General Audio

I don't know how many of you know much about Thilo Stampler, TC Sounds, and Audiopulse. I recently visited thier forum(which I do on occasion) and was amazed by what a sad collection of wannabe-ghetto trash that has infested the site. You have people posting other people criminal records, "authorized dealers" spouting profanity, and the same 3-5 people posting anything anywhere they can generally bad-mouthing anyone with anything decent or intelligent to say. I feel bad for Thilo because unfortunately THIS is his public face. http://www.audiopulse.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=102

it's old but will it do the job? considering that it's free? click here

Would this be the proper way to hook up an extra battery? And will the power still be sufficient with the distroblock option 1 option 2

ok here you go I have two 12" Power Acoustik Mofo on a Ma Audio HK2000d the box is h 17" w 40" d 20.5. Now this is the space I have to work with h 21" w 46.5 d 22-28". Pease help with a box dimension for 18". I am looking at the Lms, fi and re subs. I would to set up spl with good clean sound. I have pictures will post later of the back of the truck. I need some advice on what subs to get and box dimension. Well I'm looking for spl really and no I don't have a buget as of yet what do you suggest. I was looking at the fi 18" re xxx18" and the LMS ULTRA 18". I am upgrading to two alternators and about 4 HC2400 and two yellow top under the hood, 2 SAZ_3000d to put on what e…

when designing a setup, when is it required to have more than 1 battery in the vehicle? If you have an alt capable of supplying the entire demand of current, let's say for a sundown 3000d, would you not need any extra batteries? Extra batteries are more like a voltage stabilizer while the vehicle is running, correct?

does anyone have experience building this type of box? well for the time being im gonna use one atlas and figured since i've allways wanted to try this box design heres my chance. this is what i have so far. max dimensions 14-h 37-w 20-d so around 4.7cf, ok now i was gonna make chamber A 14x26x20 so 3.2cf and chamber B 14x11x20 so 1.2cf. now using one 4inch port 15 inchs long chamber a would tune to roughly 25hz and chamber b would tune to roughly 43hz. so how would this do? i tried to stick as close as possible to the 1/3 rule. also tuning that low will i lose my upper end response, like in the 60+hz range?

Alright considering pickin up another sundown 3000, and it got me thinking of bigger subs. Anyways, how does subs up port back work in a trunk car? I have 2 15s now, and considering 2 18s, but the subs would have to be facing up for this to work.

i am thinking about getting speaker replacements for my oem door speakers. i got a 96 honda accord coupe. these are the two i am looking at right now: ALPINE SPS-600 6-1/2" 2-WAY 240W and KICKER KS60 6 1/2" 2-WAY 195W. which one is better and maybe if someone else has a better set tell me. these two are only 10 dollars apart on ebay. they sell for around 50 shipped.

Hi guys, I'm new at this. Not really sure how to post. But here goes. I am planning to to connect up 2 amps. A 300w mono amp to 10inch Sub & a 4ch 640w(max out put) to 2 front splits and 2 rear speakers. I am gonna run a 4 gauge from battery to a distribution block and then run 2x 8 guage to the amps. am i using the right gauges? i was also thinking of running a 1 farad cap from the distribution block aswell. My plan is 3x 8guage from distribution block. 2 to the amps and 1 to the cap, is this the right way to wire it up?Also my friend told me that it is not necessary to pre charge the cap. Is this true? Coz i have read some forums and they say to charge it prior to …

Hey guys, I'm really new to car stereo and need some help. I need all the wire, fuses and distro's for my install. I have a couple sundown amps, the 100.4 and the 1000d. For speakers I have a set of components and an Fi Q sub. I'm also looking to upgrade the big three and add a 2nd battery. What do I need to complete the install? I'm looking to purchase this stuff from knukoncepts. Thanks in advance for the help guys. p.s. The install is in a bmw so the stock batt is already in the trunk.

Hey so im about to start my latest project now that i have the money to play with, i just wont be eating until my system is in which is ok, but i am lookin at 2 Btl 12s bout 1500w a peice, so im going to need an alt. right? problem is im having a hard time finding one to fit my car...if anyone can help...and i already have a yellowtop bat. should i get another?

