General Audio

Alright, so I'm trying to plan out my car system and ive ordered my subs/amps. The subs are 1x 18" FI BTL and 2x 12" FI BTL's. I have a 4 door dodge stratus and I was planning on removing the back seats where I would put the 18" in a 7'-8' cu ported box. The two 12"s would go in the trunk area in a single ported box (can do two seperate boxes if that would be better). The trunk/cab would be connected due to the removal of the back seat. My question is, would this be a very stupid thing to do? Im VERY new at these things and I apologize if it's a rediculous idea. Also, if it isn't a good idea, what would be? And last, what would be good places to have the ports/woof…

The one that would brag about the bass; the one who experts bad-mouthed.

Has anyone used anything other than the popular Second Skin, Raamat, etc....closed and open cell products with great results. I googled this topic and found several companies proving a wide range of products that have similar claims and prices that vary from the prices on popular car audio products both ways. Just curious. I'm thinking I may try something new.

pioneer deh-p400ub hu pioneer ts-c720prs comps 1- ss rl-i8 kicker 700.5 have 2 rolls of raamaat and mdf baffles goin in my 02 xtreme blazer also.

last year i had the hifonics bxi1206 on a ssd 15 in a nissan hardbody truck and it sounded great. im selling the truck tho and getting probably a honda passport so i was thinking about a new setup. i was thinkin a hifonics bxi1606 and a 12 bl. the box would be 3.5@34hz. would the kicker 4 gauge amp kit and the kinetik hc800 be straight?

Alright, I have just ordered a 1500d amp and plan on buying a 18" FI BTL. Now, my question is, if I want to use the single 1500d with the sub and then eventually buy another and stack them both on it, what type of vc setup should i order the sub with? Is there any way to get maximum performance untill and after I get a second 1500d? Also, what type of wattage would I be getting from two 1500d's at the ohmage you suggest. Thanks very much!

I will be doing a blowthrough in my truck, gonna order amps and such on Wednesday. Anyhow, it is going to be 4 12" BLs, but my question is, how do you think I should do my port. I was thinking staggering the 4 subs. The two outside ones low, the two middle higher up allowing the subs to sit closer together, and doing one big square port in the middle of the box. My goal is to be a rid. loud daily pounder with possible compeition...will this work?

I wanna see some videos of this song playing on you guys systems! Million Bucks by Trae

So I've been listening for leaks in my new sealed box and browsing through stuff that I haven't heard in a while. A song that I've heard countless times before, Dread Rock (Paul Oakenfold, Matrix soundtrack) literally made me jump out of my seat when it hit a certain note that I've never heard before. I've had a small sealed enclosure with my single RL-i8, but it never hit sounds like this. I guess it really proves that it's all about the box... although I'm sure adding another RL-i8 (and lowering the impedance to 4ohms in the process) didn't hurt. Obviously, there are SPL setups that make the listener almost lose control of their bodily functions. I'm more interested…

Tinsel leads snapped in half on me today, how would i go about soldering them back together without the solder dripping everywhere?

I just bought the Pioneer DEH-P6000UB and i love it but... wut should the low pass frequency be set up at as well at the hpf? i want a sound system that gets the best outta my mids, highs and bass

Build details Vehicle:1994 gmc extended cab sierra Subs: 2 Sundown Nightshades 18's (dont rape my pm box there is no more for several months) Sub amps: 3000 per sub Amps for active system: 1 100.4 per door Amp for cdt componets (part of alarm): sundown 100.2 electrical: multiple runs 1/0 8 powermaster d3100's and 1 300 amp alt and one 175amp sound deadening 290 sq ft of cascade picture of box amprack and nightshade 18 below I need help selecting drivers and some sort of sound processing. the only drivers ive settled on are the Sundown e8's for upperbass/lower mid-bass frequency's. sound processing i have no idea on. 100.2 will be running a set of 4 inch cdt componets wit…

I was having problems with duel alternators on my 05 hummer basically the computer would shut them off when I would plug in the second alt.Coming to find out I was not alone lots of people have a similar voltage problem.I am wondering how many more people have this problem.GM has a new 80% charging set point 13.8volts is all the computer will allow your system to charge.Anyone else having problems all makes and models info welcome.

