General Audio

So here goes. Well I decided one day to tear out the center console in my truck with the intention of putting a new one in there.. Well 3 years later.. still no center console. So thats where it brings me up to pretty much till last weekend. Last week end I got bored and decided to start putting it together again I dug out the mounting brackets and started brain storming that it would be better to build one rather than buy one so i could build it to my specs and add a few things. So to give you an idea what kinda vehicle its going in is a 2002 F250 with the diesel engine. So Im sure as long as I dont go crazy my electrical system will be fine. The only thing I have done t…

So I'm competing in MECA this year (been going to the comps the last year but never had my subs in when i went) and I'm building my daughter a power wheels for MECA Kids. shes in the 5 and under class so I can only run a single 8 and no bigger than a 20a fuse to the amp. So I picked up a cheap h/u and a pair of 4x6 were given to me. I'm getting a memphis 50.2 to run the sub, just because I know the punishment my friends and I have put these amps through. So my 2 questions are this. 1, What battery would you use with limited space to keep it playing. I found Kinetik HC600 for 60 bucks new online and figured it was a pretty good candidate since it fit in the limited room I …

Hi Everyone. Newbie here with insufficient knowledge to make informed decisions. I have a 2019 Volkswagen Caddy SWB van. Plenty of sound deadening and carpet to go in along with many mechanical and cosmetic modifications. Daily driver, sound quality bias, wide variety of music. I’d like to keep the factory RCD330 head unit, put Evil 6.5”s and Evil tweeters in the factory locations, and have one or two 12” subs directly behind the front seats in what would be the rear passenger footwells. No plans for rear fill. The Evils will fit – tweeters out front on top of the dash, 6.5s in the front lower corner of the doors. Might be able to position the twe…

I have a 12inch dcon. It says that 2.25cu.ft. is "optimal" and the smallest you should build it is 1.75cu.ft. Lets say they are both tuned the same. What is the difference in sound, etc? What is lost or gained by making the box that much bigger? Also, I listen to mostly rock with a decent amount of rap music thrown in there. I'm looking for a nice middle ground tuning and a box that can be easily moved if needed. I was considering 2.0cu.ft. tuned to 32hz. Would you suggest something different? Thanks. (also, I know less power usually calls for a bigger box, I'll be running 340rms or slightly over to the sub) Thanks!

So first off, I'm running a '99 Pontiac Grand Am. As we all know, the space in a Grand Am is EXTREMELY limited when it comes to car audio installs.. SO I had a few questions for my future install. I'm really looking into an 18" Fi BTL for the car, but there is not enough room in the trunk to build a box big enough to appropriately house this large of a subwoofer. So my questions are: 1) If I were to take out my back seats and just build a wall to put the sub in, would this be a better idea? 2) If so, what would I do about porting the "wall" to a specific frequency? (30-35 hertz) 3) If a wall isn't the best route to take in this situation, are there any other ways to s…

so i finally manned up and decided to wall my s10. im doing two 15inch aa mayhems. i am having shizzzon design my box and i will build it. im posting this to ask for tip and tricks to doing a wall from anyone that has done one. Any input is apretiated.

Like It states im building my first system. So along with that comes alot of questions, and alot i have. Through research I have found most of the info I need but I just need other options or maybe Im going in the wrong direction. So with that said lemme explain. I have a 2002 F250 Diesel That I am looking to upgrade my sound. I am not looking for a major system that will make my neighbors go def its really for my enjoyment. So What I have questions about are set ups in general. Ive currently got a head unit already it is http://www.docs.sony.com/release/specs/CDXGT55UIW_mksp.pdf . I Have a amp sitting around but I dont know much about it. it is a pioneer 2 channel rated …

So i am starting a new build soon over my old Sundown audio sa8 v 1.75s (4 of them). So i am looking for some peoples input on my new system. The subs i am looking to change out for are 1. One Sundown audio z-4 18 $609.00 2. One SSA Zcon 18 $542.00 3. One SSA evil 18 $799.00 4. Four Sundown audio Sa-8's v.2 $740.00 5. Two Sundown audio X-15's $778.00 Just wondering what everyone thinks. Three of them are single 18's, so wondering if that is better then the 2 15's and the 4 8's. The car is a 2004 hyundai elantra gt HB ( my old build log) http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/52732-hyundai-elantra-hb/page-6?hl=holykaos Still have a few issues with the car, …

I was wondering what every one uses to make a mp3 cd i use nero and i cant figure out how to edit the id3 tags, can someone help?

