General Audio

So I just filled my box with polyfill and I do all my connections. Then I connect the amp to the box, throw the fuse in, and jump in the car in anticipation of some wonderful sounds. To my disappointment, the music sounds exactly as it did prior to installing the subs. My first guess is that the amp isn't connected properly and is not powering up. Upon inspection the amp is turned on. It's a bit late and I'm too tired to start taking things apart. I'm pretty sure all the wiring is secure. I'm just hoping that the screws I used aren't the problem. I will feel like an idiot they are the problem. Instead of using a those fancy speaker terminals I used some bolts …

I have heard before that port noise can be increased if the port is too close to the sub. Is there any legitimacy to this?

Just stumbled upon a new car audio company. Thought to maybe share this with you guys. http://www.sonicsoundlabs.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=47&Itemid=53

I'm running an eclipse 7100 in an active setup. It annoys the chit out of me that amongst all these expensive hu's every one of them is a compromise. My 7100 is great, but the ipod interface and the track display leave alot to be desired. Before I went active I wandered into a local shop hoping to have a look at the display on a 7200 to determine how big a deal the sun washout is. They didn't have one and when he called his guy on it and asked about it he did a double take and made sure it wasn't a touch screen($$$). This is a niche market and all, but for the $ I'd figure they'd be able to get it right. Without spending F1 money is there any touch screens on the market t…

Thought I'd let you guys know, I am working on a small side project. Only a few days in, but I think it could have some potential when there is a ton of information. It's going to be the best exotic car collection on the web, with everything you want to know about any Lambo, Ferrari, BMW, Aston Martin, etc.. I am posting here so you guys can help critique me. This address below is only a place so you can see it for now, it will be moving to it's own .com later. logos, etc are coming in the future.

Which one should I do.... I have a SAZ3k and power to back it up.... I already have a box built to seven cubes tuned to 33hz that I was using for my BTL but I offed that to get a new sub. Give me some input!!!!!!! A few more things This is going in a 96 jimmy with 3 layers of second skin and for power as of right now we have a 300amp iraggi alt with the process of building a bracket for the 2nd alt I have sitting here. Batts we have a yellow top under hood and a bt120 shuriken in the back. I have 3 runs of 1/0 monster cable 2 from the alt and one connecting batts. I have 6 grounds of 1/0 1 that goes from that batt front to back and other 5 go directly to chasis. A video …

does anyone have experience building this type of box? well for the time being im gonna use one atlas and figured since i've allways wanted to try this box design heres my chance. this is what i have so far. max dimensions 14-h 37-w 20-d so around 4.7cf, ok now i was gonna make chamber A 14x26x20 so 3.2cf and chamber B 14x11x20 so 1.2cf. now using one 4inch port 15 inchs long chamber a would tune to roughly 25hz and chamber b would tune to roughly 43hz. so how would this do? i tried to stick as close as possible to the 1/3 rule. also tuning that low will i lose my upper end response, like in the 60+hz range?

Quick question. I will be running 4 18" BTL's. Upgrade wise, big 3, 300 amp alt, and about 4 kinetik 2400's.....i will be pushing about 12k watts to the subs as it is, roughly 3k each sub, well that is what i plan to push to each at least. I am about 90% positive i will need two alternators, what do you think?

Got stuck with another moonroof when I got my new truck(2001 blazer) wondering if anyone else has had any problems with the roof after having bass for awhile, ie not opening/ closing or no longer making a seal? I had one in my old car and it wasn't the same when I got rid of it as when I got it but figured that's jsut because it was a piece of chit Saturn.

By buddy keeps saying that before aq sold there name the sub was 1100. I never have heard of this. And he swears they was. So if this is true how much would my 18 be then?

By buddy keeps saying that before aq sold there name the sub was 1100. I never have heard of this. And he swears they was. So if this is true how much would my 18 be then?

Im about to order new subs as we speak just waiting on a reply. Should i go with 2 of the ascendant audio havoc 12 inch subs or 2 of the 12 inch fi q series subs fully loaded? I know there both geared towards sq so any answer would be appreciated

Anyone have any eperience with these? I want a cheap DVD player/monitor for my son in my car, but I don't want something that's going to crap out in a few weeks. Sonic has what appears to be a decent one for $150.

