Test 1, 2, 3...

Get the CA18RLY then... 2.83"

Thanks guys! forsure would get the 2 1500d's but i was just wondering, sice the sub is dual 1ohm, would i wire each amp to 1ohm, one to each coil, or 2 ohms or what?? never wired 2 amps to one sub.

its this one

Thank you. I've always wondered the same thing. It sure seems like a strange business model if you ask me. Why is the dealer listing such a secret? I bought an Atlas 12 and an Arsenal 12 from Chad during their presales so I'm a longtime AA fan. I also bought a pair of their poly mids. Because then you get people trying to play the price game and call dealers outside of their territory..or outside of their area...which keeps the shops from being able to make their money to swim. The line is there for shops and shops only. If you have a shop within a reasonable driving distance of where you live, then you must purchase through them. There is absolutely no reason to have a…

practice subs

If I trade for an amp I need something that is at least 2500 watts rms. This Audiopipe should be an easy fix, but I just dont have the time or money to do it.

I really need some help to decide what subwoofer amplifier to chose, please check my last post. Yeah, I want your personal opinion, if you were me...

Unless the driver has a Q of around .01 and it is below a few Hz, they can't reproduce a squarewave without ringing and are never really at rest... I guess it is interpretation of what rest is beyond this point... jw 2 + 2, did you actually read the results of clipping test?

I made another topic for all the speaker related questions here http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=24363

wrong topic

It's listed in the description of the BTL on their website also. :fyi: nG

Here's a kind of cool pic of the enclosure, with my 3 OG JL 10W6s in the background..... .

Sorry i must have stated it wrong what i was trying to say is should i run two 1/0 POWER wires or will 1 be sufficient enough.

For implementation I would direct them to a please read before posting rule, don't force them but tell them they have to go there. Put this topic in the Newbie Sign In section and then if they don't follow we can just tell them they agreed to read this before posting and ignored the rule. It will hopefully save a lot of emotions on our part over questions.

How? I don't understand.........

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=26179

sorry posted in wrong forum. will repost in sundown forum.

There are some awesome Eclipse HU's going for cheap, NIB on ebay.

Any plans for a 10 ?

I try the polyfill and see how that sounds. Also how much power can i safely give the sub right now it getting about 870watts? Also dbjunior i see u have a Q ported did u ever have it sealed and if so which did u like better?

didnt we do this topic already.... that amp puts out more then 960 watts... and i know it was another topic... but someone else wanted to run a sub and 2 6x9's on one saz 1500 D

We were given a project in my business management class -- make a business. I decided on doing a car audio shop. I got all the work on the business done early, so I figured I'd go above-and-beyond and build a movable car audio cabinet to show off a bit Here's the build log: I went to Lowes and got two sheets of 3/4" MDF, and had them cut it to spec. (The pictures are quite big if you click 'em... 56K'ers be warned!) The top being screwed on: The screws are in!: Counter-sunk ftw: I'll be filling those screw holes with some sort of putty so I can later paint the whole cabinet. The bottom's on!: The one problem about working with yourself and not having corner clamps…

I can put it in the TOS also. Thoughts?

sealed enclosure guessing? after just looking at a pic of your engine the alternator looks pretty easy to get to. So it should be relatively easy. just these three steps alternator to positive side on battery engine block to neg and neg to chassis