General Audio

I have NEVER in my life owned a car, esp one with a trunk. I love bass but need room for storage, so I am thinking of putting a single 12" Fi BTL back there (charger). Will 1 12" sub ported be enough?? Will I be better off going with 2 10" BL's ported instead? I know this is a super dumb question, but I want to plan everything out perfectly before I start buying stuff. Thanks.

I am wiring up a 2011 mazda 3 wiring harness, and I have a wire harness that came with my Pioneer 3200bt and then I have the wire harness that is for my mazda 3, all of the colors matchup, except I am confused by a few things. 1. I have a ground with a metal "C" looking end on the 3200bt wire harness then on my mazda 3 wire harness I have a black wire on it as well that is ground too, what do I need to do with both grounds? I will be using a 12V relay if this helps at all, but still not sure how to hook both grounds up 2. On the 3200bt wire harness I have a wire that says "Reverse Gear Signal Input" but I don't have a purple wire on the mazda harness that goes to it, is t…

How should i get the sundown audio logo on my subwoofer box? was it on here where someone had an expensive saw/router that was on a computer you could give it an image and it would cut it out (maybe not) looking forward to any ideas

Will this amp run @ 0.5 ohm daily with: 2 runs of positive in 1/0 4 runs of ground in 1/0 (to the frame) Optima Yellow Top as starter batt Batcap 2000 in the trunk Stock alt (100A) Has anybody ever run this amp @ a 0.5 ohm load?

Hey everyone I have 2004 Ford F-150 STX regular cab and I am downgrading from my 2 12'' Memphis C3's to more of a sound quality setup. I am thinking of going with one Sundown SA-8. I really dont know much about these woofers but I have heard great things. What kind of box would be best for a SQ setup with that sub? Here are a few pics of my old set up in my truck so you know what I have to work with. My truck

so i am looking into one of these for my next build. my idea is to have this installed so when i am bumping i can see how much rms is going to my subs. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350286314830&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT i think this would be pretty cool to have as i could monitor how much rms the subs are getting and if the amps start to clip i will see it on the clamp meter. well i think i will see something but i could be wrong. so i would like some input: 1. would this we a useful tool 2. would you use one 3. yes i know this wouldn't tell me rms it would only tell me current but current multiply by the voltage i get wattage! my next buil…

im currently running one set of alpine type r 6.5 components on a diamond d1 250.2 with a high pass filter on. now for a 300+ dollar set of speakers when i bought them i dont think they have any midbass at all, a few shops ive been to said that they are playing jsut fine but i guess that means i need to upgrade. im planning on scrapping my 4 diamond 10s in a sealed box and going with 2 fi bl 12s ported and tuned to 32hz, but i fear that ill have a big gap where my mids dont perform. what do yall suggest in the 300-400 price range i was looking at these ZRS-710KIT - ZRS SERIES - Cadence Acoustics, LTD because i heard a set of coaxial 6.5s in the same truck i have and they …

i have always done legal spl with everything sealed up, i have just recently started doing usaci i drive a ford econoline not walled, i just hit 148.2 in the 0-600 is that good or should i not be impressed

I just ordered some of the Fatmat Rattletrap sound deadener for the trunk. Here are the specs.... Tremendous Bass Gains 80 Mil Thick 1 Mil PSA(Pressure Sensitive Adhesive) Gain Unbelievable Sound Quality Stop Rattles, Vibration & Noise Control Reduce Distortion Massive DB Gains Practically eliminate Road Noise, Loud Exhaust and Engine Noise Odorless (Has No Odor-Leaves No Odor) Easy Installation (everything needed is supplied) Great For Firewalls, Floors, Doors, Trunks, Side Panels. Roofs and more...... May Be Placed Under The Hood Paintable Superb Adhesion Patented Rubberized Compound Polished Aluminum Shield Very Flexible Keeps Heat In-Cold Out in t…

I have a 2011 Mazda 3 and I think my speakers are 5x7's, but from all the reviews i've read, most people say that round speakers are better than ovals, so would a 5" be better than a 5x7? I would like to put 6.5" in my car but I don't know if they would fit or not.

Hey I’m thinking bout buying 300’ of sky high 14 gauge speaker wire. Will it be good enough to use as wiring for my speakers. Up to 300 watts would be going through it. I just rather get a bunch of wires so I don’t need to keep buying if I ever run out from batches. I’ve had 12 gauge but for some speakers with push terminals it’s too big. The 14 fits fine so I’m thinking it’ll be fine. Could I get some feed back

Who among you can build THE best sounding car audio system that is NOT connected to your vehicle’s charging system? How well can you build a stand-alone electrical source that will properly power your audio system? And, yes, it can and it has been done! Please visit *removed*, scroll down to TAKE THE BATCAP CHALLENGE toward the lower right hand portion of the page and click on it. This will explain the challenge in more details. Please e-mail any questions that you may have to *removed*.

Why does my jeep liberty hit its max spl of 142.7 at 50hz ? Box is tuned to 35 hertz

I have a 15in fi q that I love but i want more bass. Im running 1500 rms and i dont want to change my amp just my subs. Im looking at the sundown sa 12. I would be getting a pair and making another custom ported box. Ya or Nay?