Thank you so much bud for your very generous donation! Just to inform everyone, Gfronty sent me a bass knob and cord from New York all the way down to Texas for O, ZIP, NADA, ZERO! I couldn't believe it.....he didn't even let me pay him for the shipping, now thats why Im a proud to be a part of SSA. And to think of how bad the economy is, people still go way out of there way to help out others, so "THANK YOU SO MUCH GFRONTY!"

so i am looking into one of these for my next build. my idea is to have this installed so when i am bumping i can see how much rms is going to my subs. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350286314830&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT i think this would be pretty cool to have as i could monitor how much rms the subs are getting and if the amps start to clip i will see it on the clamp meter. well i think i will see something but i could be wrong. so i would like some input: 1. would this we a useful tool 2. would you use one 3. yes i know this wouldn't tell me rms it would only tell me current but current multiply by the voltage i get wattage! my next buil…

He's such full of it, lol He's preeching to my class about how people these days do things wrong, such as. It is just as efficient to run one battery, and a crap load of alternators would be more sufficient then to have more batterys and 2-3 bigger alts. Probably true, but then he's talking how you can't be supplying your amps with just battery's of the amount of power it's rated to do, saying that they'll die within seconds, we all know it could happen, but cmonnn.

This is the follow up to my last thread that got a bit jumbled and confusing. I decided it was the best plan to go active for my 1991 S10 single cab install as M5 suggested. I went ahead with the purchase of a Memphis X03 crossover, the Mli-65 mids, and the North D25 tweeters. I now have all the parts on hand and from the look and feel of everything I'm VERY happy with the components. The crossover though made in china is good and heavy, the only complaint I have on it is there are only 2 markins on each frequency knobs. The MLi-65 are SUPERBLY built, the grilles are very sturdy, the baskets are cast, the cones are thick pulp, and the surrounds are rubber. I really …

first off heres a diagram (all amps are sundown) team sundown ftmfw i planned on using my rockford symmetry but... anything car audio i consider myself very knowledgeable if im not in a area i will learn but... when it comes to processing i fail miserably i need to have front/back left/right fade capabilities... be able to control all crossover points... be able to control it remotely (thats y i liked the rf 3sixty was the pda)but its not suited for what i need to do. <i quess i could run 2 of them maybe 2 3sixty.1's if someone can make a diagram like mine except with the processing equipment included ill be glad to send 20 or 30 bucks (paypal) your way. all what ar…

http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2006/03/06/212511.html. clicky above

is there much of a difference in the amount of space in the hatch of an rsx compared to an integra

Thinking about purchasing a used 10.4 and I don't really know a whole lot about the company. Rated power is 115 x 4 @ 4 ohms Any info is greatly appreciated.

so i've got a 1993 Saturn SC1 that has a busted lock system for the trunk. The trunk itself can open in the front via a lever. BUT, if I am going to put the system I want in this car, I want to make it so the car has to be in accessory mode before the trunk can open (or key in ignition, what ever will start 12V activity via remote) I was thinking attaching a small 12v pull motor to the line that runs to the front, then just setting it up so it can be toggled while the radio is running... I dont even know if this is possible ;o Basically, I want my stuff to be harder to steal. 'cause the trunk alone has been worked on (by me personally!) so the hatch mechanism are MUCH low…

whats the best way to do this? run an isolator or not? I was told by a stereo repair man its best not to run an isolator, just make a run of pos. and ground it, that way both batteries are constantly charging and avail. for current draw from the amps. I'm not well versed in this area... help.

Hello all, as mentioned in my newbie intro I made my way here on recommendation while searching for a solution to add some bass to my 2010 Camaro. I wanted to post up and see what thoughts/suggestions others may have. Here is my current set up: 2010 Camaro - stock. No upgrages to electrical - stock sound system which is the Boston Accoustics. What I am wanting to do is add bass that is clean and tight. I do not want really to be noticed 20 feet away and I do not want the "excursion effect" where its all warbley and distorted. I typically listen to Rob Zombie, Godsmack, Rhianna, Lady Gaga, ect. No rap. What I am looking at so far: Subthump sealed mid size side drop in…