Test 1, 2, 3...

I just got the 100.4 from the UPS man today! Great guy to do business with and the "damage" to make it b-stock is barely noticable and i probably wouldnt have noticed it if Jacob hadnt of sent me pics pointing it out. Someone buy the rest of this stuff!

this mofo better have changed....

working on the bottoms of the doors after cutting out some rust he will indeed wavy hood more rust spots fixed didn't think new oem skins would need so much work to get them straight.. urethane - plastic prep + primer = oops more awesomeness first of five coats of bondo sanded brazed up little pinhiles cause it's easier than chasing them with a mig for hours knocked them down with a grinder valve covers getting chrysler arrival blue and matte clear along with master cylinder, proportioning valve and miscellaneous bolts

I'm game----tell me a time and date----we will meet up @ the crib----and if Jim wants to come he can meet us there too.

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ill try those out thnks

Can someone list the properties of bandpasses, 6th order through 12th order? (ex. 4th order is a sealed rear chamber and a ported front chamber.) Just curious. Thanks, --Chris

Hey guys, I don't really get into car forums much, so I figured i'd post in here and see if you could figure something out or gimme a starting point! I'm having some "road noise" issues if you'd call them that. I'll give you the breakdown: Car: 1995 Honda Accord EX Sedan PROBLEM: Around 2500 RPM's, I can "feel" the engine beneath my seat(the drivers) and its sort of like a buzzing/vibrating noise or feeling. Its like the engine accelerates smooth, but then as as soon as it hits that spot, it feels really rough, then gets back to smooth at like 2800 RPM maybe. Its in accelera…

Naw your thread is worthless but thanks for the bump. I have no thread? O_o

I just really got the doors sealed up and deadened, never tried using baffles truthfully as everything ive ever heard about them was negative and I haven't had an issue with any water in the doors

Which Danville?

The Q's are ridiculous sealed IMO. I liked the sound much better when I had them sealed.

i cant see it being true... I highly doubt it, I'm not even on. All the COOL people are on Team Sundown. Just messing with you. I was wondering about you too lol, are you on?

I wont get them till I wear out the icons, but I've been excited about these for a bit now

Please comply with the rules. Thank you.

Sean, I noticed your comments on the BMW thread. I have the same problem with my vehicle. The rear seats dont fold down nor a ski hole. I was questioning whether or not to cut out the ski hole, still havnt made a decision.

at least play something that really shows off the excursion like a test tone CD around 35hz and below.

BTL is the best at what? If I need a sub to match my 500rms amp in a sealed box, would you suggest I get the BTL, no. So STFU. Each sub has its own duty and application. OP- IB3 is a infinte baffle sub, if you don't know what that means, that isn't for you. Plus Fi discontinued the IB3 and it will be moving to their HT line, BluePrint. Picking subs needs to be based on a few details of the install. Power,enclosure, and what your looking to get out of the setup. Sealed enclosure, X, SSD, and Q are the options. X- <400rms SSD- <1000rms Q- <1200rms. Ported, all will fit. X-<400rms SSD-<1000rms Q-<1200rms BL(3inch)-<1500rms BL(4inch)-<2000rms BTL N2-&l…

Them X's look yummy.

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I know I am in the wrong section I dont know how I did that.