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2,677 topics in this forum
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damnit...i modeled the IB15 in a 16 cu ft. sealed enclosure on BBP6 and it looked really really good...very flat, no peaks or dips and a very mellow roll off with an -3db point right around 20 hz it doesn't model much different from having 160 cu ft of airspace at all...a slightly lower f3 could i just do the IB15 in a big sealed enclosure and still benefit from the advantages of an IB install? but Robert...seriously? sounds like you will have a bangin' sub set up when you are done! i hope to see a build from you in the near future!
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http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=26179
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I realize there is a multitude of amps to choose from but anyone have idea's off the top of their head for great amps for the money to power one of these?
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Just because you bought your driver from Fi doesn't mean it's related to them in any way that your airbag light is going on and off... If you bought a driver from ssa you'd post this in the ssa section... Perhaps a wire is loose and the more you turn it up the the wiring disconnects and connects... I'm not a mechanic, nor do I work for Cadillac either... lol
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How bout you let the ENGINEER's stick to designing subwoofers. And not you. kthnx. nG
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if you have accessories(radio, lights, ect.|) in the vehicle on while just the key is turned to accessory your voltage might drop to 11.5-12 volts. But if nothing in the vehicle is on and you turn the key to the on position your voltage should be close to 12.6 volts. Also try a DMM at the wires going to your stinger volt gauge and see if they are the same it could be a possibiltiy the gauge is off a little.
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http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=26179
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NO spamming!
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I know the amp has not been released yet.. But I have preordered the amp through a rep and is expected to come in the beginning of june. Any recomendations of electrical upgrades on my vehicle. batteries, wires, alternator, etc...I have a 2000 Honda passport lx. I will also be running a sax-100.4 also. I'm trying get everything as good as it could get so I can run the amps efficiently and get its full potential without blowing them.
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what kinda car does he have? i missed that part. but you said that with out knowing right>? be honest!
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Write me! AB smith, Julian 331 trs/FLT 249 1320 truemper st unit 369557 Lackland AFB , Tx 78236 I'll be back april first!
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why did u post that obd?
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Because most car audio setups aren't that intricate or designed for SQ like home audio. If you look around, I think you could find some serious audiophile car setups with L-Pads.
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I've reread this thread...I can't find a damn thing you're helping here. Have you ever changed a cd player in a car? Have you ever replaced the stereo? Have you ever altered the engine or intake/exhaust? Then YOU TOO have broken the rule of "let the engineers stick to designing...". Let the corporation tell me what's best for me? No thanks. dick.
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nah, you only need 1 4 channel for a 2-way or 1 6 channel for a 3-way active front stage
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http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=26179
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My guess is 896
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sealed enclosure guessing? after just looking at a pic of your engine the alternator looks pretty easy to get to. So it should be relatively easy. just these three steps alternator to positive side on battery engine block to neg and neg to chassis
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well to answer your question. first I'm female. So that would rule out his brother. And yes the box he is building right now is only his second complete build, but he re-fubrished his old box he had used for his old sub. He is really good a problem solving and finding budget friendly ways to build without cutting down quality. And i'm not related to him either.
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Yeah I don't think theres a need to post if you're going to give a comment like that. No need to be an essho.
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+1 You are tiring. Have they not banned you yet? All I see you do around here is piss on peoples threads. Who gives a chit that you mod some other site? Not me, you are a worthless annoyance here and I have asked you to stay out of my threads numerous times. Thanks for the bump.
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Motors really dont have a power rating, as it is a function of the soft parts and coils somewhat more than the motor. But they can be made into a 1000W RMS sub without too much issue. SQ, SPL, some sort of mix of things? What coil? Thanks, Scott
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http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=26179
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