General Audio

Equipment Specs: Woofer: Fi Bl 15 Amp: Hifonics 1500.1d Mono Box: Roughly 3.1 cubic feet tuned to 32 Hz Here is my question, Currently i have my subwoofer firing up and my port facing the rear of my car. If i was to put my box as close to the back seats as possible, would i be able to seal off the subwoofer/box from the rest of my trunk? I have a 2010 malibu if that helps at all. I would be having the port face the front of the car obviously, but i wanted to know if i would be able to do this and notice any difference in SPL? In my trunk, if i pushed the box as close as i can get to the rear seat, i would have probably have a foot and a half to two feet of open space be…

a while ago i was looking at a build log on a bmw and i cant find it it was like 4 tens in the spare tire well, lots of carbon fiber, copper rods as the connectors to the terminals....anybody remember this? and i did search! i even searched my history

alright i posted before and was told to hell with jl......so i did. Im greatly considering orion......now, i want speakers that are going to have great sound quality, but i NEED them to pound...competition is a possibility for the future. I just want a very nice system for starters and not have to do much adding on for the future.... Im talkin like a 3500 - 4g budget... again this is the setup..so far w/out the comps and subs Pioneer AVH-P4000DVD big 3 powermaster alty 400amp yellow top sax100.4 or 100.2 for the comps saz3000d i want something thats going to utilize that power comin from the saz3d

Hi everybody, I need to buy some parts for my next sub box. I need 2 flared ports with elbows, and 1 or 2 pairs of binding posts. I found everything on part-express, but I need another shop because of their sales conditions (they only accept wire transfers, not Paypal from my country! they charge me $25 for the transfer !!!) I will look up on ebay, but I think you can help me here ! thanks for all your informations.

just pondered on the website, they have some pretty sweet deals on batteries and chargers. g31 for $230 g34 $180 ect... not sure how often they have these sales but just incase anyones in the market nows probably a good time cheers!

Hey guys, I wanna take all my seats out when it gets warmer. The only thing I am cautious about is that my front seats have airbags in them... Is it ok to take these seats out? Do I just need to unconnect the wiring and be carefull doing it? Thx Josh~

Any bass-heads in the Seattle, WA area that have Sundown, SSA, or Fi products? I would love to be able to check some of them out before making a purchase. The only thing I have ever seen/heard in person is a 18" BTL (old model) and I would like to get a demo of other products...thx

Alright, my step mom wants a small stereo in her car, but she wants to keep the factory HU. Can all amps be wired to a factory HU or only certian ones? Ive never done a install with a factory hu. Heres what i got so far. My price line is ~500 Hifonics zx8000 5 channel amp 240 Id10 v3 100ish kunkonceptz wire ~45 Im gonna up grade the front speakers but I still need to see whats going to fit before I do. They want drop in replacements no modding of any sort. Also is there a 3 channel amp out there with the 3rd channel being a sub cannel? Its a 2003 Sebring convertable. I have the space under where the top goes to work with. The ID 10 sealed will fit there no problem. I gu…

i know most people run a ground wire from the battery up front and then ground the second battery in the rear. but i dont have the room to run 2 0 guage wires. so my question is can i just make a good ground in the back and b done with it??? because i thought a ground was a ground. thanks for the help

i have a duralast gold 1000ca 850cca 115 reserve its new about 1 1/2 months old. and a 90 amp alt want to get a second bat what should i get. any suggestions would be great!

I only have a 60 amp alt. and i was wonder if it's okay to put a second battery in the back of my car like a kinetik hc 1800, will it be able to charge my stock battery and the second bigger battery in the back? i'm just running 1000w rms. i'm thinking of a second battery because i'm planning to get a new car next year, so a second battery will be easier to transfer to the new car, then a bigger alt.

im adding a second yellow top under the hood. since i have the yellow tops with the side terminals as well as the top i would be able to utilize those as well. so i planned on going from battery to battery using 0ga using the side terminals. then i was going to use the top of the one batt to go 0ga to the alt and 0ga to the body. this was one going to be charged while the other is discharged. the second batt is going to have 0 and 4ga running to the amps, and 0ga to the ground. does this diagram look correct? as in are all of the wires going to the right places? btw, im doing the big 3, thats why the engine is on there.

