General Audio

hey i jus got 2 alpine type r's with a kicker zx1000 amp installed in my 2001 toyota avalon. I was just wondering how long it will take to break them in? Like i dont think i should blast them right away, but how long should i wait until i can use them to their full potential? thanks

Hey guys, Heres my problem: My system isn't loud enough for me anymore. What I have: -12" Soundsplinter rlp -Planet Audio amp [does 650 into 2ohms(which is what I'm running my sub at)] -2.6 @ 34hrz box I think its a combination of my mildly weak amp, and not quite the right size box thats throwing me off, but then again, I could be wrong. What I'm considering doing is selling my RL-P 12" and the amp with the box for as much as I can, and with it purchasing a 15" sub (most likely another rl-p) and a 1400w amp and then building a new box. I'm also considering buying another 12", buying that same 1400w amp, and running 2 12"s. If I'm thrifty and get some good deals, I'm sure…

Looking to put some in my brother's car, since he's taking my AA 18" off my hands. He's on a budget, but I read a bit about these http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=11417 Can anyone give me some advice, or refer me to something good for a comparable price. They will be going on a JL http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=438 The sub is already on a JL 1000/1. I'm doing my car full Sundown but we already had these amps.

I need 4 yards of the silver comfort suede that select product sells. SP actually calls it gray but looks silver to me. Part # CSUEDEGREY Now that SP is dealer only, I'm kind of screwed. I can't find what I need anywhere else so my headliner remains unfinished! Thanks!

Small trunk acura integra coupe, (wish hatch, but anyways) for 1 15" Nightshade Total trunk= around 11 cubic feet Height= 14 inches Width= 25 Opening= 15 inches Wheel Well Area to back of trunk= 10 inches Depth= 20 inches

Can you believe i finally got to meter the MOAB today ;D I got in the lane and they had the 30sec crapp going on and had a wackass burned cd none of the tracks were labled and only jumped in increments of 5. > i did the sweep and by the time i found the track with the tone my time was up > we only got 1 run... Rippoff but i did manage to get a 149.8db @ 5oHz ON THE DASH.

My FI BTL15 is on its way and right now im working on getting the money for a high output alternator...locally a guy can make me a 120 Amp Alt. Is a 120 Amp alt enough to power the 15" Btl????...im going to be running a Hifonics BRZ 2100 at 1 ohm probably round 1900-2000watts steadily....im an everyday banger so its gunna be seeing a lot of work I have a Kinetik HC1400 as my main battery and a HC2000 in the trunk (Upgraded Big 3 to 0AWG)

My Icon 12" stopped working the other day. I don't think it's blown and the amp still powers on too. Anyways, I bought back my old setup which is the Fi BTL 15 and Cadence ZRS-9. So loud. I need to take down my headliner to sound deaden it. Too many vibrations coming through the roof. Wonder if anyone that's coming down for scrapin' the coast this year would want to help, lol.

I am building a box for 2 SA-12's for the trunk of my altima. I want to have a square port between the 2 subs on the front of the box, looking somewhat like this: O | O sub port sub Using 3/4" MDF and outside dimensions, my box's height can only have ~ a height of 16.5", a width of 33", and a depth of 16.5" (however, the depth can be altered a good bit if needed) I need to know what dimensions to make the port and the dimensions of the box itself if anyone could help. Thanks.

Kids Bop kills it in his car!!!

i'm trying to import cds on my itunes i want to know what import settings should i put so it will import where i still get cd quality

Rite now I'm in the middle of the install of my Clarus 61-2 component set. I have a pre-existing hole from the other tweeter, which is where the C1 will be flush mounted. Since the C1 doesn't have the "screw on" flush mount option like the type-r had I have to some how secure the tweeter. Scott recommended me hot gluing but it was difficult because it dried too fast and it basically cracked and peeled apart, (plastic on plastic) (maybe i used the wrong hot glue?) I also tried using Epoxy Putty but it didn't work well either. Any recommendations and ideas would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, -Mike

Ok, I know some of the more popular manufacturers on here. But does anyone have any experience with Atomic? I want good, bad, satisfactory.....