I kind of asked about this in my thread about my box, but didn't get any replies, so I figured I'd start a new thread. I know that using bus bars works. I'm mainly planning on doing it since I'm running 1/0 and I need something smaller for my amps, and there aren't a ton of distribution blocks that will work for that, and the bars will be cheaper, free really... I've got an old 300 amp panel in my barn that I got off a job a couple years ago. I'm planning to hack out the bus bars from it, run my 1/0 from batteries to it, and tie my amps into it also. I might plasti-dip the positive to prevent arcing. I'm also thinking about mounting them to my box. Opinions or recommenda…

how much does the sds butyl rope cost? cause ive got several 100' rolls of butyl tape and a couple rolls of what looks just like the sds butyl rope that i got from my cuzzin the installs windshield since its the same thing wouldnt window sealant be cheaper?

ok basicly im after the best subs for daily use (usually 30minute driving) and i was wondering how much it cost to ship btl 15's hopefully 2.. and what amp would you use to run them both? (if it matters i have a holden vt unless ur aussie u have no idea) anybody here from Australia and can help me out any on how to pay, how much shiping is and all that other stuff lol

I need to buy a new 4-channnel amplifier and I think i've narrowed it down to three amps and was wondering which would have the best sq. 1.I-450 - Zapco iForce Series 360 Watt Amplifier 2.Memphis 16-PR4.50 3.Kicker 08ZX350.4 Can anyone vouch for these amplifiers and if anyone has any other suggestions tell me. I need an amp that can put out around 75-100rms at 2 ohms for around $200 or less

well i found a couple different trucks around here, and i found one that i really like. its a 1989 s-10 standard cab, 4cyl, 5spd. i think there was one little ding on the hood, clear coat was faded off, but the actual color is for the most part uniform all around. its got a topper on it, vinyl bench seat that from when i looked at it, didnt look ripped or anything, dash i didnt see cracks or anything from heat. he's asking $800 but i have $700 cash to offer him, im waiting for him to call me since he's been busy since i drove it (didnt offer him anything yet but he said he wont sell the truck since i want it) its a very nice truck for an 89, drives nice (no power steering…

well i have come across this store called mobile sound works on ebay i was just wondering if it is a good store or if anyone has went through them before thanks

Today i hooked an amp up to my front stage. Sounds great, except for the buzzing i can hear when music is paused. My amp for the front stage is grounded the same way my amp for my sub is, and yet i still get buzzing. It's kind of a high pitched buzzing, with really high pitched sounds mixed in that kind of fluctuate. It only buzzes when there's a source though. Once i plug my iphone into the head unit, the buzzing starts. And using the touch screen on the iphone, such as scrolling, makes a sound. I can hear it whenever i scroll with the screen. My head unit can't be the problem. I used to have a low rumble with my sub (like this buzzing) and i fixed the ground on my hea…

How to bypass a Pioneer 90b

How is this accomplished? I've heard something about replacing ALL of the factory speaker wire?

Ok, I cant find any info on how to do this, so I would appreciate someone who could tell me where the factory amp is located and what wires go where. Thanks, Tim Klein

Ok so looking for both front door and rear door speakers to match up with a Nendo C1100.4. I'm looking at the CDT audio HD-63 Braxial set (180 RMS) and the HD-61A set (170 RMS). both sets are 6.5" woofers and come with both crossovers and tweeters. Thought of using the tweeters off the rear set (HD-61A)in the front for a total of 4 tweets in the front. Any recommendations? thoughts? Ideas? Is CDT audio a good brand? Is the amp too much for those speakers? Any other companies I should consider to match up with the C1100.4? Also I really want to keep things as factory LOOKING as possible at this time. Minor modding is cool but not really wanting to do glass and the…

What is the average gain you would get from a mid size trunk car???? Like my car....and how do you calc. this out??

The wiring inside an enclosure from one sub to the other can be slack right? Will it produce any noise or move around when the subs are playing? Thanks

ok i 2 alpine type rs dual 4 ohm voice coils. i have 2 cadence txa750ds.....you can hook them together to get more power...but my problem is that when you hook up the two amps it can only handle a 2ohm load...bbut if i hook up just 1 amp it can handle a 1 ohm load......so what iwant to know is should i bridge the 2 amps and run it at 4 ohms or should i just run 1 at 1 ohms....there is no spec for the amp if its bridged with a 4 ohm load..............thanks

hi, I'm using the online port calculator at RE Audio to calculate the port dimensions. However, if i want to use two subs in a shared air space, how do i calculate the port dimensions for a shared port on the two subs? or it does not matter since the port dimensions will depend on the box volume only.

Dont think it worked, so go to http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm87/MV...=Portlength.jpg. The red line is the right way of calculating port length, right? When i calculate it, i get 18.5" total port length, but when the RE Enclosure calculator does it, it gets 19.625. It can't get the double baffle, so shouldn't the RE calculator come up with 17.75" of port length? I just want to make sure that i'm right or that i'm wrong, 'cause i dont see how it could be that far off.