General Audio

Heres a design I did... Took about an hour to finish and draw up. Its a little off from what It wanted to be, and Sketchup was giving me some problems, but it was just for fun. So check it out. Its pretty damn big, at almot 54 cubes external. Never really designed a bandpass before, but got a formula from a friend last night and it sounded great so I went from 2 12s to 16 12s. The credit for the formula goes to Jethro Eason. He said that it should work well for just about any 12" sub you can find. Anyways, heres the pics.

so I bid on a "Lot of car amplifiers" on ebay the other day.. pics were small and hard to see but I took my chances because I knew what he had was worth something. Today I opened up the box and found a almost brand new MINT Soundstream reference 300, Alpine MRV F300 in the same condition with all manuals etc, an audio control 2XS Series II crossover in the same condition and 4 sets of monster cable RCAs. I was going to buy to re-sell and keep the cables but these amps are too damn pretty. Heres the best part.. it only cost me $76 bucks

If I were to use the Flanged ports that PartsExpress sells, since i have never used these type of ports before, is it necessary to brace the port inside the box to prevent vibration of the port? IF it is required(4KW+) what you guys recommend me do using 4" aero ports(ports be 4" from the floor). Subwoofer mounting - What do you think is the most secure method of holding down subs. I was thinking about purchasing this foam tape that partsexpress has to prevent air leakage around subs but wanted to do something different rather than just use drywall screws for a high wattage install. I have been looking into t-nuts and hurricane nuts and from reviews i've been reading, …

Well I got a design for the box I want and I am having a shop build it today. This is it. 17"H x 42"W x 24"D, 8.174^3ft gross vol. Slot port, 15.5" x 5" x 15.92"Long@37Hz. After all displacement, 7.048^3ft net What do I need to change the port to too get a tuning of 35hz?

ok i wanna get my crap togather im think im gonnna make a few more runs of 0 gauge i currenty have a cigg lighter plug in volt display, but its very off! to say the least. i was looking at a few displays and wondering what yall use, i was looking at this model http://cgi.ebay.com/Stinger-Digital-Blue-V...1QQcmdZViewItem anyone know where i can pick one up either cheaper. or the same price just better? also.. should i run one to the rear cells, to watch there and then another for my starting cell? just to keep a eye on my system?

well to start off, i have two 12's bumpin off a 2 chan. 350w visonik amp @ 4ohms i know it isnt much, but in order to get the 800w mtx i am lookin at i need something that wont clip out at medium power... please help me out here i need something to bump with til i can get a car (only 2 years!!)

has anyone owned one of there alts and what do you thing if you have???

i got the fosgate 1500x1 mini and the amp has 4 gauge inputs. on the fosgate site it sys i will lose alot of power if i go the 4 gauge way. so should i just use 1/0 up until like a foot away from the battery and then run 4 gauge? or will just 4 gauge be aright??

Hello I am again the forum and would like to know voltage Work sundown or evidence they have done with them As to who I worked with a call suono and is very similar but I want your opinions thanks

Ok i will start off with the car they are going into.I have a 1978 chevy caprice pristine condition low miles everything is stock. GOALS: Set up a decent mid grade system , i forgot the term .I think interior speakers are just as important as the subs in the trunk tho. SubWoofer:After a few days of research i came to the conclusion that a 12 inch alpine type R would be a good choice.I found an older model one in a box with all the wires that were in the car for 50 bucks seemed like a good deal so i bought it.It is in a small seald box that i think i may replace. AMP:I was looking at hifonics amps on ebay and i found one with 650 watts @ 4 ohms ( just learned i …

I have an opportunity to buy either. full bodies or mini. I am planning to go full. but my question is: 1. Is it worth the extra money to get the pro instead of the cd1e? 2. Will i notice a significant difference? I plan to use a passive crossover that i will make (from schematics the ID tech gave) but will be EQing using my eclipse cd7000(7band peq). iirc i can only use passive on the cd1e and not the pro. correct? I dont think my deck has a fancy enough dsp to handle the pro?...or am i wrong? thanks. oh btw id like for them to play down to 1kish. my mids are hertz hsk 165s if it matters.