So who all is going to be there, gonna be a 1x show with alot of cool rides and setups. Anyone from SSA gonna be there? Will be at the golden state mall in bakersfield california

There are no Termlabs in town I live in Pensacola, FL but the best shop in town uses a Gold-Line SPL 162, which they said that was calibrated to be within 1db of the B&K spl meters. I do not know anything about these meters so I am asking you guys how accurate they are, this shop sells US Amps and RE Audio, Critical Mass and other high quality brands so I figured that the Gold-Line SPL meter would also be high quality since that is how they deal with high quality equipment. Now for the results: Vehicle: 2004 Dodge Durango HU: Kenwood KDC-X891 Subs: 2 AQ 15" HD3's Sub amps: 2 US Amps MD3D's, strapped(2007 models) Song played: Walk it Out SPL score: 151.7 db sealed up o…

Hey there everyone....I have a few friends who do a little free "tweak and test" thing for SPL every couple weeks. The next one is Saturday, August 20th (weather permitting of course.) It will be from 4pm-9pm at the Brunswick car show. The city holds a car show/crusin gig every Saturday at Laurel Square Shopping Center. They have their own space to do test and tune, just look for the EZ-UP tent and some loud cars around it. The address is 1733 Pearl Road, Brunswick Ohio 44212. It's about 18 miles south of Cleveland and about 20 miles north of Akron. Of course its free. They will be having a competition there in the fall where all money paid in to compete gets paid back to…

I am trying to plan out my build so that I can place things and make my wiring but I have a few questions about a few things. I have a 1/0 run of power from my front going back to 2 extra batteries. I will be upgrading my big 3 4g with all 1/0 wires. In the back of my trailblazer will be the extra batteries. Now, I will just run the main power wire to the first battery then run a short wire to the + on the second battery, correct? And as far as the ground.. I'm sure it would be best to ground both batteries off to the frame... Should I run a short wire between the 2 -'s on both the extra batteries as well? And I'm also assuming that along with the fuse after the battery u…

If you live in the Las Vegas, NV area or are planning to visit Las Vegas in the near future, please come by and visit us at Performance Audio www.performanceaudiolvnv.com. We are a Mobile Electronics Top 12 Retailer featuring 2011 Installer of the Year, Jon Webb. We are THE place to visit if you want to take your system to the next level. If you want a simple upgrade or a full blown competition show vehicle, we are the place for you. Please mention that you saw this post. We look forward to seeing you!

The 12 Volt Guru also known as Dave Edwards, is a simply amazing man to talk with. I gotta tell eveyone he seems such a simple down to earth man that its rather amazing. I just gotta tell all of you who haven't spkoe to him if you ever get the chance to pelase do so, J

OHM'S law There are 2 base formulae which will help you to understand the relationship between current , voltage , resistance and power . If you have any two of the parameters, you can calculate the other two parameters. OHM'S LAW BASE FORMULAS P=I*E E=I*R TO FIND VOLTAGE E=P/I E=I*R E=SQR(P*R) TO FIND CURRENT I=P/E I=E/R I=SQR(P/R) TO FIND POWER P=I*E P=E2/R P=I2*R TO FIND RESISTANCE R=E2/P R=E/I R=P/I2 P = Power in Watts E = Electromotive Force in Volts I = Electrical Current in Amps R = Electrical Resistance in Ohms SQR = Square Root Note: I use 'E' to represent voltage most of the time but sometimes you'll see 'V' used for voltage. Don't let it confuse y…

Does anyone on here know where i can get a x or z 15" basket. Tried looking online and nothing.

Im looking to do a set up for a 2002 honda accord 4 door. Im willing to take in all advice to how i should go about it. Im interested in getting the Fi Audio SP4 but open to suggestions. Thinking about powering it with a crescendo amp possibly. I also want the set up to sound as clean and clear as possible. It will be a daily driver set up with the possibility of some local spl contests. Let me know what you think or what you have done.

i am new to building boxes and would like to know, about how accurate is the re box tool? I made a pretty nice little box tuned to 35 HZ and have no clue how accurate this tool is, so it would be good to know beforehand. thanks

Hi all- I have been battling with alternator whine for a majority of my car audio hobby. I have tried countless things. I had just made an LC filter to filter out noise in the power line of my radio thinking it was finally it, but unfortuately it remained. Then it dawned on me, I have 2 amps for speakers in my car now and I tried disconnecting the one I've had for years. The noise went away, which is great to finally know what is causing it. The problem is I don't have the cash to buy a new amp for my midbass. Does anyone have any idea where to start troubleshooting inside the amp for something like this? I'm a fourth year electrical engineering student, so I'm quite …

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