OK, i've been doin research on this and i can't get a hold of excessive amperage or Iraggi so maybe someone on here may know. I had planned on running a Lanzar 6000D with an Alpine PDX 4.150 300A iraggi alt with HC1800 and HC2400. Well, i've been doin some research on alts and it said once you reach 300A alt case size, it is extremely large. In order to have adequate cooling, they are normalls about 12" wide by 18" long! There is no way that could fit in there without doin some extensive re-running of the AC lines, but Iraggi makes alts this high which is odd. I drive a 2007 Scion tC by the way, 141hp dyno-ed stock auto, 161hp at the crank. Ok, it is also true that for …

I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla Type S and I was wondering if any of you have the same car and have a system in it or have seen a system in a Corolla Type S? I need some ideas on setups. Right now I have a Batcap 800 in the trunk along with Dynamat in the trunk and under and on top of the rear deck, a JBL GTO 1200.1 II amp powering 2 Orion HP 12s sealed in 1.2 cubes each. So far I'm upgrading my amp to a Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D and upgrade my Batcap to a solenoid and a Stinger SP1000 battery. I already have a 70 amp alternator so I don't feel the need to upgrade my electrical system. As for subs I don't know yet. So far I may want a pair of SS RL-p 12s sealed in 1.35 c…

I want to test the cranking amps of my batteries... Does anyone know what equipment i can buy to do that?

Ive heard the exacts but never the SPL components. They are older 2 ohm components. Anyone here ever hear a set? I'm thinking of picking some up.

so I bid on a "Lot of car amplifiers" on ebay the other day.. pics were small and hard to see but I took my chances because I knew what he had was worth something. Today I opened up the box and found a almost brand new MINT Soundstream reference 300, Alpine MRV F300 in the same condition with all manuals etc, an audio control 2XS Series II crossover in the same condition and 4 sets of monster cable RCAs. I was going to buy to re-sell and keep the cables but these amps are too damn pretty. Heres the best part.. it only cost me $76 bucks

Heres a design I did... Took about an hour to finish and draw up. Its a little off from what It wanted to be, and Sketchup was giving me some problems, but it was just for fun. So check it out. Its pretty damn big, at almot 54 cubes external. Never really designed a bandpass before, but got a formula from a friend last night and it sounded great so I went from 2 12s to 16 12s. The credit for the formula goes to Jethro Eason. He said that it should work well for just about any 12" sub you can find. Anyways, heres the pics.

If I were to use the Flanged ports that PartsExpress sells, since i have never used these type of ports before, is it necessary to brace the port inside the box to prevent vibration of the port? IF it is required(4KW+) what you guys recommend me do using 4" aero ports(ports be 4" from the floor). Subwoofer mounting - What do you think is the most secure method of holding down subs. I was thinking about purchasing this foam tape that partsexpress has to prevent air leakage around subs but wanted to do something different rather than just use drywall screws for a high wattage install. I have been looking into t-nuts and hurricane nuts and from reviews i've been reading, …

Well I got a design for the box I want and I am having a shop build it today. This is it. 17"H x 42"W x 24"D, 8.174^3ft gross vol. Slot port, 15.5" x 5" x 15.92"Long@37Hz. After all displacement, 7.048^3ft net What do I need to change the port to too get a tuning of 35hz?

Where can i buy some Knuconcept wiring at? I have googled it and cant find it.

has anyone owned one of there alts and what do you thing if you have???

Hello I am again the forum and would like to know voltage Work sundown or evidence they have done with them As to who I worked with a call suono and is very similar but I want your opinions thanks

i got the fosgate 1500x1 mini and the amp has 4 gauge inputs. on the fosgate site it sys i will lose alot of power if i go the 4 gauge way. so should i just use 1/0 up until like a foot away from the battery and then run 4 gauge? or will just 4 gauge be aright??

Ok i will start off with the car they are going into.I have a 1978 chevy caprice pristine condition low miles everything is stock. GOALS: Set up a decent mid grade system , i forgot the term .I think interior speakers are just as important as the subs in the trunk tho. SubWoofer:After a few days of research i came to the conclusion that a 12 inch alpine type R would be a good choice.I found an older model one in a box with all the wires that were in the car for 50 bucks seemed like a good deal so i bought it.It is in a small seald box that i think i may replace. AMP:I was looking at hifonics amps on ebay and i found one with 650 watts @ 4 ohms ( just learned i …

hi guys this is my first post in a very long time... as if that matters but i do have one question to ask.... which is better cd or ipod? i have found that cd is a lot louder in treble while my ipod blasts the bass... my ipod is connected through a Alpine headunit with ipod cord and all... i was just wondering what people prefer more cd or ipods?