General Audio

I have an 880prs running active to a soundmagus 90.4 (soon to be Sundown SAX-100.4) , running CDT M6 mids in the doors and peerless tweeters in the sail panel. I am currently looking to get rid of both the mids and tweeters and upgrade.The doors are fully deadned and sealed w/ cascade deadner and reflex pads. Just looking for some help as to which way i should go with the about 200 i have to spend. The tweeter I need to stay within 1" and mid I can go 7" at most. thanks for any help nate

I've been trying to figure this out and figured I would put it out there for the gurus. Is there any real difference between speaker level and line level signals other than the voltage and the ability to drive a speaker level load (2-4 ohms vs 100ish or whatever for an amp). I guess what I'm really asking is this: Say we have a headunit that puts out 25 watts at 4 ohms. which by my calculation would be 10 volts. Now lets take that and plug it into an amp that can handle 10 volts (or split into two amps for 5 each). Is this fine to do or would it not work well?

so i have a 90 240sx vert and what i wanted to build i just dont seem to have the money for which was 3 jl8w7's with 250 watts going to each of them enclosed behind the back seat facing it and the box to stop at the gas tank drop off in the trunk for my hu i was gonna use i thinks its pioneer that has it were it displays my cars gauges on it and then i wasnt to sure about my componets but i was thinking infinitys and going with a 6 componet setup each set up on a different amp does it sound possible?? what could i use to get around the same quality for less $$$??? i have a lack of play money now due to my little one that's 13 months old and thats also a reason that i wan…

I got in on the Jan 1st special and purchased a set of Mach 5 Mli-65 mids. I've been planning a 2 way setup for my S10 that will run these mids, a passive crossover, and the North D25 tweeters. This will run off of either 2 channels of a Punch 600.4, or one of my Van Gough 600's. The setup is going into the door panels on an MDF baffle board that I'll be building soon. My question here is these tweeters are a low FS design and run at 6 ohm, the mids are 4 ohm. I found a set of Boston passive crossovers that're rated at 2700hz and I'm assuming they're rated at 8 ohm, here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/Boston-Acoustics-2-Way...1QQcmdZViewItem If these are rated at 8 …

Amp, wiring, subs, battery.... Their all here When i do start to do the build i will make a new topic in the build logs and go through the whole thing step by step. Until then --> PICS Refurb KX2500.1 (Birthsheet of 2830) Closeup of my Chameleon paint job on the end caps. My pair of RE SX 15's and my old sub amp AKA new front channel amp and CD components (going active after install complete) The Oddysey 1500 1/0 25 ft stinger, 2X 1/0 5ft Rockford Fosgate power/ground wire Snagged from the fleamarket for 50 bucks (radioactive wanted 300) Old Boston GS1500 subs (still sound absolutely amazing) Old VS New 2 year old install on my 550HP charged 88 grand marquis (s…

My goal for my rebuild is mainly spl with sq properties(140db+ ). I listen to all types of music. But mostly R&B and Rock. Current system: Alt- Stock (65 or 70amp) Batt- Stock Head Unit: Aplpine 9881 Speakers: Front- Infinity Refremce 5.25" Rear- N/a Center- Stock Ford 5x7 Subwoofer- 1400w Pioneer Shallow Mount Amplifier- 1400w Hitron 2 Channel class a/b (sucks @ss) The stuff that is on the chopping block is: The biggest box I can fit behind my seat with 3/4" mdf: Length- 60" Bottom width-10" Top width- 4" Height- 24" I would perfer it to be ported, but i dont know what specs it would be. If it cant be ported its fine by me. Subwoo…

I recently installed a Pioneer Premier 490iB in and 01 accord. The install kit had a wire for a dimmer (orange w/ white stripe) and an illumination wire (orange) the Pio HU only has an orange illumination wire. So I combined the two together and now my friends dimmable dash lights do not work. I have googled this to death, found a few topics with the same problem but none with an answer... So I went back in an just snipped the dimmer wire away from the illumination wires but the problem still remains. I really don't see how the dimmer is controlled through the headunit. I could have possible blew a fuse when I wired it like I did but I went through all the fuses I could …

ok i am building a whole new setup for my truck spending some money for new alt and battery's now i dont know weather to do 4 12's or 2 18 in the back of my blazer. what would everyone recommend doing if they had the choice. between the 4 12's or 2 18's im not going for pur SPL but i would like my truck to be loud with the bass but also able to hear the music. anything and any opions are welcome