Hey guys I just plugged in my Fi Q 12d2 to my sundown SAX-1200(refurbished by db-r) to test and make sure everything is working properly. I have a Audiocontrol LC2i to signal the sundowns RCA to the speaker level wiring of my factory sub to the factory amp. I'm 90% sure I have all the wiring done correctly. The sundown amp remote on is ran from the LC2i output. The sundown amp light turns on when I turn on the car so I'm pretty sure the GTO on the LC2i is working properly. I wired it parallel testing out low volume with the sub just sitting on its magnet and get no sound/vibration. Ill be in the chat room if you guys want to ask questions so I can give you fastest respons…

I've got a set.. should I still use them for my front stage or sell them? I'd planned on going active with 110w to them.

I am getting back in the game again! I have never done a trunk build before but had a few 150db + systems before so I'm looking for some answers. I have an 05 Nissan Sentra and I want to do a "trunk wall" build. I want to run two 15s and I want to play some nasty lows an move tons of air and be in the mid to high 140s. I'm considering the Dayton UM15-22 in a sealed enclosure around 6.5 cubes on 2-3k. I'm just curious if anyone have any input on these subs for car audio applications! I am interested because they play very low an they prefer sealed enclosures. I'm just wondering how they will perform in a car audio environment!

So I had an old friend stop by and he knew I was a fan of bass, and he hasn't heard my subs yet but offered to show me his. So he told me they were kickers, so I was already not impressed haha. So when I actually listened to these 12in kickers in a prefab ported box on a 300w rockford amp, I was pretty surprised. Ive never heard or seen these specific kicker subs before, and they were much louder then I expected. must be new? Now keep in mind my truck has shitty acoustics, and doesn't seal up as well as newer cars/trucks. It actually almost sounded as loud as the DCONs though. It was close, which really put a damper on my day. Sure he was clipping the helll out of the amp…

I installed my Sundown SAX 1200d got it tuned the way I like it then broke my RCA's inside the amp's input terminals... I hooked my AQ1200d back up(I had some tsunami RCA's I never used) so I have to send my amp back to DB-r to get the RCA terminals fixed.

alright guys so I'm getting my alternator within a month, and getting ready tear apart my ride and redo my whole wiring (to get rid on an alternator wine) and to complete my car with all sky high. anyways, wanted to switch my enclosure to birch wood with the fact that it is lighter than mdf and that natural look, looks a whole lot better the way i have my enclosure right now its tuned to 33hz, subs pointing upward port towards the back, love how it sounds (gets down, windshield flexes) on 3 10's so my other option was to make an enclosure and seal my trunk having subs and port pointing forward, never tried it but i have seen some videos of some enclosures ge…

My alt charges at 14.4 Have a batt bank, and stays above 13v whith hard bass hits. After a while my subs loose "thump" I still have some bass I'll turn the volume down and it comes right back. I have my gain set to 7 at 28 volts well below max output. Brand new T1000-4ad running two P3's.

Was getting a CRAZY buzz/hum.... from the tweeters... thought it was amp.... HU pico..... not sure.... been going for a week after I switched the amps.... Well finally got it nailed to RCAs behind the HU .... BUT .... I need to find a permanent/neat way of creating this ground connection.... What I did was wrap the RCAs in copper but it is sooooo bulky...... what are some ideas? any pics or links to the idea would be greatly appreciated... I got so fcking annoyed that I took out the HU for now as I cannot tolerate the sound at all

In another post you mentioned something about bouncing sound off the windshield is bad. But when I spoke to "a famous sq guy" <--- his name to himself... He said bouncing your tweeters off the front windshield did a bunch of great things. Can u tell me your reasons for it being bad please? Or anyone, I just called him specificly because he mentioned It. (I didn't really listen to his BS when he told me hair tricks are dumb and anything over 1000 watts is a waste, and that subwoofers should only be used 2% of the time during your listening) <---- no subs?! Go listen to an elevator play your favorite songs guy >:-(

Maybe I'm just getting old and bitter. Maybe I'm maturing. Or maybe it's just my depression talking. But I'm almost tired of car audio anymore. Everything is a hassle. Any setup I'd actually want to have in my car would require a major modifications and about two months of installation. Running wire is a pain in the ass. Sound deadening can kiss my ass. Cramming yourself into positions and spaces you never thought possible to install anything is getting old. And you do all this work just to shove some overpriced audio equipment into an acoustic hell hole that will sound worse than even a mediocre bookshelf setup. My god...what the hell have I been thinking the p…

ok this is copied from my sig... its my set-up: 96 Honda Accord ex coupe 2 Infinity Reference 6022si 6.5" front doors 2 kicker SSMB6 6.5" X 9" rear deck 1 FI SSD 12" dual 2 ohm flatwind coil & bp power 1 Hifonics BXi1606D class D amp 1 Dual XIA3145 Class AB 2-Channel amp 1 farah Stinger capacitor 1 run Kicker Hyperflex 4 gauge BIG 3 upgrade stock alternator is about 80 or 90 amps,n i still got a h/o but dont have it in b/c i gotta find out what it does at idle... im about to do another run of 4awg under the hood, but i was wondering if it is better or worst with the cap with my current set-up and then with the h/o alternator, which is 130amps but i think it has to be …