Test 1, 2, 3...

Double post FTL

True sine wave inverters for that price? He'd need to stay far away from anything with a square wave output. I know true sine wave-capable inverters are out there, heck Radio Shack used to carry them back in the days when they had a catalog, but I don't remember them being very cheap.

rushrun, i tried PM'ing you and it says you cannot accept any new messages.

Do you mean 1.5 ft of port length?

If i have a 1.75 ft cubed box for the sa 12, what would be a good port width,length, and area? Any help would be much appreciated.

pics or you lie!! lol

scratch my question in the other thread.... i just came across this.

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I bought a refurb sundown 1200d v1 and it still hasnt come because they had bad output modules so they need to be ordered and replaced.

Yes i know, the stock sub shows 800 RMS, but with the BP power and flatwind coil upgrade i read it can take a lot more power. So I wanted to know what combo of amp and upgrades would be best.

I clamped my first 1000 a few weeks ago, I figure I'll put up what I got. Stock Alt Yellow Top Under Hood Kinetik 2400 in rear Resting voltage at 13.6 ....... I had just been doing TL testing and batts were dead With 2 L7 15"s wiring to .5ohm I got, 1080 watts with drop to 12.9 and imp rise to 1.8 ohm. I now have two of these little monsters and will be doing some more testing soon

PS: Just clamped the prototype on music at 1 ohm nominal / 2 ohms actual... 800 watts continuous.

check your messages Jacob

n00bz and their failz.

x2. He makes a good point on running a smaller battery bank because it's going to be on a stock alternator. The alt will not be able to charge those kinetiks I'm open to suggestions would 1600's be good or smaller. I'm still learning so use detail.

Get em' while they are on pre-order!

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What is the warranty on refurbished amps?

1) New style heat-sink 2) Updated crossovers - not like these, but still very flexible 3) Upgraded power supply FETs 4) Part number change to SAX-125.2 (it really is ridiculously underrated so we adjusted the part # a bit) The 100.2 that are currently for sale have the new heat-sink design right? I have seen it advertised that they have them in stock w/ new heat-sink or is that a type-o?

you say you are using a stock h/u but are you also using a LOC ?

no jake!!! can i still get one or four at my cost???? please!?!?!?

Brilliant idea! I just hooked up my camcorder with RCA out, and it worked like a charm. I even hooked up the sub box and was able to feel the Sub moving. I was just BARELY moving though, probably because the camcorder wasn't putting out much low end (I guess) So, it doesn't appear to be the AMP as I thought. All signs are now pointing at the Sub-Thump wiring harness. I'll check there now. Thanks for the help. Update: I hooked up some computer speakers to the RCA cables out from the Sub-Thump harness. They worked flawlessly, and they're amplified. So it's doesn't appear to be the sub-thump harness. I took the same RCA cables that were working on the computer speak…

So everyone tellin me if i get the 2500d i will blow the subs wired at one ohm i thought them subs where beast that they where underrated and could Handel atleast 1300 watts what about if i find one of them discontinued 2000d's i dont want them to only get 750 watts and be underpowered so whats a good range to keep them in watt wise