For those of you waiting for some news and new products, there you are: http://blog.sounddomain.com/gadget/

i got about 700$ to spend and im thinking this is what im gonna do 1. (4) 18" mach 5 audio MJ subs all single 4 ohm 2. power it with (2) 2200 power acoustik 2 channel amps note: might get the 2600 3. kicker 4 gauge wire kit 4. custom sealed box with subs facing up this will be going into a 2002 escalade and i have the 3rd row seat took out and my last set-up was a kicker 1200.1 with a 15 inch L7 but do u think if i go with this setup it would out pump (2) 15 inch L7 subs? i know these are SQ subs but they should get very loud knowing im getting 4 of them

89' CRX, unmolested, pretty clean, came on 17" enkei shoguns, was a 50 yr old ladies car , very clean inside. Great base to start from, no fast and the furios crap will be bolted on to this.. But It will have a ALpin 7949 deck, 2 tc 3hp/FI 12" subs, on a AMerican bass xd3000. And a set of the Lanzar Opti6c comps on my old school Sony xm-5046.. should be a great project

My setup is 4 Q15's tuned to 34hz (lowering it to 28hz soon..hopefully) on an Incriminator Audio 40.1 @ .5ohms in a Dodge Magnum.

Hi, I drive a 2007 Ford Fusion and I am having some trouble finding a better alternator, could anyone give me a few places I could look that might have one for me? I plan on running a 18" Fi BTL with Kicker ZX2500.1 and maybe 2 batts. Also about what size alternator should I be looking at? Thanks for any input

Heard they were going out of business. Check it out.... http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.p...730#post3854730

question 1) what in the world do i use to crimp the ring terminals on my 0g wire???? or what should i say is the best and most efficient way to do it. i mean, if i have to i will go out and buy a special tool but i wouldnt even know what tool to buy because ive never seen a crimper that big. question 2) if i have two kinetiks, one in the back & one under the hood, should i ground my amps to the negative terminal or still to the chassis? and i was also wondering do i still need to send a wire from the neg. terminal on the battery in the back back to the chassis somewhere? thanks -wes

Hey i made my box for my truck its 2.5 cu. ft per chamber and its for 2 fi q's. Im not sure exactly how to measure out how long or wide my ports need to be. Any help is greatly appreciated

Hi. I have recently been having problems with my Kicker sound system. I have a Kicker ZX750 Mono Amp, 2 12 in. Kicker Comps, Kicker KS69 Speakers, and a Kicker 4 gauge wiring kit. I have only been using the system for about 2-3 months now. Latly, however, the bass has been cutting in and out. What I mean by that is that on songs that had nice bass before...now the bass doesn't play half of the song. It's like every other three beats. Do I need a power cap or what is going on here? My headlights are also dimming when the bass does pound (but not all the time). Also, on the amp, there is a frequency setting that I am not sure what to set at. Does anyone have any suggestions…

just bought a kinetik 800 n i need to kno how to hook it up if some one could help me that would be great thanks

sorry for the lack of wisdom, but could somebody tell me what port noise sounds like? Because I just put my system in my car and unless i have the volume turned down to zero, my sub is constantly playing kinda loudly. Could this be how the amp settings are set?

im thinking about buying a new alt. i talk to a guy at the chevy dealership and he said that a 160 amp alt would be plenty to run 2 batts and draw of around 240 amps on 1 of the batteries. im wondering that if i get a 160 would it be good and how long it would last. its about 50 bucks cheaper than the 200 amp one. kinda on a budget.

is there anyone here that bulid boxes?

So far I have: Hyundai Accent GT: gutted, stuffed with 65 cans of expanding foam, 14 gallons of bondo that need removed from the windows and redone by welding sheetmetal instead. 320lbs of 3/4"mdf for the false floor, ceiling, doors, roof, dashboard, and subwoofer chamber/wall. I had 5 1gallon buckets of Spectrum Firewall...sold 2, trying to sell the rest, and a 5 gallon bucket of Spectrum Sludge...trying to sell that too. 6 Optima Red tops...getting 2 more. An Audio Control 6Xs, getting a second one when i get the crossovers so I have 2 bandpassed signals and 1 HP, all at 24dB/oct, then using deck/sub amps to cross the subs. 2 Vifa XT25TG30 Ring Radiator Tweets, a KX200.…

i want to design a box for my 10in ssds. i kinda wanted to go ported so they require at least .9 of airspace after displacments. the space i have to work with is 53in long 15in tall bottom depth around 11in top around 4in. its going in a standard cab s10 so if anyone has better ideas that would be cool i just kinda wanted to go ported this time instead of sealed but if i cant it aint no problem

We got an exclusive pre-release of Alpine's 2008 lineup. http://www.floridacaraudio.com/?p=19 Be sure to check this new Audyssey Imprint technology. It does time alignment by frequency!

I'm thinking about getting a circle jig for my router, since my jig saw abilities seem to be getting awful rusty. I saw these http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009K77D?smid=A...mp;linkCode=asn http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&WebPage_ID=3 What kind of bit do you need?