Would this be the proper way to hook up an extra battery? And will the power still be sufficient with the distroblock option 1 option 2

Where can i buy some Knuconcept wiring at? I have googled it and cant find it.

Alright i got 2 dvc 2 ohm subs i wired them just like option 2 on this graph so i can get a 2ohm load http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woof...mp;woofer_imp=3 and my DMM is reading 1ohm did i do something wrong? NEW PICS! for everyone to double check! the ohm reading changes from 1.7 - 2.0 though just keeps changing

This is my first post really, just lookin around for an upfiring, ported design for two 12" woofers, preferably tuned to 32Hz....please and thank you for any feedback on this.

Can a line out converter cause distortion in the system? The reason I ask is because I have some of the ED EHQS 12's and I hooked a 12 up to my brothers system in a 2 cube sealed box on a RF P3001, on 400 watts, and it sounded clean and got pretty loud. But just now I hooked the same sub up to my girlfriend's system also a 2 cube sealed box on Diamond 400.1, @ 2 ohm only 200 watts, and the sub is bottoming out in her setup. My brother has an aftermarket pioneer HU and my girlfriend is running off of a converter and her stock Pioneer HU, she has a Scion TC. Could the sub be bottoming out now because it is off of a stock HU and converter, does that cause a dirty signal?

I'm building an enclosure for 4 12in Solo Barics, 2007 models. The question I have is he's already got the gear and he bought one of the really long, thin Memphis 4000 watt mono amplifiers. Does anyone have any experience with these? I personally think it's overpriced. I'm hoping it turns out to be a decent amp but I want to make sure the setup goes well for him.

I had this posted in the Fi forums, but I stopped getting replies so I figured I'd post out here. I bought an Fi Q12 and a Cadence TXA1000D around the new year. I got it all installed about 1.5 weeks into January. Everything was playing great for a while, sounded awesome. Well last week I was out driving around and my sub started to cut out. It would play some notes and then it would stop. A few seconds later it would start back up, play a few, and then stop. The next day I started playing it again and it sounded fine for about five minutes and it started to do the same stuff. Now, it wont hit anything. Every once in a while it will hit, out of no where, just ran…

hi guys this is my first post in a very long time... as if that matters but i do have one question to ask.... which is better cd or ipod? i have found that cd is a lot louder in treble while my ipod blasts the bass... my ipod is connected through a Alpine headunit with ipod cord and all... i was just wondering what people prefer more cd or ipods?

well my gf bought a 96 grand am and for her b-day i'm going to do a small set-up. this set-up will include an alpine cde-9881 w/ipod interface cable, alpine mrp m450 mono amp, 4guage power/ground w/60amp inline fuse, swr1242d (type r 12"), and a 1.49 cu. ft. vented box. not bad for a first system, really not bad for a small set-up. i know w/ the type r i could go w/ a bigger amp but i'm working w/ what i have left over from old set-ups in my cars. the only things i had to get was the h.u. and the box. she doesn't need much considering my system gets turned down when she gets in my lincoln lol. do you guys think this will be a decent set-up?

im trying to design my new system. im looking for quality as well as spl. i want 1 12'' SUB, 1 AMP, and 1 HU. that is all. right now im looking at a Fi 12'' Q subwoofer or should i look into the bl instead? http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum... amplifier: hifonics BXi 1606D (1600 watts) http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/... hu: kenwood excelon x791 or alpine 9883 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/... vs. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/... any changes? suggestions? help me out.

i have a 2001 4 door chevy blazer. i kno i wanan go with 2 fi 12's or 1 15. what subs should i go with and wat kind of amp should i use? please everyone just post your thoughts

I need to find out if i will need the big 3 or not with my setup. Here is what i have 1 12" kicker L7 750watts rms 2ohm dvc and am going to be purchasing a JBL GTO 1201.1 787watts at 4ohms. My car is a 95 ram 1500 and i think the alternator is 120amps will i need the big 3? information on the amp there are 3 40amp fuses so 120 amps is the most the amp will pull i was told just put that there maybe it will help you guys. THANKS! if you need more information i will try to post it up!

Does anyone have a schematic for the 2500D ? Tried contacting Orion but that lead nowhere

What would be a good size ported box for 2 ED EHQS 12's on a diamond D3 400.1? it is going in a Scion TC