General Audio

Ok, when I bought my speaker from my friend he gave it to me in this small, crappy made sealed enclosure and i need to take the apeaker out, not necessarily right away, but eventually it needs to come out, but the problem is is that 3 of the 8 screws are stripped, so i need a way to take it out without damaging it, o and the surround is made of metal not rubber. Any ideas?

I know this isnt the off-topic forum but i feel people will see this more here. I have a Fantasy Baseball league going. The draft is tomorrow at 7am Pst, 10am EST. If your interested, go ahead and join up. There are 5 people in the league and there is plently of spots left. Here is the info: League Name: CarAudio.com Password: wang ID Number: 121531 Draft Type: Live Draft Draft Time: Sat Mar 13 7:30am PST Max Teams: 12 Scoring Type: Head-to-Head Come on and join, the people that already have joined are cool people, and i think you will like the league, very competive. Join up guys. If you need some info pm me, or email me at [email protected] Everyone joined up so …

So i got a double din installed on my car and after about a month my system would just randomly turn off(headunit would power off and same with subs and amp) it did it once then would reboot. I took it in they changed the wire harness and the ground. It fixed it for about 2 days i then decided to change my negative battery cable and that fixed it for a few months and then it came back and i noticed that with the head unit turned off that there was a bass note from the subs playing real faint until i turn the bass knob it gets louder. What could be the issue on why my head unit turns off by its self faulty head unit, bad amp need help asap.

Like it says i need some songs that hit around 35 hz. Thats what my box is tuned to and i want it to be loud! I would prefer newer songs but any things works lol Thanks!

Something funny has been going on with my sound system the past two weeks. I've been noticing that the bass from my subs and door speakers sound distorted . This is not all the time though, my system will sometimes sound perfectly clean and then go back to playing with the distorted signal again. My electrical is currently stock with 2 gauge wire, a capacitor and my sub amp is a sundown sa 125.2 which does get very hot. I have previosly blew all the fuses in my amp but they were replaced at a local shop. My voltage is usually bouncing around between 10 and 12 according to the meter on my cap. What do you think my problem is and how can I fix it?

I ask because i dont have heavy basd till volume 20-23/25max Gain is 24v at volume 25 I may try it out because i have s clipping indicator

I waited over the weekend to see if the Icons went on the "Outrageous Deal" but they didn't haha but since they're still at a very good price I am going to buy two of them and wanted to make sure that I will get a 1 ohm load on my amp with 2 subs if I buy two D1 subs. Is this correct?

I kind of asked about this in my thread about my box, but didn't get any replies, so I figured I'd start a new thread. I know that using bus bars works. I'm mainly planning on doing it since I'm running 1/0 and I need something smaller for my amps, and there aren't a ton of distribution blocks that will work for that, and the bars will be cheaper, free really... I've got an old 300 amp panel in my barn that I got off a job a couple years ago. I'm planning to hack out the bus bars from it, run my 1/0 from batteries to it, and tie my amps into it also. I might plasti-dip the positive to prevent arcing. I'm also thinking about mounting them to my box. Opinions or recommenda…

What are the benefits of using a capacitor? Does anyone recommend using a cap in their set up? Why or why not?

I'm thinking about buying an RLP 15" for my home audio needs. I've always wanted to try SS audio and just haven't gotten around to it but what better way then HT! My question is how much power does this thing need to sound good in an HT setup? I read from a different thread that anywhere from 2.0^3's to 4.0^3's tuned from 17hz to 20hz will be best so within that range of box specs, how much power will it need?

Last night when hooking up a friends system, after getting everything hooked up, the subs just didn't hit. The amp light turns on but nothing is happening.. Tried testing a different sub using different speaker wire but still nothing. What could be the problem?

Just like the title says, if you were looking for something what car audio site would you check out for your item used? I hope this is not against the rules Big D (Denim), it's just that the readership here is more quality rather than quantity so sales area is a little lacking. If it is then I'll take my a$$ kickin like a man......