I just got done installing my second skin door pack that I won through the second skin promotion. When opening the box I saw some goodies also, Ant was nice enough to give all the winners a Fury knife and the hard wood roller. I decided that I would install my 5.25 pioneer premier components up in the front doors using the second skin. I first started by cleaning off dirt and dust off of the door for the best contact. I cut out small pieces of deadener with the included fury knife. The fury knife cuts through the second skin with ease and works great. Then I started to apply the small pieces of deadener around the speaker cut out. Then I cut some larger pieces of s…

quick question are these two run by same owners? just curious because in the sound solution audio store there is second skin audio stuff? but both have same acronym SSA? lol maybe a coincidence or not. but just curious? i was watching this old video and they mentioned second skin audio, which got me thinking?

I was adding some Second Skin Audio Damplifier I bought to the rear wall of my cab and was wondering if I should/can put some Damplifier over the vents?, There is a bunch of road noise coming from those vents (1 Behing Passener & 1 Behind Driver Seat).

well, today i just bought 2 15" PBX's. i have to say, very nice subs. with only about an hour or 2 of play time on them, the SPL is incredible and the sound is very tight. unfortunately, i have to have these beasts in a sealed box, since i can't fit ported unless i sacrifice ALL trunk room. each one is running off its own Infinity REF1210A (1300 watts @ 2 ohms). i just can't wait til these beasts are finally broken in, and i can turn the gain up a little more, then i'll be pounding. but, so far i'm VERY happy! for pics and such... My PBX install

Got some of these in.. and I was pretty impressed. I was so impressed I put it up to the ultimate sound deadner stress test.... a proper pint. The foil is crazy stiff. They come in 6" x 10" pieces.

I have a trailblazer and I'm trying to come up with a way to secure my box for anti-theft purposes. I'm looking for some ideas on what I should do. Right now I'm thinking of laying some 1/2" particle board that I somehow secure and then put some metal slats of some type on the bottom of the box that secure to the particle board. I'm looking for an easier way to be able to remove it and replace it if I need to haul something. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

I've searched, and all the topics i've found are for trunks, which you can bolt, or use velcro. My box will be taking up 2 of the 3 rear seats, and i can't bolt it, and i also don't think i can velcro without ruining the seats. I was thinking L brackets, but i need something more flexible than that to make it to the rear panel of the truck cab. Suggestions?

So I was wondering what is the best way to secure an enclosure in a car ? Preferably not permanent, but so it can't be stolen or so it won't slide around. It's a 9cuft box, and its going in the back of my Jeep Cherokee.

Have a pretty old Car audio background however have been out of it for while. I have been using my legacy equipment for years and has served me very well however its time for something new and very interested in Sundown. I already purchased the Subs a pair of RE MX12's that I want to run ( got a really good deal from a friend who was parting out) and need an amp to power them. They are Dual 2 ohm Subs so trying to decide if I should go with 2 1500's or If I can get away with either a single 2500d or 3500d I would really like to use a single sub amp for both space and system Simplification reasons. I know running Either amp will be at @.50 which is under its rated capabi…

I bought a few of these for a single cab truck build from Digital Photo Club. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with this company.... madisound has already shipped my horns out, and yet after 2 days I haven't even received an order confirmation from "digital photo club". If anyone has any input I'd appreciate it. Also, if this doesn't work out.... what would be a good company to order selenium loudspeakers from? Thanks!

i got a hdc4 18. basically brand new. i traded my box my buddy built for me. dude said it had a blown coil on it. and when we tested it out was perfectly fine. so i got a steal. i drive a Ford Taurus and the trunk space for a 18 would be my the whole trunk. i just want some opinions on if you guys would sell it. trade it or recone it to a 15.

Hey guys it's been a while since I've last been on here, but since then I've decided to see if I could could sell my system. I have a friend interested and he wants to know a price. I told him I would think about it and get back with him. Now my question for you guys is what would you consider a reasonable selling price for my system. I only ask because, when it comes to selling I always tend to throw out number far too high so I figured you guys would be my second opinion. If you don't know what I have it's a 15" Fi BTL UFO slug D1, along with a Crescendo 3KWP, and my KNU Konceptz Kollosus 1/0 20'. Since I didn't have the electrical to run it to .5 It's only seen 2 ohms.…

The title says it all. I live here in Vegas but had to work/didn't realize the show was going on until it was over.