lol funny topic but true..heres the deal..latly i been really thinking if i need 4 18's since i will never compete and with all these noise violation laws..i think 2 18's will be enough for me..if they are not then no biggie just order 2 more..but heres the deal..do you guys think its justifiable to spend $1200 on sound deadening on just 2 18's? am i going over board? the plan is to go single layers on doors and double up every where else..which consists of 240 sq ft of damp pro and 160 sq ft of damp regular..so what you guys think? i just dont want to feel like the fools who buy rims that cost 3-5 times more then there car is worth..lol

anyone ever order from this place? http://www.mobilesoundworks.com any bad experiences?

If this were you, what would you do- If you already had all of your sound deadening and HU installed, all u need to do is buy your front stage\midbass amps for all those, then your subs and amps and all wiring and new alternator. If the money you were gonna spend regardless came up to - ~$3,200, if you knew you had the room to double output power from 2,000w to 4,500w, would you spend an extra $1,300? Added weight is approx 500 lbs out of a total of 865 so new coil overs or shocks would also need to be bough as well ~$850 on top of $1,300. Opinions? I'd like to break 150 some point in my life but for a daily driver it's hard. I'm lookin at wanting to buy 4 AA Arsenal 10s …

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3821_-...under+4501.html this amp usually goes for $275-$325 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3777_-...under+5601.html this amp usually goes for $350-$425 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6523_H...+BXi+2006D.html usually goes for $350 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6590_K...r+ZX1000.1.html usually around $350 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_1173_JL+Audio+500-1.html usually around $400 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_1501_Kicker+SX650.1.html usually around $400+

I'm not gonna try and go deep into this as this topic would then get boring. But on a general level- SSD with copper coil and BP vs ICON Both comparing 10s here being delivered 1100w. I like it loud loud but as u can see i am comparing using copper coil so some nice transient response needs to be there as well. I read about the flatwound but do not think i want it. On a general level, is this a win win situation? Both bout the same regardless?

My old Uberwoofer has really seen better days. There is tear in the surround, dents in the cone, oh and it survived a high temp garage fire as well as subsequent water immersion. Last I knew (circa 2005), RE among others were willing to do one off woofer rebuilds... I haven't followed CA very much at all in the last couple of years, but anyone have recommendations on rebuilding this old girl? SQ biased... SPL is for noobs -Nick

I did a box design for you, but cannot PM you. . . . Brian

heres the situation..from my battery under the hood to the back of my truck is about 10 feet..but im giving a extra 3 feet better to have more then less..and im also running 2 batteries under the hood with 2 batteries in the back..now keep in mind i have never installed my own stuff ive always had people i know and trust do it..so im just buying the wires for them..so by my calculations i should need somewhere around 25-30 feet of 0 guage wire to fulfill this project? by the way the 2 batteries in front will be about 4 feet apart from each other..1 on each side and in the back the other 2 batteries will be next to each other.and there will be 2 amps back there has well..c…

I just want to get this straight, the 1/0 run from my amp to battery, i would hook into the 1/0 slot in something like THIS, and then connect that to the actual battery terminal.. right? Also, why does it say its a Pos/Neg battery clamp? (Doesnt it matter which side of the battery you hook it to?) sorry for the pure newbness and Thanks to everyone that replies haha

i did a price match with SonicElectronix they have there kicker pdk1 kits for $120 and i found it on another site for $85 and they price matched it..i just ordered 2 more kits for $170 with the coupon code..im not sure if it still works but i tryed adding a kit to cart and put in the code and the item went down to $85 so give it a try if you need some..heres the code lp17021k

ok so i found these in my garage and i have no idea what the hell they are could someone help me out i think they are like crossovers or something but i have no idea it says infinity reference on it

battery @ rest before install after installing device w/ motor running added positive lead to battery tied down till i get some loom the device, till i permenantly mount it on the wall the collector battery battery @ rest after driving to work and back home