I changed up the design on my towers, so I don't have a place to mount / hide the crossovers. The initial design called for them to be placed inside of the cabinets ... in the upper section with the 5.25's and tweets. However, I scrapped that idea to gain more internal volume and pushed the 'back' all the way back so it's flush with the back of the bottom section (think of one solid back ... mind you, I'm sure you've seen the pictures, so no need for me to explain it). Anyway. I need to mount the crossover components on something. I'm not all for a piece of cardboard duct taped to the top or rear. I was thinking of mounting the completed piece to the top each tower, wh…

I was wondering how much of an audible difference more port area would make. For instance my 12 is in a 2 cu. ft box with 2X13 port area which is 26 sq. inches of port. Would a 3x13 port make it that much louder or is more port area just desirable for chasing tenths on the tl. More port means a bigger box but is it worth it? I know higher tuning will definitely make it louder but i don't compete so i would never tune above 35 hz. Or perhaps i need a bigger sub . I'm more of a basshead than i thought.

Are there any tweeters that have a flush mounting diameter equal to or less than 1.25 inches(31.75 mm) ? The smallest I've found were the JL VR075-CT that were 1.50 inches.

My dad's friend recently asked me to help build him a system after hearing a previous setup I had and decided he wanted something as well. His budget is around $1300-1400 and wants to incorporate an in dash dvd, no need for nav, but with touch screen, BT, and IPOD capabilities. He drives a 2009 Ford Lariat F 150 and would like to keep customization minimal and realiability high. He primarily listens to country, oldies, classic rock, blues, and jazz. He doesn't necessarily require a large amount of bass, I guess just enough to add more depth. So a daily driver car but no means will it be an SQ or SPL car, he does not have much exposure to the field so I won't need to …

quick question are these two run by same owners? just curious because in the sound solution audio store there is second skin audio stuff? but both have same acronym SSA? lol maybe a coincidence or not. but just curious? i was watching this old video and they mentioned second skin audio, which got me thinking?

blast it all. i saw my voltage was at 11.3v with the car off and that wasnt normal. when i went to start the car, it dipped to like 7 and im like whoa crap. for some reason the car started and it was even lower at 10.3 sometimes dipping to 9.8. i was all freaked out and my dad looked it over and come to the conclusion my alt wasnt charging. hmmm maybe this is a sign i should use my 250a i have lyin around in my closet lol

i want to design a box for my 10in ssds. i kinda wanted to go ported so they require at least .9 of airspace after displacments. the space i have to work with is 53in long 15in tall bottom depth around 11in top around 4in. its going in a standard cab s10 so if anyone has better ideas that would be cool i just kinda wanted to go ported this time instead of sealed but if i cant it aint no problem

My friend is deciding on an 18 for his van, and i told him i'd help him out by buying his 15's he has just chillin. They are Fusion Powerplant series, the older green ones, that are 450rms. I looked all over and i just couldnt find anymore info on the old models; does anyone have any experience with these subs? I am looking to make an spl (burp) setup for my moms hatchback. I would either get a AQ2200D or a Sundown 2000D. Bell's ringing, if any info is needed, just let me know.

Where can I find some test tones from 20-30hz. I have the 20 hzand 30hz test tones from ROE, but I want all the inbetween (21, 22, 23, etc...) Can some one help me? This is for my HT sub system. Thanks!!!

hello everyone, my midrange speakers cut out once in awhile and make a snapping sound, i am running the front stage active , the tweeters sound fine. I'm using an alpine alpine cda-117 cd player and pxa-h100. has anyone ever had that problem? could it be the pxa-h100? thanks Brian

Ive been trolling here for awhile getting ideas and researching various things and I finally have a reason to post. Im posting because I need some advice. I had 2 15" alpine type R subs come way for dirt cheap. $150 for both I need help deciding on an enclosure, an amp, and even a head unit. I honestly dont know my 'goals' as its been a very long time since I have had a system. A long time ago when they were new I had 1 MTX 9500 sub that I really enjoyed. I listen to all kinds of music, mainly rap/pop and rock with some heavier stuff (Avenged Sevenfold) This will all be going into a 1998 Eclipse GSX As far as budget, im somewhat flexible, Lets say I'd like to stay und…

well has of right now what i have planned is a yellow top under the hood with 2 kinetik's in the back..i spoke to some people and they said no need for dual alts just add more batteries..1 said i needed to had 7 batteries..so with 7 in the back and up front wont 1 300amp alt have a hard time dealing with 9 batteries? also is 7 of these batteries over kill or is this something that needed? http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=4580 has you can see they are a bit pricy but very strong..i see them on ebay for about $350 each...so what do you guys think..battery/alt wise? by the way this is for around 4000-4500 watts total

I live in baton rouge and wanna get metered. There is a shop in Denham Springs that charges $10 per run to get metered. Does anybody own a term lab or some other spl meter and wanna help me get some input on what my system can do? Thanks guys