

Exactly. That why if I were to upgrade to 2 of them then I could set it to 2 Ohms.

All of my boxes have rounded edges and I always use screws Just set the bit depth accordingly and have the bit bearing only on sides where you don't have screws. What he said .. Use screws, why waste the time glueing and coming up with ways to not use them just to have the box come apart . I have seen plenty of glued and brad nailed boxes come loose. You should be able to router the edges just fine

spam

That is true. You should ask ***** ***** what he likes better. He used to have the btls and switched over to the mayhems. Join the **** forum and ask there.

I clamped my first 1000 a few weeks ago, I figure I'll put up what I got. Stock Alt Yellow Top Under Hood Kinetik 2400 in rear Resting voltage at 13.6 ....... I had just been doing TL testing and batts were dead With 2 L7 15"s wiring to .5ohm I got, 1080 watts with drop to 12.9 and imp rise to 1.8 ohm. I now have two of these little monsters and will be doing some more testing soon