General Audio

I have 4 7inch Carbon Fiber AAs and a SAX 100.4D with a Alpine ida-x305s. My problem I have is when I turn the volume up on my head unit to the volume where my subs play great at the 7" AAs cannot keep up and I start to smell them very strongly, if i play them at a level where the AAs are playing fine my subs are barely moving and the volume on the head unit isn't close to where I set it at regularly. I had a previous front stage of (2) Alpine Type R component sets and they played amazing at the level I play my subs at.. because of this i have cut the remote wire on my 100.4 and have not been enjoying them. I don't know if it's because of the install/leaky door.. or if it…

I'm looking for a new vehicle. Something like an suv or truck. I've been looking at Jeep Cherokee, Dodge Durango,and the Land Rover Discovery, Early 2000 models. I'm really leaning toward to Land rover as they are almost all leather with sunroofs. I was just wondering how good these cars are as far as Stock Quietness, Window seals, ability to add speakers (my next system will be a 3 way active so fitting that in there will be key.) Also if anyone knows any similar vehicles they have liked gimme a shout and I'll take a look.

this might come off as stupid on my part and im just trying to learn as much as i can so please no hate but why does when somebody ask about two different subs people always say there way different goals but theres only 3 goals that i know of deep sq or spl and when you say you want a sub that does one of those people say its 99.9 percent the build if thats true shouldnt you just get the sub with the most motor force and just build the box for what you want

Here is a couple of my favorite: A$AP Ferg - Shabba Remix ft. Shabba Ranks, Busta Rhymes & Migos http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGo9ep68ej8 3 Six Mafia "Late Night Tip" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpk6FTbxvc4

Thinking of running 4 FUSION REACTOR 4" Coaxials http://www.fusioncaraudio.com/north-....aspx#addninfo, 2 in each door. I want to make a plate to fit 2 in each of my factory 2003 Mazda Protege ES 5x7 positions in my front doors. Will be running them off a DSC450 bridged, so 100 watts rms a set. With 2 Kenwood KFC-ST30 tweets in the factory mounts run off the deck, 22 watts rms. No rear fill, gonna leave 6x9 holes open. I want to try something different, tired of just replacing factory speakers with same size upgrades, but not ready to do full blown door pods yet. So, what do y'all think? I think it would be nice and loud yet crisp. Not really anal about having alot of mid…

I'm thinking about getting a circle jig for my router, since my jig saw abilities seem to be getting awful rusty. I saw these http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009K77D?smid=A...mp;linkCode=asn http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&WebPage_ID=3 What kind of bit do you need?

i have been on this forum and looking around at other guys cars/trucks. they all seem to get one subwoofer say a 12/15 inch woofer and on the videos they are flexing like crazy the roof of the car the trunk side windows and so on. they put a 2000-3000 watt sundown on it what im getting at why not get woofers that take less watts like 4 or 8 subwoofers that take lets say 150-200 watts rms per subwoofer and use less watts from your amp and your alternator and that should get way more output from like 1100 watts from your amp then getting a big 3500 watt monster that will pull 350 amps on one subwoofer and make your volts drop in low 11s im not trying to start a war just …

Ok so i'm at a crossroads. I have a bit of a problem. I want a system that consists of all the same stuff if i go with a company like pioneer or alpine. That or i'll mitch match a bunch of stuff. BUT i have a deck. CDA-9887. Its pretty cool. Originally i wanted a DEH-P880PRS, but couldn't get ahold of one for the right price. Now I have a friend who also runs a car stereo shop. He is currently sitting on 3 880PRS decks and needs to get rid of them. I think i can pick one up for myself for about 250. So do i Buy one and sell my 9887 and go all pioneer. PRS comonents, up front and a 3 way active setup with a Shallow 10" in the back, or do i stick with Alpine get…

I saw this video from D'Amore and was wondering what everyone thought about it?

Yeah i thought that'd get some attention. I've got a freind that has 2 12" MA Hardkore (actually not as bad as i thought theyd be), and he has a Boss 3000 watt amp powering them. I smirked a little when i saw the amp he had on them, and it got me curious, what do you guys think/know the actual rms on this thing is? And how does boss even get away with overrating them so d4mn much? The title is a joke, and only intended to get some attention and maybe get a few people frustrated.

Hey guys, i decided to upgrade from my JL 12w0. Decided to go with two sundown sa12's. need some help because im still kinda new to this. 1. the subs are dual 2 ohm. so if i buy an amp, would i wire it to 2 ohm or 1 ohm? 2. Sundown audio recommends 1.75 - 2 cubic feet. to get more out of my subs would i want a smaller box? larger box? or the recommended size? 3. i plan on getting a 1500 watt amplifier so i can send 750 rms per sub, sa12's are highly underrated in rms i heard. i am on a budget so i would like a amplifier thats relatively cheap without sacrificing alot quality. feel free to add anything, im open to all suggestions, but im solid on the subs. just thought i'd…

Well I was just told that I am not allowed to install my own equipment when I get it. The reason is because of my warrenty. But I will be taking all my stuff to a car audio install place. I will try and ask them if I can watch but when I get home I'm going to be tuning it myself and double checking the wiring just in case.

have looked and searched and have found almost no info about them http://www.champaudio.net/merlon_menu.htm thanks for any help.

Does any one remember the Jazz orientated Alpine Test CD's of about 12-15 years ago? Any availablity

Hey guys I am looking to upgrade my head unit in my boat. I am redoing the hole thing. I have two 15 SSA in ported boxes. (Still waiting on this stuff) For highs I have eight Hertz 6.5" at 4 ohms with two Hertz amps running them in stereo. I dont have room for and head other than a 1-Din. I have a marine Kenwood now in boat with two wired remotes. Bluetooth is a must! My Kenwood now is not and running a cable to phone sucks. I play 90% of my music from phone. I am willing to ditch the wired remotes for a better head. I did order Kenwoods new marine unit it is Bluetooth but feel there is better.... I want good eq controls,is higher rca volts better? The new Kenwood was lik…

Some people wanted to see some larger cable so here you go. This is a shot of three-conductor 750MCM next to a 2" IMC coupling. The coupling is 2.5" in diameter so that gives you an idea of how large this stuff is. Picture is misleading though as the cable is actually about 3.1" in diameter. This stuff weighs 18lbs. per foot!!! And here's a shot of 750kcmil next to the three-conductor. This stuff is no joke. It can handle over 10Kamps of current!!! I have some even large stuff, but it was buried on a spool and I couldn't get to it to take some photos. And last but not least, my favorite big'uns!

Car is a 2006 nissan altima se-r It's a setup for my neighbor so nothing used(sorry guys) Electrical is already taken care of... i've done the big 3 and ordered 2 batts. He has absolutely no care in the world for sq and just wants an insanely loud setup. budget for sub(s) & amp are 1500 and there's 4 cubes net to work with.

n the next couple weeks i plan on starting to order everything for my system so i can have it done by summer. i am stuck between the HDC312 and BTL12.... i have heard the btl in person and am in love with it, and also have heard nothing but good things from people that own them. to me they just seem like an overall better choice, but that may just be because of all the good i have heard/seen about them. the HDC312 people are telling me is comparable to the BTL12, can take just as much power as the BTL, and can get just as loud. i dont know how true that is, but if it is on the same level as the BTL i would consider buying it, especially for the price. also from what a lot…

Alright so when I get out of college soon i plan on buying a Mitsubishi Evo as I am completely in love with them lol. Ive got an Fi BL 15 now and it just doesn't do it for me, not loud enough at all. I would love to have a ridiculously loud setup for the next car, and was considering an SUV so I can go even louder, but hate driving them. What is the loudest setup I can put in a car without walling it off and without worrying about the windshield cracking on me? Would love to stick with Fi and upgrade to btl's. Would one Fi btl 18 be too much, or two btl 15's? How many watts roughly until i have to worry about the windshield?

ok so what im wanting to know is what are the differences between an aero port or a normal cutout port? which is better for maintaiing spl and sq, more of the lines of getting louder? i do like the style and looks of an aero port but what are the advantages and disadvantages? id there any way to know what size aero port to get for a specific tuning? any help would be greatfully helped

I know most of the members don't like elemental designs due to the owner, but how is the sound deadening? Or better yet, liquid deadening in general? My car has a horrible rattle, and it's about time I've done something. Here's the link. http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_24&products_id=53 For now, I think it'll be good. I'm not doing anything super serious with my setup yet, so I think it'll be good enough for now, especially at the price. While your here, how do you feel about the subs? I'm thinking about buying one from someone on craigslist for $200 in a ported box tuned to 26hz. Not sure about the tuning, but the driver itself seems legit. It's …

So I'm still new to car audio and dont know all the terms or how everything works. There are two things I'm still not sure about. 1) When you set amp gains, are you actually changing the amount of power coming from the amp? As in, if I have a 1000rms amp, by setting the gains lower can I actually just put out 500rms to the sub? I've heard mixed responses, but that you are always putting out what ever the amp is rated at. Because if this is the case, can't you run like a 2000 watt amp on stock electrical, but then just dial it back to like 800 rms or so? 2) What does "full tilt mean"? Is that just volume all the way up (before clipping I'm guessing) Thanks!

Ok this is a continuation of another thread that was being hijacked. So I thought I would create it here. What? No way...... they ask u what drivers u have in the rear and u dont have any? Man thats hard to believe... but maybe thats cuz I am not properly sound deadened? I think that would make a huge difference. People usually say "hey are your rear speakers working?" cuz all the sound is coming from my front components. And there is nothing in the rear doors. I just want the people in the rear to hear as good as us in the front and I thought that wasn't possible without having some rear fill. But I dunno... If what you say is true, then I would be happy to not have an…

let's say----someone here was to make a limited batch of handmade amps that were very easy on the pocketbook----I have a few questions--- 1----what options would you want---power wise and such 2----what size would be the best 3----what class would you want 4---and finally would you buy from someone here building amps? just wondering

Anyone had luck with the dodge durangos and if so how do they compare to blazers and explorers? I am looking for a new suv in the 2000 (year) range. and I like the look better but herd they dont do as good on the meter as explorers and blazers. I have 2 12" BTL Fully Loaded subs. any feedback would be awesome Thanks, Brock